SEAS driver choice for first build and some xMax problems

The walls will need to be something like twice as thick vrs using the materials in the direction intended for their use.

Solid is not something i associate with translam.
here are some translam examples I have seen
 

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Xmax is a one way figure - usually quoted from memory to where the motor force (BL) drops to below 70%.

In anycase, any small woofer will be power limited when excursion comes into play. That is - there is a "knee" where, above a particular frequency, a driver will be thermally limited (that is - the amount of power the voice coil can dissipate will be limited and LESS than the cone excursion required to produce that SPL).

Below the above "knee" the driver becomes excursion limited. That is power handling goes down as you go down in frequency as excursion is maxed out (and therefore max SPL goes down).

Maximum SPL produced at any particular frequency is a function of Vd. That is Sd * Xmax. It doesn't matter what the driver impedance is, size (given the Sd / * Xmax given), sensitivity, type etc... all are SPL limited by the amount of swept volume.

If you want to go louder, get more of the driver. However, it won't get you lower (bass extension) unless you start using the increased swept volume by having more drivers and have DSP at your disposal.
Okay thanks for that explanation. I think in the end I was just worried about 35 watts being too little wattage while hitting Xmax, but turns out for my applications, 30 watts might be plenty. I think for now, I will just lower wattage if my builds hit Xmax. Do you think 25 watts in the mentioned drivers is too little to be hitting Xmax? Mentioned drivers are Seas U18RNX/P and Seas W15CY-001.
 
@vinylkid58 @planet10

Here is a quick render of the design concept. The woofer on the render is still the original 6.5 AC woofer I had started with. Final design will probably be professionally painted instead of veneer.

1718756330370.png

And here are the measurements as promised :
1718756522604.png

In green we have the Seas Curv 7" with a 650 cubic inch enclosure and in blue it is the Seas Magnesium 5" with a 550 cubic inch enclosure.

Here is the cone excursion for the Magnesium driver with 35W :
1718756722367.png


And here is the cone excursion for the Curv woofer with 35W:
1718756784494.png


For the Magnesium driver I have to go all the way down to 11W to avoid cone excursion at these settings. Also I turned filters off for these graphs. Vents are tuned to whatever WinISD chose, I use butterworth for the preset.

I got the data from louspeaker database, I downloaded the WinISD file for each driver.
 
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Hmm why not? It involves a lot of glue, which is generally stronger than wood

I have seen many crack, not at the glue joint if that is properly done.

Requirement for thiovker walls and difficulty bracing (not actually, i just haven’t seen it done right yet.

Note that in a small oludspeaker and if you have to have 30mm thick walls instead of 15mm the gross volume increases significantly or you loenet volume.

each translam piece is one full piece of wood, not four glued together

And th esides are a zillion pieces of wood not one.

dave
 
The sims. Box volume? Tuning
Tuning is whatever WinISD chose. Its around 40 for both. Any ideas why I am hitting Xmax at 12W on the magnesium drivers?
I have seen many crack, not at the glue joint if that is properly done.
Yes I will have it professionally done with some wood that is intended for the purpose. I saw someone using marine grade wood, it might be interesting. I still have research and consultations to make in this regard.
BTW, what are you planning to drive these with?
I have a C1 pre and a M1 power amp. Kenwood. I will probably upgrade down the line but I am happy with them now.
 
Okay thanks for that explanation. I think in the end I was just worried about 35 watts being too little wattage while hitting Xmax, but turns out for my applications, 30 watts might be plenty. I think for now, I will just lower wattage if my builds hit Xmax. Do you think 25 watts in the mentioned drivers is too little to be hitting Xmax? Mentioned drivers are Seas U18RNX/P and Seas W15CY-001.
your best option is to model this in WinISD or VituixCAD.

As mentioned - any 5" or 6.5" driver will have basically the same max power / SPL constraints. The decision on which "small" woofer comes down to which has better bass extension, better enclosure size (for your goals - be it big or small), best impedance (depending on your amplifier / receiver capability). Potentially best bass distortion performance. Sensitivity really doesn't matter unless you are using an 8w tube amp.

Note: I am ignoring upper frequency behaviour for tweeter matching. Purely focussing on bass performance.
 
