If mounted on the side, will the angled-out positioning then be a requirement for good imaging? I am concerned about comb filtering since I would likely use 2 FR's than deal with adding a tweeter. (being picky about cosmetics is a pain hehe)
If front mounted, should I put in a low pass on the bottom woofer similar to a .5 setup?
also made an edit concerning binding posts to above post.
If front mounted, should I put in a low pass on the bottom woofer similar to a .5 setup?
also made an edit concerning binding posts to above post.
The firing out versus in is a matter of switching the speakers around so the option is always yours. I think it really depends on how close together they are.
In the original cabinets, I had both front firing in a d'Appolito and the only way to make it tolerable was to lower the XO with the tweeter below what I wanted and throw a big choke on the lower WR. I still was not happy. I wanted a way to get the most out of the drivers without having to filter them to death.
In the original cabinets, I had both front firing in a d'Appolito and the only way to make it tolerable was to lower the XO with the tweeter below what I wanted and throw a big choke on the lower WR. I still was not happy. I wanted a way to get the most out of the drivers without having to filter them to death.
Good to hear the details, thank you.
More details sought:
Stuffing: How much and what focus? (mid range absorbtion or to increase apparent volume)
Speaker terminals: Any problems with coming in the back through both walls and the throat? (with loooong binding posts of course)
Finally, I don't have access to decent (for my taste) no-void ply, just MDF and laminated 1x2 Project pine boards in 16" widths.
I can get bookmatch cut maple, but It is cabinet grade and has voids too large for me. No-void G2S maple-top or something else nice is too expensive for my budget anyways.
MDF= Paint gloss white,
Pine= At least I can stain it, but it likes to warp if not assembled fast and is a pain to cut with the grain
Any major arguments against either of these?
More details sought:
Stuffing: How much and what focus? (mid range absorbtion or to increase apparent volume)
Speaker terminals: Any problems with coming in the back through both walls and the throat? (with loooong binding posts of course)
Finally, I don't have access to decent (for my taste) no-void ply, just MDF and laminated 1x2 Project pine boards in 16" widths.
I can get bookmatch cut maple, but It is cabinet grade and has voids too large for me. No-void G2S maple-top or something else nice is too expensive for my budget anyways.
MDF= Paint gloss white,
Pine= At least I can stain it, but it likes to warp if not assembled fast and is a pain to cut with the grain
Any major arguments against either of these?
planet10 said:
so just to nail this down.
all internal exposed edges are purposefully left with sharp edges as it contributes to the designs functionality in a meaningful way.
The stacked stepped edges in the throat of the waveguide, is that what you refer to as the reflector above?
The transition from straight section to the port of the bell. Do your instincts tell you that a bevel here might improve its function or are you suggesting that you believe that while it may not improve anything, it won't make it worse?
Folding without roundings work, it seems - could it be midrange bouncing back letting the horn work as pessure transmitter only 
I have reasently made a horn with no roundings but only 2-3 foldings, and it seems to work quite well - I do have a suspicion that multiple rounded foldings could be the course of turbulense ..... or is it something else you are talking about
BTW....The BVR .... I think it would of advantage if the openning of the two throats were wider apart from each other
I have reasently made a horn with no roundings but only 2-3 foldings, and it seems to work quite well - I do have a suspicion that multiple rounded foldings could be the course of turbulense ..... or is it something else you are talking aboutBTW....The BVR .... I think it would of advantage if the openning of the two throats were wider apart from each other
The discussion on appropriate speaker building materials that ensued in this thread has been split off into its own thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98834
dave
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98834
dave
This thread seems inactive for a while, but I hope I can get some help. I am about to build the shadow as a full range multi driver system.
I am not using the Extremis, but 4 HiVi A5+ drivers. What I need to know is how do I model the enclosure?
In an earlier post I believe I read that I should treat it as a ported enclosure. OK, using WinISD I modeled two Adire Extremis 6.8 as though it were a ported enclosure. The WINIsd plot shows that in pink. I did two models of the HiVi A5+, the blue is tuned to ~40hz, the yellow is tuned to 34.2Hz. Since I do not know the impact of the flare on the response I have no way to know which would be better.
Here are the specs of the HiVi A5+;
*Power handling: 35 watts RMS/70 watts max *VCdia: 3/4" *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 55-6,500 *Fs: 55 Hz *SPL: 86dB 1W/1m *Vas: .22 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.91 *Qes: .47 *Qts: .44 *Xmax: 3 mm *Dimensions: A: 5-1/8", B: 4-1/4", C: 3-3/4".
I am not using the Extremis, but 4 HiVi A5+ drivers. What I need to know is how do I model the enclosure?
In an earlier post I believe I read that I should treat it as a ported enclosure. OK, using WinISD I modeled two Adire Extremis 6.8 as though it were a ported enclosure. The WINIsd plot shows that in pink. I did two models of the HiVi A5+, the blue is tuned to ~40hz, the yellow is tuned to 34.2Hz. Since I do not know the impact of the flare on the response I have no way to know which would be better.
Here are the specs of the HiVi A5+;
*Power handling: 35 watts RMS/70 watts max *VCdia: 3/4" *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 55-6,500 *Fs: 55 Hz *SPL: 86dB 1W/1m *Vas: .22 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.91 *Qes: .47 *Qts: .44 *Xmax: 3 mm *Dimensions: A: 5-1/8", B: 4-1/4", C: 3-3/4".
Attachments
While waiting for someone to answer, and it is too dark to make sawdust, I decided to look for a pair of driver to put into the shadow that would give it a bit more oomph...
These would probably fit the bill.
In order to make them fit, you might need to add a donut or two to compensate for the depth issue in the push-push configuration. Alternatively you could offset mount them and brace the bejezus out of it.
Paul
These would probably fit the bill.
In order to make them fit, you might need to add a donut or two to compensate for the depth issue in the push-push configuration. Alternatively you could offset mount them and brace the bejezus out of it.
Paul
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