HDS tweeter? The OSMC uses the R2904. What would you prefer instead of the Faital? (Would an AE TD12M have worked?)
Fair enough
Troels kit is about 1400 and you buy the two faital for another 500
There is plus minus 200 depending on the xrossover level from Janzen audio.
The bass is the exact same (Faital) it's like 140 eur each.
500 eur for a mid range driver is a lot, the 3" is a bit odd.
Troels mid range is also a fait, it is also a super good driver, but much more affordable.
The tweeter are both Scanspeak, however Troels is the entry line. However, this is scanspeak, it made in Denmark.
Anyway, prices went up.... I am sure the design would be different If designed in 2023.
Although I do share the concern that the rising cost of the Volt will worsen the competitiveness of this design, I don’t agree that it should be cheap enough for everyone to afford. DIY covers pretty much all performance tiers, I am aware of folks who have cloned Wilson speakers or built active multi-way horn systems costing far more than the OSMC.
The lowest long-term cost in audio is usually buying used equipment from well known brands as diy builds have a very low resale value, and few people stick with the same for life. The true advantage of diy, apart from a sense of achievement, IMO is that we can tailor our solutions more to our space/budget/expectations constraints than is often possible with off the shelf products. But that’s an iterative process, with lots of little expenditures along the way, so one loses track of the true cost of diy.
The lowest long-term cost in audio is usually buying used equipment from well known brands as diy builds have a very low resale value, and few people stick with the same for life. The true advantage of diy, apart from a sense of achievement, IMO is that we can tailor our solutions more to our space/budget/expectations constraints than is often possible with off the shelf products. But that’s an iterative process, with lots of little expenditures along the way, so one loses track of the true cost of diy.
Budget and woodworking level were both determined right from the start and were part of the design targets (see first post of this thread).
We never really put a clear limit on the budget, and we explicitly stated that going higher than $500 per box is totally fine, so there's nothing wrong with spending $2600 as @pfarrel did. But there's nothing wrong if you don't want to spend this kind of money. It just means that the OSMC is not for you.
The are no special woodworking skills needed to make the OSMC enclosure. It's just a simple rectangular box. I built several quick and cheap iterations during the development of the OSMC. My final enclosures were done by a professional woodworker because I wanted them to look as nice as possible.
We never really put a clear limit on the budget, and we explicitly stated that going higher than $500 per box is totally fine, so there's nothing wrong with spending $2600 as @pfarrel did. But there's nothing wrong if you don't want to spend this kind of money. It just means that the OSMC is not for you.
The are no special woodworking skills needed to make the OSMC enclosure. It's just a simple rectangular box. I built several quick and cheap iterations during the development of the OSMC. My final enclosures were done by a professional woodworker because I wanted them to look as nice as possible.
I never looked at this as a competition with other loudspeaker designs. But if you do compare the OSMC to "competitors", you might also consider the fact that not only the Volt (and other parts) got more expensive, but the same happened to most other products out there (i.e., the "competition").
Yes. That was never the idea. If the target would have been to come up with a design at a certain cost limit considered as "affordable for everyone" (say $100), this would have prevented achieving many of the other design targets, and the result would have been VERY different.
Question on ordering of capacitors and inductors to ground in the crossover:
Does order matter? L -> Cap -> ground vs Cap -> L -> ground.
It would be convenient for board layout to change a couple of them.
Thanks
Does order matter? L -> Cap -> ground vs Cap -> L -> ground.
It would be convenient for board layout to change a couple of them.
Thanks
The ones from the midrange (L-M3 -> C-M2 -> GND and L-M4 -> C-M3 -> GND).
Wanting to swap to C-M2 -> L-M3 -> GND and C-M3 -> L-M4 -> GND
Wanting to swap to C-M2 -> L-M3 -> GND and C-M3 -> L-M4 -> GND
Ah, ok, yes, you can swap the positions of C-M2/L-M3 and C-M3/L-M4. You might also consider moving the large foil inductor from the top right in your photo to the top left (and move the purple and blue caps from top left to top right). This would increase the distance to the other inductors a bit, which is always good to reduce cross-coupling.
Looking forward to your next steps!
Looking forward to your next steps!