that’s where it does feel safer to just swap in another drive which is proven working.
interesting what you say about the thermostat in the refrigeration circuit of a combustion engine. And completely agree about the microscopic dimension mattering here.
My intuition is still open to something on the electronic side disturbing the mech. Just because I know there are so many of these possibilities on these old Phillips boards. And also because three years ago I had skipping and it was cured when I replaced these two tantalum capacitors on the Decoder board. But there are no tantalum capacitors on the decoder bord left. That is frustrating, I can say
I am aware of this and I am not suggesting this by chance, you have shown great tenacity and it really deserves that you manage to bring this CD player back to life.Thank you so much! It is a nice way to speak of your collection of your players as your "archive". I will apply this terminology next time a friend mocks me about stacks of old hifi stuff
I admit that speaking about a donor means to accept at least one casualty, which really goes against the grain for me, in trying to re-animate as many of these old machines as possible. But the CDM-0 motor (without knowing if it's the culprit) indeed IS a sealed throwaway item (even though it may last very long before becoming exhausted).
The reward for a great job.
I have a cd100 which will be perfect for this mission, I just need to find it.
Dear @huggygood , thanks so much. That's such a kind offer, it really move me.
Great thread!
Ages ago I did use with good results on a CD104 a small ring whose brand I no longer remember of a self-adhesive non-slipping material to be applied on the central top of an Audio-CD.
As soon as I read the 1st post I thought I would try to build 2 rubber or silicone thin rings to be applied above and/or under the CD seeing (that's, listening) if it does improve the tracking.
Ages ago I did use with good results on a CD104 a small ring whose brand I no longer remember of a self-adhesive non-slipping material to be applied on the central top of an Audio-CD.
As soon as I read the 1st post I thought I would try to build 2 rubber or silicone thin rings to be applied above and/or under the CD seeing (that's, listening) if it does improve the tracking.
So this thread is getting so long now. This was originally I believe about repairing bc of TDA 1541 R2R dac. If so what about buying DAC kit and use your 1541 in it and then using dvd as transport? I see the kits for sale. I hand it to you for all the effort. Seems like mechanical wear to me from everything reported.
Thank you. The problem is not that I can't play CDs. I have somewhat of an "archive" of vintage machinery as well. The problem is that I – we – would like to find the fault in this particular machine, in order to get it going again, but I'd say even more so now simply in order to know what the fault is. It's not great to leave work unfinished. And knowing the cause could enable others to find the same fault more quickly. I think that's very much about what we are doing in this great forum.
The 2nd gen Philips machines are using TDA1540 DACs btw, in stereo pairs. We are not talking about the TDA1541.
– would like to find the fault in this particular machine, in order to get it going again, but I'd say even more so now simply in order to know what the fault is. It's not great to leave work unfinished. And knowing the cause could enable others to find the same fault more quickly. I think that's very much about what we are doing in this great forum.The 2nd gen Philips machines are using TDA1540 DACs btw, in stereo pairs. We are not talking about the TDA1541.
Random thought with you all mentioning those rings and so on.... will the Philips accept two discs together? or is the height of two disc to much to load correctly. Two discs give a lot extra weight and momentum to the spinning disc. It was one of those things mentioned years ago as supposedly giving lower error rate off the disc.
Sorry to hear that.
However the ring I remember was larger, let's say an outer diameter about 3.5 cm with a center hole a little larger than that of the CD itself.
Anyway I would like to be absolutely sure that the CD does not has micrometric movements by slipping onto the spindle so I would fix a second ring even at the bottom of the CD.
In order to get that improvised rubber washer beneath the CD I needed to glue the rubber to the bottom of it, or place it on the spindle and then slip the CD over it. No idea how to do this in the closed cage of the CDM0. I know (as mentioned above) that playing around with the clamp pressure can mitigate skipping, but I did this already and it did not make it go away (It did, when I got the machine three years ago and all sorts of adjustments were out of wack, but I brought those back then). I tend of exclude this track now honestly. Best would be a working drive (and also working boards) to slip into the machine in order to rule stuff out in a modular way, Mooly style
@Mooly I haven't used the CD player for many years, but I remember trying the double disc to listen if the sound improved.
The results on the improvement of sound were non-existent IMO and with some mechanics sometime the two CDs together slipped on each other producing a chilling noise.
One tests everything hoping for a sound improvement...
The results on the improvement of sound were non-existent IMO and with some mechanics sometime the two CDs together slipped on each other producing a chilling noise.
One tests everything hoping for a sound improvement...
Try it didn't cost anything that's why I would have done it. Totally agreed.
Ok. Tried it. Stuck it to the disc bottom. With that silicon washer the player would not read the disc.
If I place it under the CD (in a way that it is between spindle and disk) I change the focus height. If it is under the CD and does not touch the spindle it has no effect apart from changing the weight and the required torque.
I changed the focus height already through the Allen screw under the motor shaft bearing plate (to no avail, see somewhere far above in this thread) and also tried to change focus offset (no results).
PS Just to show that I have not been procrastinating ... I also reflowed-resoldered the connections of the receptor diodes on the swing arm to the flexprint over the weekend. One of the Philips-knowledgeable guys on German forums suggested to do so in a thread there as a cure for skipping that worked a couple of times in his case. No result in my case. But we're clutching straws, aren't we?
I also reflowed-resoldered the connections of the receptor diodes on the swing arm to the flexprint over the weekend. One of the Philips-knowledgeable guys on German forums suggested to do so in a thread there as a cure for skipping that worked a couple of times in his case. No result in my case. But we're clutching straws, aren't we?