hi, yes i'll do on small piece of wood .
do you think it's an heresy to built it in 18mm mdf like your Fast 10f/rs225. there's not the good dimension at my local store (only medium in (6, 10 and 18 mm) and keep the 18mm will be a strong box. Of course i'll keep internal dimension.
(i've aps aeon ( APS AEON - Zikinf ) in my studio for music recording an listenning and they are building like a tank).
after , i think i'll try your amp as i can soldering until smd and i begin to understand electronic schematic. i'd love to try a class A but step by step ...
do you think it's an heresy to built it in 18mm mdf like your Fast 10f/rs225. there's not the good dimension at my local store (only medium in (6, 10 and 18 mm) and keep the 18mm will be a strong box. Of course i'll keep internal dimension.
(i've aps aeon ( APS AEON - Zikinf ) in my studio for music recording an listenning and they are building like a tank).
after , i think i'll try your amp as i can soldering until smd and i begin to understand electronic schematic. i'd love to try a class A but step by step ...
So I forgot... what does FAST stand for? what does WAF stand for? I know both involve a full range driver which is augmented by other drivers .... ???
hi, here the link of the post :
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
hi, yes i'll do on small piece of wood .
do you think it's an heresy to built it in 18mm mdf like your Fast 10f/rs225. there's not the good dimension at my local store (only medium in (6, 10 and 18 mm) and keep the 18mm will be a strong box. Of course i'll keep internal dimension.
(i've aps aeon ( APS AEON - Zikinf ) in my studio for music recording an listenning and they are building like a tank).
after , i think i'll try your amp as i can soldering until smd and i begin to understand electronic schematic. i'd love to try a class A but step by step ...
Yes, 18mm MDF will work. I would still try to make the removable front baffle mounted with the screws like shown though. The use of the thinner 9mm plywood and braced with a frame of hardwood (beech or white oak in my case) has been said to give the LS3/5A type box some of its sound signature. But hard to say how important that is to the overall sound.
Maybe WAFT is a good one as it combines the pun of the WAF but is actually
Woofer Assisted Fullrange Technology. The technology being applied to the system as a while and not one particular driver(s).
Although Fullrange Assisted Woofer Technology (FAWT) could be interesting or funny depending on how you say it.
Woofer Assisted Fullrange Technology. The technology being applied to the system as a while and not one particular driver(s).
Although Fullrange Assisted Woofer Technology (FAWT) could be interesting or funny depending on how you say it.
Hi XRK,
I'm very interested in trying out your design.
Unfortunately the DC130A-8 woofer has run out of stock where I live.
The shielded version DC130AS-8 is available,though.
Could you please take a look at the specsheet?
https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/295-300-dayton-audio-dc130as-8-specifications.pdf
Do you feel it could work out,perhaps with minor tweaks?
To me the FR curves look pretty similar but I'm not very good at spotting the details.
regards,
Sashi
I'm very interested in trying out your design.
Unfortunately the DC130A-8 woofer has run out of stock where I live.
The shielded version DC130AS-8 is available,though.
Could you please take a look at the specsheet?
https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/295-300-dayton-audio-dc130as-8-specifications.pdf
Do you feel it could work out,perhaps with minor tweaks?
To me the FR curves look pretty similar but I'm not very good at spotting the details.
regards,
Sashi
Is it possible to go ported with this design also the shielded woofer a direct drop in?2-way is definitely correct anyway you look at it.
Fs is 57Hz vs 53Hz, Qts is a little higher, sensitivity is within 0.2dB, Yes, the shielded woofer should be close enough. I have not tested it myself but give it a try.
I would not port this speaker. It has plenty of bass for it’s intended purpose and the group delay is kept in check. If you port it, the dynamics and timing of bass vs mids and highs will not be as good. The other way to do this is to put it in a TL as shown in this thread. That will preserve the timing of the group delay.
I would not port this speaker. It has plenty of bass for it’s intended purpose and the group delay is kept in check. If you port it, the dynamics and timing of bass vs mids and highs will not be as good. The other way to do this is to put it in a TL as shown in this thread. That will preserve the timing of the group delay.
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Here you go - you want minimal effort I see.
Crossover Part Numbers from Parts Express (per speaker)
L4 = 5mH 18ga #275-141 qnty 1
L1 = 0.1mH 20ga #257-568 qnty 1
C2 = 4.7uF MKP #255-020 qnty 1
C3A = 10uF MKP #027-114 qnty 1
C3B = 1uF MKP #027-410 qnty 1
R2A, R4 = 12.5ohm #006-12.5 qnty 2
R2B = 1.0ohm #006-027-101 qnty 1
C3 = C3A+C3B
R2 = R2A+R2B
It looks something like this:
Or this if you have exact custom values
Crossover Part Numbers from Parts Express (per speaker)
L4 = 5mH 18ga #275-141 qnty 1
L1 = 0.1mH 20ga #257-568 qnty 1
C2 = 4.7uF MKP #255-020 qnty 1
C3A = 10uF MKP #027-114 qnty 1
C3B = 1uF MKP #027-410 qnty 1
R2A, R4 = 12.5ohm #006-12.5 qnty 2
R2B = 1.0ohm #006-027-101 qnty 1
C3 = C3A+C3B
R2 = R2A+R2B
It looks something like this:
Or this if you have exact custom values
Attachments
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