New Mark Audio Pluvia Seven

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If I had to pick anything it is that they have a bit of bite to the upper mids ...

I find that most full range drivers bomb out for me because of strident higher frequencies. So I'm looking for any reports on how folk find this driver in regards to 'shout' as I'm quite sensitive to it. There is a rising FR for this driver in the MA datasheet too.
 
Pluvia 7 in Derwent (for EL70) enclosures. Used 3/4" Maple plywood. Sounds very good on first listening impression, will get them breaking in and then listen more critically.
 

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I find that most full range drivers bomb out for me because of strident higher frequencies. So I'm looking for any reports on how folk find this driver in regards to 'shout' as I'm quite sensitive to it. There is a rising FR for this driver in the MA datasheet too.



two MA drivers I used full range which were pretty good high up were the A7.3 and 10P. Still to try the CHS-70, the closest I can get to the pluvia 7.
 
I received a pair of Pluvia Sevens yesterday; they look very nicely made. My question is for anyone who has cut a rebate for these. My circle jig uses 1/16" increments so I'm wondering if 4-13/16" would require too much sanding and if I should go bigger. I recently had to cut two sets of baffles for drivers I'm probably not even going to end up using so I'd like to get these right the first time. Thanks in advance for any help. --Greg
 
If I'm not mistaken, one of MA's intents with new Pluvia low frame profile and resin formula was to eliminate the need for rebating for flush mounting. I built a quick pair of small vented boxes for these just recently without the rabate, and by hand made circle router jig.

As of yesterday, they had less than 50 hrs breaking in as TV speakers, so,it's probably too soon to seriously assess them.

You could probably forgo the rebate and get he same performance with less fiddly labour, and just to make for an unforced fit I'd allow perhaps the closest imperial increment above the metric conversion of required cut-out (144mm, wasn't it?) for which your router jig is calibrated, and still chamfer the rear side of cut-out as steeply as your bit's bearing will permit.
 
Thanks for the reply. It's very tempting but I just love the look of flush mounting, and I can't help thinking it would be especially nice with inverted surrounds allowing for a truly flat profile. At 3mm depth, I could do it in one pass although I'll probably use two. I guess the decision comes down to having 1/32" space around the frame or just running some fine grit sandpaper around the smaller hole. I seem to be a glutton for punishment lately when it comes to getting this stuff perfect so of course right now I'm leaning towards the latter option.

I've had mine running in for a couple of days with a 30hz sine wave at +/- 6mm excursion. Just kidding ;). First day was just enough juice to barely see the cones move and today was a bit more. Looking forward...
 
I think the drawing published on Madisound's website show outer diameter as 172mm X 4mm deep, internal cut-out at 143.6mm

That's the Pluvia Eleven. I would have tried those but they won't fit in the enclosures I'm currently working on. I think my jig might cut very slightly on the bigger side so I'll try the tighter fit first and feel it out before I cut all the way through. Thanks, everyone.
 
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