32v
The feed back resistors around the output are set for 32v which I have been using for two years. It is hot but no failures.
The feed back resistors around the output are set for 32v which I have been using for two years. It is hot but no failures.
Do you have any pre-amps that work particularly well here?
Are Arjen Helders tube pre's on ebay any good?
My meanwell SMPS is set to 32v with no problems. I also run my Bulgin SMPS' at 32v, no problems there, and my Sure boards have the power diodes bypassed. I've also has no problems running them from Li-ion cells, 8 of them in series, each cell is 4.2v fresh of the charger = 33.6v which is pushing it a little but is sounds especially nice from batteries. Li-ion cells spend most of their time around 3.7v which gives ~30v to the Sure board, I have a slow spinning fan also just to keep things cool...
That said, I have a few spare boards in case one does bite the dust...
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Is there any long term reliability issue? Some boards burnt every weeks?That said, I have a few spare boards in case one does bite the dust...
1 bad
I had one die on the first day. All of the others have kept running fine for two years even after hot running mods.
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I had one die on the first day. All of the others have kept running fine for two years even after hot running mods.
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Thanks, I'll have to try it out.used arjen helders tube amp.
works really well to help balance out the "flaws" of class D amps - helps to smooth out the sound a bit and just brings them alive!
Worth testing one out at least IMO
No reliability issues for me, once of my boards died due to overheating but all my other 3 have been fine.
I've just bought a Sure tp2050 board from ebay and acquired a ASUS Xonar DS which has a removable op-amp.
I began thinking that rather than upgrading the op-amp, sticking the output through two blocking capacitors then reduce it with the resistor/gain on the Sure board I should connect the DAC output straight to the TC2000, possibly changing the gain if necessary.
The ASUS DS uses a Wolfson WM8776 DAC
Is this possible and if so what mods were required to do it?
I began thinking that rather than upgrading the op-amp, sticking the output through two blocking capacitors then reduce it with the resistor/gain on the Sure board I should connect the DAC output straight to the TC2000, possibly changing the gain if necessary.
The ASUS DS uses a Wolfson WM8776 DAC
Is this possible and if so what mods were required to do it?
Direct out from dac chip
I run my AKM AK4395 dac chip direct out through caps and using no filters into the 2X100 and the gain stucture is perfect with no attenuation. I end up listening at 70-90% digital volume control for loud listening and the sonics are the best I can get. This is very revealing of the difference between caps so you may want to experiment with a few different ones at the dac and at the amp. 3uf is enough. I like the Dayton foil caps for price peformance. If the Wolfson is too loud with your speakers, you can add a series resistor at the amp board to make a voltage divider in conjunction with the input terminating resistor. Change them both to get the volume you want and keep the total load on the dac to 10-20k R.
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I run my AKM AK4395 dac chip direct out through caps and using no filters into the 2X100 and the gain stucture is perfect with no attenuation. I end up listening at 70-90% digital volume control for loud listening and the sonics are the best I can get. This is very revealing of the difference between caps so you may want to experiment with a few different ones at the dac and at the amp. 3uf is enough. I like the Dayton foil caps for price peformance. If the Wolfson is too loud with your speakers, you can add a series resistor at the amp board to make a voltage divider in conjunction with the input terminating resistor. Change them both to get the volume you want and keep the total load on the dac to 10-20k R.
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Running 6 Ohm loads at higher than 23.5V results in too much current through the TP2050 die. Switching these high currents on and off generates heat that cannot be removed quickly enough, resulting in the failure of the TP2050.
The maximum safe operating spec for the amp is 30V for 8 Ohm and 4 Ohm (paralleled outputs), and 23.5V for 6 Ohm loads. All of these voltages are limited by the SOA of the TP2050. We had several parts in the lab that would operate for a while at 36V into 4 Ohms, but all eventually failed. You really are running at near the limit with a 30V rail, and even at that you better have some robust heat removal.
WIMA's products are most often found in the AC section - input filters, PFC circuits, etc. They are physically larger, due to their construction, and often have voltage ratings far higher than their typical working voltage (by design).
I don't have any information on their use in low-voltage audio applications. My guess is they'll sound no better than any other metal foil cap. They might not be a bad choice for a Zobel, but consider their size.
What are the best caps and PS?
I wonder (without reading through the forum please )
what is the best upgrade for six 6 capacitors on board (330uf 50v) and does the upgrade helps at all in sound difference?
I wish to obtain even better more open and transparent sound with that upgrade.
I have done almost all upgrades.
I also need an advice in relation to power supply. At the momment I have built my own with cca 22.000uf which would you build for normal SS amp.
Is any other type of power supply better e.g. "350W 27V DC 13A Regulated Switching Power Supply" from ebay.
Thanks
I wonder (without reading through the forum please
)what is the best upgrade for six 6 capacitors on board (330uf 50v) and does the upgrade helps at all in sound difference?
I wish to obtain even better more open and transparent sound with that upgrade.
I have done almost all upgrades.
I also need an advice in relation to power supply. At the momment I have built my own with cca 22.000uf which would you build for normal SS amp.
Is any other type of power supply better e.g. "350W 27V DC 13A Regulated Switching Power Supply" from ebay.
Thanks
Replacing each group of 3 capacitors with, say, one 4700uf Panasonic FM for each rail, will definitly help in the bass department. You can choose another brand as long as it's low ESR and same size range. Class D amps are efficient, they don't use much current compared to class A or AB so they don't need very big tank caps. 22000uf would be way overkill with this amp.
The PS you link to look like a Meanwell but could be a fake too. A real Meanwell 27V 351W is about as good as you can get for this amp. connexelectronic.com also has some really good PS for this type of amp, a bit pricer, and a single 27V or 30V has to be made on request, but they have a much lower footprint and said to be even better than Meanwell.
You didn't mention the input caps, but that's the first and best upgrade to do. Something like Dayton Audio 2.2uf would definitly help (other brands are fine too).
The PS you link to look like a Meanwell but could be a fake too. A real Meanwell 27V 351W is about as good as you can get for this amp. connexelectronic.com also has some really good PS for this type of amp, a bit pricer, and a single 27V or 30V has to be made on request, but they have a much lower footprint and said to be even better than Meanwell.
You didn't mention the input caps, but that's the first and best upgrade to do. Something like Dayton Audio 2.2uf would definitly help (other brands are fine too).
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