SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

No i dont :-( started building Not very Long ago so i am Not Well equipped ...
I suggest you buy at least the E12 range of resistors
I buy 100off for ~£1.80 including tax and postage/packing in E24 range from 10r to 4m7 and a few other values from the easily available metal film, 1% tolerance, 600mW, 100ppm/C tempco
I thought I would give you a link to find that Rapidonline have stopped selling this range !
Farnell do at slightly higher cost.
 
That one would demand half an Ampere to reach 10V and some spare for the regulator to feed itself. If your CCS is set at about 250mA it would limit at 5V. What you want to do is to project for your real load consumption. If you know it will be 100mA at 10V for instance you put 100 Ohm dummy load. That way you not only do the voltage setting but you also know how the sinks will heat up when in the actual duty.

as it happens that is exactly my target load. So I went to a local speaker shop today and got some mox resistors. Hooked 100R up as a test load aaaand ... nothing ;-) I now get 0.7Vdc and the trimpot still has no effect ... really wierd... double checked all part positions, checked for solder bridges, checked the value of R103 and the trimpot, checked the ac in voltage .. nothing... somewhere there has to be a serious flaw in my thoughts :confused:

R101 has a value of 12R for a cc of 300 mA... I used a MOX one and will exchange for a wirewound later... Q103 IDSS is 3,15mA...

andrew: thanks for the advice and the link. That is a really good idea. Will order some in the next days :)
 
SSLV for the BA-3:

i will feed the ba-3 with 24vdc. my transformer has 2x24v secondaries and 100VA. i think that the ba3 consumes ~50ma per channel. I have the minikits from teabag but i have doubts on the other components. What diodes do i have to use? MUR120 or MUR820?

i have 2 electrolitic caps 15000/35v from the F5 build, can i use them on the SSLV?

the question is, does the BA-3 needs a hot-rod version?

thank you
 
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as it happens that is exactly my target load. So I went to a local speaker shop today and got some mox resistors. Hooked 100R up as a test load aaaand ... nothing ;-) I now get 0.7Vdc and the trimpot still has no effect ... really wierd... double checked all part positions, checked for solder bridges, checked the value of R103 and the trimpot, checked the ac in voltage .. nothing... somewhere there has to be a serious flaw in my thoughts :confused:

R101 has a value of 12R for a cc of 300 mA... I used a MOX one and will exchange for a wirewound later... Q103 IDSS is 3,15mA...

andrew: thanks for the advice and the link. That is a really good idea. Will order some in the next days :)

Did you hook all four output wires to the 100R test load as shown in the pdf guide? Also measure the voltage drop across that 12R R101 to find what current the CCS is running. ICCS=R101V/12
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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SSLV for the BA-3:

i will feed the ba-3 with 24vdc. my transformer has 2x24v secondaries and 100VA. i think that the ba3 consumes ~50ma per channel. I have the minikits from teabag but i have doubts on the other components. What diodes do i have to use? MUR120 or MUR820?

i have 2 electrolitic caps 15000/35v from the F5 build, can i use them on the SSLV?

the question is, does the BA-3 needs a hot-rod version?

thank you

I have been running mine with the standard 10R resistors for some months now and am very pleased with the sound.

As Marra said for R101 because he uses it in the same application so he knows. So MUR120 and 4700uF should suffice. Solder them like their barrels not touching the PCB so air can circulate around them.

15000uF sounds overkill and maybe oversize, you could spare them for more current demanding applications in future builds. If you must use them better use TO-220 diodes also not to wear down and break the small ones in the long term with the high inrush current.
 
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Q106 does not conduct. Do you have any spare IRF9530 to replace it? Before doing that see that Q104 shows some Vbe so it works, then power off and see that Q013 or Q105 are not shorted so they don't bias it, confirm by measuring Ohm across their D & S pins.