Hi X, back in time, during the development of this speaker you wrote about a predecessor with 6 woofers and so on, and you used it via MiniDSP.
Which MiniDSP is recommended for the highest possible sound quality in general (analog only I/O)? Just for the case if I can´t tweak the passive xo
And for other things too.
Or are there other options, f.e. Nelson Pass' 6-24 active xo (however, it's not an equalizer, so I don't know)?
Many thanks!
Which MiniDSP is recommended for the highest possible sound quality in general (analog only I/O)? Just for the case if I can´t tweak the passive xo
And for other things too.
Or are there other options, f.e. Nelson Pass' 6-24 active xo (however, it's not an equalizer, so I don't know)?
Many thanks!
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Will you do a 3-way or an XSD with a wide ranger 2-way?
If a two way, the 2x4HD will work well. If you want more controls, then their Flex will work well. Try to go digital in (USB, optical or SPDIF to avoid the extra analogue to digital conversion.
If you want the 3-way, the Flex Eight will be great and will allow you to add a pair of subs or ambience speakers.
A 3-way could also be done with the 2x4HD for the woofers and mid, and use passive components for the tweeter.
If a two way, the 2x4HD will work well. If you want more controls, then their Flex will work well. Try to go digital in (USB, optical or SPDIF to avoid the extra analogue to digital conversion.
If you want the 3-way, the Flex Eight will be great and will allow you to add a pair of subs or ambience speakers.
A 3-way could also be done with the 2x4HD for the woofers and mid, and use passive components for the tweeter.
I used the very basic 2x4 back then as a 2 way. But there is a way to use a 2x4 as a 3 way and that’s to get two of them. It’s actually less expensive than a 2x8 (back then anyhow).
Those were ADAU-1701 based. They sounded pretty good but of course we know the specs are not the best compared to the higher end DSPs available today like what’s in the “HD” version.
Today, I would go with the ADAU-1452 based DSP and a very good one is the Ev module made by Analog Devices which has analog and SPDIF in and out plus 8 Ch out. Use the free Sigma Studio gui based software - super flexible. It takes a little more work but should be very good.
Those were ADAU-1701 based. They sounded pretty good but of course we know the specs are not the best compared to the higher end DSPs available today like what’s in the “HD” version.
Today, I would go with the ADAU-1452 based DSP and a very good one is the Ev module made by Analog Devices which has analog and SPDIF in and out plus 8 Ch out. Use the free Sigma Studio gui based software - super flexible. It takes a little more work but should be very good.
...-will +wantMany thanks, I will check the options. My only issue is, I have great sources with great sound quality (analog and digital out), so I don't know if I really will it that way
This is a brilliant idea. The cost difference btw 2 and 3-way DSP options is pretty high. A good tweeter will not require lots of expensive parts for a passive crossover.
I think so, the 1462 has more memory. But please check manuals.
https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/user-guides/EVAL-ADAU1452REVBZ-UG-1662.pdf
The 1452 seems like a great option. I take it since has I2S output all the processing is done before the DAC(s) so one could use two or three DACs, the best one on the mids I am sure but maybe all need to be of equal quality, according to budget allowance.
As for the MIni HD for a 2-way or 3-way with passive for mid to tweeter seems a good way to go.
Which is the better option for overall sound quality first, ease of use and value?
I only have a Topping E30 for now and it is pretty decent, maybe use it on the SLOBs and get something better for the top end, I am looking into used D70 and D90s as like AKM DACs. I also like what I have read many views on R2R DACs. I used the best one ever made for car audio back in my short competition days, custom modified Image Dynamics, 20 volt balanced output with 118dB SN and DR which was quite good back then. It was very expensive as were the custom Yamaha analog crossover and EQ's (made for ID) 24 years ago they cost more than my whole home system will cost from dedicated shielded AC lines and Ethernet inputs to speakers, room treatments, etc.....
I will more than likely only use 2-way, full range or passive uppers.
1452 or Mini HD for 8x8 SLOBS with various upper setups tested?
Rick
As for the MIni HD for a 2-way or 3-way with passive for mid to tweeter seems a good way to go.
Which is the better option for overall sound quality first, ease of use and value?
I only have a Topping E30 for now and it is pretty decent, maybe use it on the SLOBs and get something better for the top end, I am looking into used D70 and D90s as like AKM DACs. I also like what I have read many views on R2R DACs. I used the best one ever made for car audio back in my short competition days, custom modified Image Dynamics, 20 volt balanced output with 118dB SN and DR which was quite good back then. It was very expensive as were the custom Yamaha analog crossover and EQ's (made for ID) 24 years ago they cost more than my whole home system will cost from dedicated shielded AC lines and Ethernet inputs to speakers, room treatments, etc.....
I will more than likely only use 2-way, full range or passive uppers.
1452 or Mini HD for 8x8 SLOBS with various upper setups tested?
Rick
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Or maybe the holiday break and trying to shed the extra weight from all the food and drinks?
Myself, I just cut my living room down to 12' x 12' square, so the XSD might not work for me after all... Was really looking forward to build it.
I just might one day and give it to a friend.
on the happy note, I just expanded my work/music room to about the same dimensions...
Myself, I just cut my living room down to 12' x 12' square, so the XSD might not work for me after all... Was really looking forward to build it.
I just might one day and give it to a friend.
on the happy note, I just expanded my work/music room to about the same dimensions...
Too cold in Minnesota right now, I would love an insulated garage. I can only stand working out there for an hour or so before I give up. Things are very close though, wings are built, just need to fill and sand a couple nicks, line them up and mark holes for mounting, then cut a small piece for the back and inlay a little binding post plate. Then I can paint.
Yeah, sadly, no chance to get it, so project stopped/postponed.
Now I'm working on my own OB construction, it is very exciting and educational.
I'm also waiting on the PRV midrange driver , but I'm not in a hurry either . I only finished the 2 bass units so far and pre-cut the other MDF parts .
The good thing for waiting so far is the fact that I had the opportunity to get my hands on some cheap colored MDF sheets (black, red and blue) .
Either I like the box in raw colored MDF finish or I can do a paint job/veneering later .
The good thing for waiting so far is the fact that I had the opportunity to get my hands on some cheap colored MDF sheets (black, red and blue) .
Either I like the box in raw colored MDF finish or I can do a paint job/veneering later .
My Gedlee Summa story:
I flew out to RMAF to audition the Summa and meet Geddes. Hung out in the exhibition room to ask him a zillion audio questions.
Later, I realized I was hoarse, having a hard time speaking.
What had happened is that the Summas are deceptively loud, due to the lack of HOMs and the ridiculous power handling. (The midbass in the Summa handles something like a thousand watts.)
Ever since that day, that's become a bit of a litmus test for a speaker, for me. Not just "does it play loud", but "when I'm playing it loud do I feel the need to turn it down?"
I don't get a lot of use out of my Yamaha DXR12s any longer, they've been banished to a loft in my house that nearly gets no use. But it's one of the reasons that I haven't sold them, they do that thing very well.