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If I had to pick anything it is that they have a bit of bite to the upper mids ...
I find that most full range drivers bomb out for me because of strident higher frequencies. So I'm looking for any reports on how folk find this driver in regards to 'shout' as I'm quite sensitive to it. There is a rising FR for this driver in the MA datasheet too.
I find that most full range drivers bomb out for me because of strident higher frequencies. So I'm looking for any reports on how folk find this driver in regards to 'shout' as I'm quite sensitive to it. There is a rising FR for this driver in the MA datasheet too.
two MA drivers I used full range which were pretty good high up were the A7.3 and 10P. Still to try the CHS-70, the closest I can get to the pluvia 7.
Wiggle, please turn off the Tapatalk advert on your phone.
dave
Advert? Maybe he's just enthusiastic about both?
Good question though.
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I received a pair of Pluvia Sevens yesterday; they look very nicely made. My question is for anyone who has cut a rebate for these. My circle jig uses 1/16" increments so I'm wondering if 4-13/16" would require too much sanding and if I should go bigger. I recently had to cut two sets of baffles for drivers I'm probably not even going to end up using so I'd like to get these right the first time. Thanks in advance for any help. --Greg
If I'm not mistaken, one of MA's intents with new Pluvia low frame profile and resin formula was to eliminate the need for rebating for flush mounting. I built a quick pair of small vented boxes for these just recently without the rabate, and by hand made circle router jig.
As of yesterday, they had less than 50 hrs breaking in as TV speakers, so,it's probably too soon to seriously assess them.
You could probably forgo the rebate and get he same performance with less fiddly labour, and just to make for an unforced fit I'd allow perhaps the closest imperial increment above the metric conversion of required cut-out (144mm, wasn't it?) for which your router jig is calibrated, and still chamfer the rear side of cut-out as steeply as your bit's bearing will permit.
As of yesterday, they had less than 50 hrs breaking in as TV speakers, so,it's probably too soon to seriously assess them.
You could probably forgo the rebate and get he same performance with less fiddly labour, and just to make for an unforced fit I'd allow perhaps the closest imperial increment above the metric conversion of required cut-out (144mm, wasn't it?) for which your router jig is calibrated, and still chamfer the rear side of cut-out as steeply as your bit's bearing will permit.
Thanks for the reply. It's very tempting but I just love the look of flush mounting, and I can't help thinking it would be especially nice with inverted surrounds allowing for a truly flat profile. At 3mm depth, I could do it in one pass although I'll probably use two. I guess the decision comes down to having 1/32" space around the frame or just running some fine grit sandpaper around the smaller hole. I seem to be a glutton for punishment lately when it comes to getting this stuff perfect so of course right now I'm leaning towards the latter option.
I've had mine running in for a couple of days with a 30hz sine wave at +/- 6mm excursion. Just kidding . First day was just enough juice to barely see the cones move and today was a bit more. Looking forward...
I've had mine running in for a couple of days with a 30hz sine wave at +/- 6mm excursion. Just kidding . First day was just enough juice to barely see the cones move and today was a bit more. Looking forward...
Here's mine, but using the CNC helped a little...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think the drawing published on Madisound's website show outer diameter as 172mm X 4mm deep, internal cut-out at 143.6mm
That's the Pluvia Eleven. I would have tried those but they won't fit in the enclosures I'm currently working on. I think my jig might cut very slightly on the bigger side so I'll try the tighter fit first and feel it out before I cut all the way through. Thanks, everyone.
Nice job, thanks for sharing that. Do you remember the diameter of the recess you used?
My drawing shows a 4.90 in dia x 0.150 in deep rebate, and a thru hole diameter of 3.98 in. I also measured the spare one I made and it was pretty much on as the drawing indicated, so I assume the ones I actually used in the build were too.
Eric
That's the Pluvia Eleven.
yup, my goof - just had them on my mind after the recent week's impromptu build of "break-in / demo boxes"
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/markaudio/PluviaSeven-dims.pdf
It should be noted that (except for its size) that the P7 uses a bigger box than the P11 and will go lower.
dave
It should be noted that (except for its size) that the P7 uses a bigger box than the P11 and will go lower.
dave
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