I can't remember what the unloaded voltage was, but you shouldn't have a problem with your transformer. Once current flows there will be voltage drop at the rectifier and inductor, and the voltage out of the transformer will drop too. If you have 80V capacitors at C2 and C4 on the amplifier board and on the PS board, the momentary high voltage at startup will not be a problem.
Just a progress update pic.... Awaiting some pieces used to mount the boards and ....Still need to finish mounting the Pmos/SIT.
Have been reading the build tips closely. In retrospec... If I had....1. Extended rear of cabinet 2" / 2. Added a rear panel with the transformer mounted similarly but to rear / 3. Brought Capacitors structure to rear enclosure. Would have increased build quality even though cabinet depth goes to 20" instead of 18" . Live and learn.
Have been reading the build tips closely. In retrospec... If I had....1. Extended rear of cabinet 2" / 2. Added a rear panel with the transformer mounted similarly but to rear / 3. Brought Capacitors structure to rear enclosure. Would have increased build quality even though cabinet depth goes to 20" instead of 18" . Live and learn.
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I asked the same question about Tokins and ZM claimed that you can use them as shoes if you want 🙂
I live on the west coast of Canada and the humidity is high, so static electricity is not a common occurrence for me. Because of that I don't take any precautions or wear a grounding strap, and so far no problems.
If static electricity is prevalent for you, then it would be prudent to take precautions.
If static electricity is prevalent for you, then it would be prudent to take precautions.
My runners (they refer to themselves as 'mules', claiming exploitation) arrived back home for Christmas bearing cargo - liquid and solid. Among the solid were the boards Ben kindly offered earlier as well as the Bits Of Material to populate his boards. Once the dust had settled after the festivities and the runners had returned to the cold north I built the boards and the next step is to go to the friendly local metal purveyors and scrounge through their 'waste' for chunks of aluminum for temporary radiation duties.
I intend using the 800VA transformer I salvaged from the Krell KST-100 chassis I used to build an M2X back in 2019 Before Covid. Secondaries are around 42VAC on an average day so rails around 54VDC I expect. It's what I have on hand so for now at least... have to prioritise the runners' loads each trip.
So here's a couple of images of where I'm at. Progress may be slower than most as, not only am I having difficulty remembering where I stored the caps from the Krell, but there's also cargo from His Mightiness on the way as well as the All Mighty's lottery amp kit hopefully on the way from it's temporary stop in Florida. It's not all for me (sadly) - the locals say I have not yet attained GB status, I'm merely their db (designated builder). But I'm aspiring to Greedy Boy status....
I intend using the 800VA transformer I salvaged from the Krell KST-100 chassis I used to build an M2X back in 2019 Before Covid. Secondaries are around 42VAC on an average day so rails around 54VDC I expect. It's what I have on hand so for now at least... have to prioritise the runners' loads each trip.
So here's a couple of images of where I'm at. Progress may be slower than most as, not only am I having difficulty remembering where I stored the caps from the Krell, but there's also cargo from His Mightiness on the way as well as the All Mighty's lottery amp kit hopefully on the way from it's temporary stop in Florida. It's not all for me (sadly) - the locals say I have not yet attained GB status, I'm merely their db (designated builder). But I'm aspiring to Greedy Boy status....
#6 - 32 which is 3.51mm
Am using the ceramic pads from Frank Xue that came along with the Inserts and ring terminal.
There is just the slightest amount of slack....that was a Huge help, adding some forgiveness in the line-up.
I will check M4's against the provided insert (shoulder washers) later and post.
Am using the ceramic pads from Frank Xue that came along with the Inserts and ring terminal.
There is just the slightest amount of slack....that was a Huge help, adding some forgiveness in the line-up.
I will check M4's against the provided insert (shoulder washers) later and post.
Vertical mounting is preferred to promote air movement for cooling, as the 3W resistors will get hot. The mosfet and SIT attached to the heat sinks will also dissipate heat into the interior of the chassis. So the interior of the chassis will get hot. Now heat is not good for electronic components so that heat should be removed. The easiest way to do that is to have cold air flow into the chassis from the bottom and have the heat escape out the top of the chassis by natural convection.
So I recommend you provide some ventilation holes or vents in the bottom plate adjacent to the heat sinks and in the area around and under the circuit board, and have ventilation holes or vents in top plate also.
So I recommend you provide some ventilation holes or vents in the bottom plate adjacent to the heat sinks and in the area around and under the circuit board, and have ventilation holes or vents in top plate also.
Still making progress... Just about ready for off board connections to the Devices.
Haven't pulled trigger for vent holes in base, Yet. Entire enclosure top is mesh with the suggested Noctua fan mounted directly above the capacitors. There are openings to the bottom rear. Some airflow will undoubtedly occur, likely better ( more focused) flow would occur with vent use in Ben's suggested locations.
I'm interested in just what the heat will do; as is no fan / fan full on/ fan with temp controller /etc. Also interested to see what type of noise the fan makes with and without the voltage dropper.
The overkill portion of my brain is thinking of using ZenMod's baby sitter by building an attached enclosure that sucks cold air in from a rear vent and forces it out through holes in the baseplate. Possibly that would be most effective and quieter as well......Will see.
Take Care all....and Thanks again Ben for your work and generosity.
Haven't pulled trigger for vent holes in base, Yet. Entire enclosure top is mesh with the suggested Noctua fan mounted directly above the capacitors. There are openings to the bottom rear. Some airflow will undoubtedly occur, likely better ( more focused) flow would occur with vent use in Ben's suggested locations.
I'm interested in just what the heat will do; as is no fan / fan full on/ fan with temp controller /etc. Also interested to see what type of noise the fan makes with and without the voltage dropper.
The overkill portion of my brain is thinking of using ZenMod's baby sitter by building an attached enclosure that sucks cold air in from a rear vent and forces it out through holes in the baseplate. Possibly that would be most effective and quieter as well......Will see.
Take Care all....and Thanks again Ben for your work and generosity.
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You're getting close.
Here is a picture of the cooling holes in the bottom plate of my mono-block.
If you put cooling holes/vents in your chassis, you may not need a cooling fan for the interior. Then it's one less component to worry about, and to power.
If you turn your chassis upside down and drill cooling holes from the bottom side, you don't need to dis-assemble the components that are in place.
Here is a picture of the cooling holes in the bottom plate of my mono-block.
If you put cooling holes/vents in your chassis, you may not need a cooling fan for the interior. Then it's one less component to worry about, and to power.
If you turn your chassis upside down and drill cooling holes from the bottom side, you don't need to dis-assemble the components that are in place.
