2 options here:
the ball has created a cavity and jumps into it sometimes (or vice versa) or the clamp bumps into the holder in case it is too much out of center. In both cases the holder can be moved a bit to the left or right to avoid these issues (bending the metal clamp holder slightly).
the ball has created a cavity and jumps into it sometimes (or vice versa) or the clamp bumps into the holder in case it is too much out of center. In both cases the holder can be moved a bit to the left or right to avoid these issues (bending the metal clamp holder slightly).
@eschenborn How did you make out with the adjustment suggested by Lampie519? I'm working on a Magnavox FD2040SL12, which is the U.S. version of the CD204, and it's acting up in the same way as yours. I was hopeful that a solution had been reached after the help from Mooly and profiguy. . . .
Hi @dbxdx5 ! thanks for asking. the above suggestion you refer to did not help. checking / adjusting the puck actually was one of the first things I had done.
I came to the conclusion that the problem was the CDM-0 drive, and that the motor bearing was probably worn out. the player had seen a lot of use (faded writing were it had been touched often, e.g. the eject key). the CDM-0 motor can not be opened, unlike the motor in the CDM-1, where you can polish/ repair the bearing.
I ended up finding a cheap-ish used CD-204 in good state. it basically works, also sometimes skips, but in a different way – assumedly needing a recap and a service. did not check yet which drive it has, but there has been less visible wear.
I will transfer the PCBs from the non-worker and hopefully have a working unit again. In case this still gives me problems, I'll do a full recap of the original PCBs. will take some time, though... probably a winter season project.
what mechanism does your player have? CDM-0 as well?
I came to the conclusion that the problem was the CDM-0 drive, and that the motor bearing was probably worn out. the player had seen a lot of use (faded writing were it had been touched often, e.g. the eject key). the CDM-0 motor can not be opened, unlike the motor in the CDM-1, where you can polish/ repair the bearing.
I ended up finding a cheap-ish used CD-204 in good state. it basically works, also sometimes skips, but in a different way – assumedly needing a recap and a service. did not check yet which drive it has, but there has been less visible wear.
I will transfer the PCBs from the non-worker and hopefully have a working unit again. In case this still gives me problems, I'll do a full recap of the original PCBs. will take some time, though... probably a winter season project.
what mechanism does your player have? CDM-0 as well?
Curious how you your problem-solving will play out. CDM-1... you are lucky, you can re-work the motor bearing. but who knows, maybe it is another fault altogether. Did you replace all the suspicious caps? There is an orange tantalum cap (looks like a film cap) on the servo board (iirc) that can cause skipping (I am looking at the schematics now to identify it but so far do not find its number). There are the notorious caps on the board under the CDM itself which also might cause skipping.
Yes, all suspect electrolytic caps replaced. Not sure I see how that tantalum would cause the problem. My experience is that their failure mode is shorting, not causing odd circuit misbehavior, but maybe I just haven't seen it yet.
The main issue seems to be with longer discs--anything over 60 minutes is an issue, though I'm still verifying. The spindle motor is also very noisy. I took it apart, cleaned and re-oiled the bearings, but no difference.
The main issue seems to be with longer discs--anything over 60 minutes is an issue, though I'm still verifying. The spindle motor is also very noisy. I took it apart, cleaned and re-oiled the bearings, but no difference.
Something I could use clarity with respect to is how to go about adjusting the height of the spindle motor. Am I correctly interpreting the attached section from the CDM1 service guide to mean that I want to adjust for 0V, or as close to that as possible, while playing a good quality disc (in lieu of the actual Philips test disc)? I ask because I read somewhere else that the goal is to adjust so that the voltage at the test points is the same when the unit is in Stop and Play, which very likely won't be 0V.
@Mooly ?
@Mooly ?
If the skipping occurs at >60 min, it is at the outer edge of the disc. Perhaps the swing arm that holds the laser is not perfectly parallel with the CD. The distance between the lens and the disc varies as the arm moves outward. It is difficult to adjust the parallelism, but you can try to set an average. The deviation of the offset voltage from 0 V (set by the Torx screw) should be equal at an inner track and at an outer track. One will be +, the other -.
Interesting, this is now a third method for adjusting the spindle height. I can try that.
As for the noise, it's the same as described (and recorded) in this thread.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/marantz-cd-73-strange-noise-while-playing.400656/
As for the noise, it's the same as described (and recorded) in this thread.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/marantz-cd-73-strange-noise-while-playing.400656/