It depends of your application. If it is a desktop speaker, you don't play loud in a small room, no problem. You can go to whatever you want.
SEAS magnesium has an unique is a very neutral sound. It could be a good option. The U16 is a cheaper option. Depends on your budget.
Seas improves their drivers over the years, they improve the motors. I find a new W16 is better than a L15 and the best are the latest with titanium voice coil.
The problem with these small surface is power handling if you want to play loud, no problem of xmax but a real feeling of compression of the sound. Put more power, the level of the sound stay the same. A U18 is a better option for this reason in my opinion, more surface less sound compression. But you need at least 20L. In the Seas series I found the magnesium is very neutral but not a vivid sound, for me he best option, cost no object are the latest paper W18NX003, W22NY003.
Hope I made a satisfying answer ...

Thanks for the links, this looks like a very similar build to what I am trying to do, I believe I saw this build a few days ago when I was doing research. I wonder how come I get Xmax issues when people are building very similar builds without an issue...

Do you think its a good option to go ahead with the Seas magnesium woofers? I found them at 199 usd on sale right now. Why do you recommend the U18 instead? Someone told me the Seas Magnesium are old and that there are better cheaper options today, but I personally am not finding any modern better solutions other than potentially the U18 Curv. (But I read a lot that Poly woofers have too much damping so I am hesitant, but since the Seas are woven poly, maybe that is different).
 
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your best option is to model this in WinISD or VituixCAD.

As mentioned - any 5" or 6.5" driver will have basically the same max power / SPL constraints. The decision on which "small" woofer comes down to which has better bass extension, better enclosure size (for your goals - be it big or small), best impedance (depending on your amplifier / receiver capability). Potentially best bass distortion performance. Sensitivity really doesn't matter unless you are using an 8w tube amp.

Note: I am ignoring upper frequency behaviour for tweeter matching. Purely focussing on bass performance.
Thanks Dave, I have this modelled in WinISD and even in my relatively small enclosure I hit Xmax at 12 Watts on the magnesium drivers. What could I be doing wrong? I attached my WinISD graphs a few messages above.
 
Further thoughts. if you are worried about bass power handling, forget porting, get away with a smaller box and build a small subwoofer.
Now we move onto the crossover... what are your plans there and tweeter matching?
I have a 12 inch Sub, my goal is to have bookshelf speakers that sound good without the sub for multiple reasons. I will use the sub occasionally but not all the time. Edit : Oh you mean I should build a sealed enclosure? That was my original goal and I would love to build one but it seems like i would need to spend a lot of money to make a good one with solid bass.
 
It depends of your application. If it is a desktop speaker, you don't play loud in a small room, no problem. You can go to whatever you want.
SEAS magnesium has an unique is a very neutral sound. It could be a good option. The U16 is a cheaper option. Depends on your budget.
Seas improves their drivers over the years, they improve the motors. I find a new W16 is better than a L15 and the best are the latest with titanium voice coil.
The problem with these small surface is power handling if you want to play loud, no problem of xmax but a real feeling of compression of the sound. Put more power, the level of the sound stay the same. A U18 is a better option for this reason in my opinion, more surface less sound compression. But you need at least 20L. In the Seas series I found the magnesium is very neutral but not a vivid sound, for me he best option, cost no object are the latest paper W18NX003, W22NY003.
Hope I made a satisfying answer ...
Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse, il me semble que vous avez un peu d'expérience avec Seas.

The W18 looks amazing, but it is well beyond budget unfortunately. Also a little bit big I guess which leads me on to the next point.
I do not have 20L available, so the U18 might not be a good option. Why can't I use it in a 10L? When calculating in WinISD, it seems to be fine in the 10L box.
 
Now we move onto the crossover... what are your plans there and tweeter matching
Well I have no plans yet, my progression is halted by all my woofers hitting Xmax at low wattage in WinISD.
If I figure out why I hit Xmax at 12W on the 5" Magnesium driver, I will maybe choose that one and have to find a tweeter that can go low enough.
If not I can choose to fit the 7" Curv (woven poly) driver into the small box and in that case, theoretically, I think I can go ahead with the Aurum Cantus G2 ribbon tweeter I had my eyes on. I would try and crossover at 3.5 or 4. I didn't try and make sense of the graphs yet to see what my best crossover would be.