Okay to reply about the Paper and other materials, I love a punchy sound. I haven't had the chance to try many woofers, but apparently metal, plastic or Kevlar woofers can create punchier bass. This is what I have noticed with the few speakers I have heard. (Paradigm Titan V6, B&W CDM1 SE, Sony SS M3, and a few others). The Sony's are great with their paper woofers, but they are sealed so they really require the subwoofer to help bring back that punchy sound. And I find that in my small room, things sound better if I don't have to heavily rely on the subwoofer. Since I like the B&W's so much I wanted to be able recreate their punchy bass because I don't have to use the Subwoofer.
I can post the sims tonight!
No kidding. Here's a slightly better behaved woofer: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-woofers/audax-hm130c0-5.25-carbon-fiber-cone-woofer/
Here's a sim of said woofer in a 9 litre box @55Hz.
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Hmm, I can push my Sony SS M3 to about 30 Watts while sitting next to them for short periods of time. If I am furter in the room in my listening chair or on the bed, I can easily go to 80 Watts on those Sony's. For the B&W CDM1 SE'S I would probably be around 40 Watts to 50 max for room listening, maybe 15Watts for computer listening.
Hmmm, it looks nice, why is the price much lower than the Seas if it is so much better? Btw thanks a lot for simulating that and finding a driver.
I don't see a lot of high end full range drivers in high end speakers except Kef, and I know some people have bad opinions of Kef sound. I considered it but then decided I would pick a safer route with a 2 way. These might be computer speakers but I use them for my Kenwood KP 990 turntable and like to have some good listening sessions from about 3meters away on the bed or 1.5 to 2 meters on the listening chair. I just live with the fact that they don't sound as good when I am directly at the computer. Its also a large desk, about 2.5m wide.
@planet10 @vinylkid58 By curiosity, what are your opinions on the Kartesian Wom145_MS and Wom165_MS? I was highly considering that brand earlier in my build until I got my Xmax issues.
Myth. A lot more to do with the box, execution, and the support kit.
And unrelated: The XO to do the AC is right where it is hardest to get an XO right, and near-field that becomes more of an issue.
dave
Punchy is usually above what a subwoofer does. Are you sure you are not in that groupof members who like too-much bass?
dave
Xmax is a one way figure - usually quoted from memory to where the motor force (BL) drops to below 70%.
In anycase, any small woofer will be power limited when excursion comes into play. That is - there is a "knee" where, above a particular frequency, a driver will be thermally limited (that is - the amount of power the voice coil can dissipate will be limited and LESS than the cone excursion required to produce that SPL).
Below the above "knee" the driver becomes excursion limited. That is power handling goes down as you go down in frequency as excursion is maxed out (and therefore max SPL goes down).
Maximum SPL produced at any particular frequency is a function of Vd. That is Sd * Xmax. It doesn't matter what the driver impedance is, size (given the Sd / * Xmax given), sensitivity, type etc... all are SPL limited by the amount of swept volume.
If you want to go louder, get more of the driver. However, it won't get you lower (bass extension) unless you start using the increased swept volume by having more drivers and have DSP at your disposal.
In anycase, any small woofer will be power limited when excursion comes into play. That is - there is a "knee" where, above a particular frequency, a driver will be thermally limited (that is - the amount of power the voice coil can dissipate will be limited and LESS than the cone excursion required to produce that SPL).
Below the above "knee" the driver becomes excursion limited. That is power handling goes down as you go down in frequency as excursion is maxed out (and therefore max SPL goes down).
Maximum SPL produced at any particular frequency is a function of Vd. That is Sd * Xmax. It doesn't matter what the driver impedance is, size (given the Sd / * Xmax given), sensitivity, type etc... all are SPL limited by the amount of swept volume.
If you want to go louder, get more of the driver. However, it won't get you lower (bass extension) unless you start using the increased swept volume by having more drivers and have DSP at your disposal.
Gotcha, well my box will have a curved baffle and the inside is designed to avoid standing waves pretty well if I understand the teardrop shape properly. It will also be very solid if I trans laminate and I can go as thick as necessary. I will post some of my renders tonight too.
Hmmm, I might have to go for a different tweeter than, I think there are some beryllium dome tweeters that might be in my price range. There might also be some good AMT options, but I heard that ribbon is just a bit better. But honestly it is very hard to figure out what tweeter is the best. I know some brands use AMT in pretty high end offerings, like Wharfedale, and other use ribbon in even more expensive speakers, while dome tweeters can be found all across the range, even in very expensive speakers. I only speak of price because I can't listen to any of these speakers, I live in Regina SK so I think the options are pretty limited. One thing I do like is B&W tweeters mounted above the boxes, I have heard a few, but I didn't find a way to design that with a ribbon.
I'm curious to know how you are measuring the power, and what the SPL's are at these levels?
Please bare in mind I listen for extended periods while working, so don't really crank the volume very often, or feel the need to.
jeff
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If you do the math it makes little difference inside, if the box edges are done right, it does help with a lower diffraction signature.
The walls will need to be something like twice as thick vrs using the materials in the direction intended for their use.
Solid is not something i associate with translam.
For a box this size i would use 15mm quality ply and note that at the frequenceis involved my trapezoids are just as “smooth” as a full-on tear-drop.
This is the shape of one of our favorite computwer speakers.
dave
The guy that swapped his G2s for AMT prefered the latter.
The guy that the AMT came from preferred the G2.
dave
Just going off of the volume knob. My dac is usually around 70%, I tried to account for that in the wattage estimations.
I don't think I am a bass head, I don't like when bass overpowers, I just love when drums come out strong, pink floyd drums for example. More so, I love when the drums sound extremely crispy if the recording allows for it. My sub is a BIC F1 12" so its not exactly crisp, another reason I would like it to come from the speakers. For hip hop or modern music I don't mind using the subwoofer for that bass.
That looks awesome, I will probably still go through with the teardrop tho because I like the look. But I will consider this info about the sound being the same as what you have there and maybe reconsider.If you do the math it makes little difference inside, if the box edges are done right, it does help with a lower diffraction signature.
The walls will need to be something like twice as thick vrs using the materials in the direction intended for their use.
Solid is not something i associate with translam.
For a box this size i would use 15mm quality ply and note that at the frequenceis involved my trapezoids are just as “smooth” as a full-on tear-drop.
This is the shape of one of our favorite computwer speakers.
dave
I do not have a good room to measure in but I have a good mic and interface for it. I have no idea about crossover yet.
Hmm why not? It involves a lot of glue, which is generally stronger than wood if glued properly, and instead of 6 faces glued together, on a horizontal axis, each translam piece is one full piece of wood, not four glued together. On a vertical axis, yes it is a lot of wooden layers glued on top of each other but the glue, as I said, is generally stronger than wood itself. So for example, if you glue two pieces of wood together properly, and put enough pressure on the piece of wood, it will break elsewhere than where it is glued. At least this is what a wood worker once told me when I was worried about a glued wood joint breaking. I figured I could go thinner with translam due to all this.