Thanks for the kind offer! I'm quite curious to see what the Tekton tweeter array does vertically. And to see what they wasted to get horizontally for that matter...
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@zmffna, I haven't used bitumen products. They tend to harden and get brittle over time (we're talking about years and years).
I like the newer butyl, as it looks like that will stay flexible over time. It is the same stuff they use to glue modern car (front) windshields with. And it is available as CLD tiles, like the ones I used.
I like the newer butyl, as it looks like that will stay flexible over time. It is the same stuff they use to glue modern car (front) windshields with. And it is available as CLD tiles, like the ones I used.
Thanks for the kind offer! I'm quite curious to see what the Tekton tweeter array does vertically. And to see what they wasted to get horizontally for that matter...
My pleasure. Admittedly, I am very new to all of this, and I have never measured a pair of loudspeakers. However, I can document a testing and measurement procedure very well. So, if there is a particular methodology that makes sense to measure these that will provide some useful information to you and will help me learn a bit; I am more than happy to give it a go. I'll document the process and results. I'd hate to provide meaningless measurements that may not be what you're looking for.
Any starting points or a thread to read?
Hello Wesayo !
Before I started to build my speakers I looked at your building proses, but stopped after abot 200 + pages, so I never saw any use of damping with butyl.
Did you use this on the back side of the element ?
Do you remember what page or "about" date you was posting it, so I can check it out.
Sincerely
Frode
Ok, thank you for your reply !
Do you think it is worth trying to dampen the elements?
Sincerely
Frode
It might have a positive effect, easiest to "see" on a single driver I suppose. A damped brace to 'hold' the magnets would be another option. I wanted to add some weight to the non moving parts of the drivers. That's why I mounted them in a rigid way to the inner baffle and have that baffle 'floating' between damping layers. I used neoprene first, but butyl rope was much more effective (and measurably so).
That is a good article and I used to use Jeff's spreadsheets. Today though I use VituixCAD which has a very good merger tool for combining nearfield and farfield measurements, as described in Jeff's article
But the real question for we array people is how to do a nearfield measurement on an array. I don't think you can. Instead one can take measurements at multiple points and average them to average out the room.
It was meant as a good primer on semi anechoic measurements for someone who has never measured anything before.
The guide in VituixCad is a better method but considerably more complicated for a first try.
Arrays cannot be measured super nearfield as all the directivity effects will be lost but the Tekton tweeter array would be much easier. 2m outdoors would be ideal, but 1m indoors and gated would likely work too given the frequencies involved.
The guide in VituixCad is a better method but considerably more complicated for a first try.
Arrays cannot be measured super nearfield as all the directivity effects will be lost but the Tekton tweeter array would be much easier. 2m outdoors would be ideal, but 1m indoors and gated would likely work too given the frequencies involved.
@ItsAllInMyHead, I hope the link fluid posted helps you to get started. It would be fun to see measurements of that Tekton tweeter array.
I read through the white paper. Some of it was a bit over my head at this point. As it should, the article also assumes a basic knowledge of the measurement software. I have a bit more reading to do to ensure I get some measurements that are meaningful. My goal is to give it a shot this weekend. I'll document with pictures and clear notations re: how I took the measurements so as not to potentially mislead anyone. Nothing (to me) is worse that an incorrectly obtained quantitative measurement. My hope is that I can do this with only a bit of speaker movement (they weigh quite a bit) and using my current calibrated microphone with REW. I attempted to do the room corrections, and I feel like I got decent results. So I am becoming more familiar with the software.
Thanks again for everyone's thoughts. Looking forward to learning.
Even though we're building up again we still have a long way to go. After the walls an ceiling are all done we'll start restoring our window sills, trying to recapture the original look of the 20's build style.
I believe its going to look great but it takes up a lot of time.
I got a request to change my damping panel/poster of Led Zeppelin. We're thinking of 3 smaller portrait posters side by side.
One of them could be this one:
View attachment 870710
Still looking to find two similar styled posters from Led Zep, The Doors or Pink Floyd etc. Open to suggestions...
I believe its going to look great but it takes up a lot of time.
I got a request to change my damping panel/poster of Led Zeppelin. We're thinking of 3 smaller portrait posters side by side.
One of them could be this one:
View attachment 870710
Still looking to find two similar styled posters from Led Zep, The Doors or Pink Floyd etc. Open to suggestions...
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