Ok, Im 60+ now but my first TABAQ i built 2006 with Tangband W4-1320SJF and didn't feel any missing tweeter even then.
But some people hear a lot over there but normaly its just a scream to put an tweeter on top.
My point.
But I dont hear over 12khz anymore so what do I know I missing?
You don't need a tweeter with the W4-1320SJF, which is a much better candidate than that sp-40.
Plus, there might be other people listening to music with you... don't you want them to hear it all ?
W4-1320SJF also dies after 10khz as I I can see as sp-40 also.
And my son, as I have as reference, 20 years don't complain about sounding dull.
But maybe he is already deaf with his Sennheiser M2 that he have on his head all time.
My point is that HF with long time listening get ear fatigue.
Thanks for the tips. I have seen that post on the design pdf. But I was wondering if there's any building plans that have the measurements for each cutouts like CNC ready. I know there's two designs, the original and then the revised with some mod to the port. Is the original what people call the TABAQ large? Designed for 5" drivers?
Did you even look at the post and file that kissabout2002 posted and linked to?
Kinda obvious that the TABAQ Large is NOT the same size as the original, or updated one, if you had at least taken a look at it.
And no, there is no CNC ready file to just print out... nothing that a ruler and a little time wouldn't fix.
W4-1320SJF also dies after 10khz as I I can see as sp-40 also.
And my son, as I have as reference, 20 years don't complain about sounding dull.
But maybe he is already deaf with his Sennheiser M2 that he have on his head all time.
My point is that HF with long time listening get ear fatigue.
I do not have that TB driver, so I can't really measure it, but on paper (from TB) it does reach much higher:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ear fatigue, for me, is often a result of the full range drivers having a rising HF, plus baffle effect.
I have at least 5dBs difference between 500Hz and 15kHz, in a gradually falling response curve.
Adding a BSC filter usually solves that. Or sometimes, a simple notch and aiming the speakers away from the listening position.
But I still retain HF above 10kHz (and yes, I am also limited at 15kHz from my own hearing... not too bad considering the loud concerts I attended when I was younger!)
ok so just give me some time and I will draw for you the cut out of the panels that I did with my Tabaq large with W5-2143, still you should understand very well the sim otherwise you can get stuck in your build if you do not find the size of the wood that I used. In the main time you can find something here #2365 and #2390....all the best
Yes, the TABAQ is a MLTL design.
For 3" using the updated version, I believe the tuning is about 55Hz.
For 4" using the original design, it is a little lower, closer to 50-ish Hz.
I'm posting out of memory for the tuning, and I know that often fails me these days.
I'm sure it s mentioned somewhere in the thread. Maybe a little search could confirm this.
For 3" using the updated version, I believe the tuning is about 55Hz.
For 4" using the original design, it is a little lower, closer to 50-ish Hz.
I'm posting out of memory for the tuning, and I know that often fails me these days.
I'm sure it s mentioned somewhere in the thread. Maybe a little search could confirm this.
thanks for the info..
so there is not much of difference between 3 and 4 inch versions when comes to lower tuning frequency ..
Hi, so here complete plan cutout for Tabaq large for w5-2143, this is my personal project but all panel sizes can be modified as long as respecting the original sim by Bjorn on post #2224...all the best
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Thanks so much for the drawing. Many who are not as savvy like me would definitely benefit from your drawing. I don't have 1 inch plywood but I can adjust according to your drawing.
Let let you know how it goes!
With Dayton PS-95 80 grams is way too much, more like 30-40g is ok to start tuning with. I use material from cheapest Ikea pillows.
Doesn't seem like much, but you'd be surprised.
It also has more "meat" with a 4" driver.
Not saying that the 3" is bass shy.
If you prefer higher reach, go for the 3".
If you prefer a little more lower end, try the 4".
Thanks Kissabout for his work on the cutout plan. I assume there will be people out there like me who only has 16mm (5/8") boards. I have made a variant of Kissabout plan building with only 16mm boards.
So instead of two U shape boards of 24mm, it will be replaced with three 16mm to keep the original 48mm distance. Since board number 2 is thinner by 8mm, the vertical center of the port is pushed back by 8mm to maintain the 127mm in length.
I hope my calculation is correct so that others can benefit from this modded plan for 16mm boards.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Yes you calculation is correct, just try to upload your file again .jpg or .pdf ....thanks
