More info on XSD flatpacks. Price reduction now to $600/pair for birch faced Tru-Ply with MDF woofer array box. Shipping via UPS and was $115 for cost from Texas to Virginia to give you an idea.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsd-speaker-flatpack-gb.397149/post-7387673
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsd-speaker-flatpack-gb.397149/post-7387673
DAMN I so much want to get busy building my 8x8" version but only have the 8" drivers so far, got to spend all my spare coins on our full time all out RV remodel while the weather and no current CA wildfires are burning. Speaking of which, I just burned my first Shou Sugi Ban siding piece today, rather easy and looks beautiful.
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The larger diameter equates to a lower upper bandwidth of the woofers due to 1/4 wave cancellation. As I recall, 6.5in is 470Hz, 8in is 350Hz, so 10in is will be about 300Hz. So you have to adjust the XO frequency. This changes the impact of mid bass punch and asks the mid driver to do more work.
That sounds like it upends the whole design work put into this project, no? For me this isnt exactly an inexpensive project, even DIY.
I am building as designed in order to take advantage of all the design work that went into this. Drivers selected, so their natural roll offs match the
roll off of drivers, what phase is doing at these crossover points etc.
I suppose if one wants to modify this project, the bass end would be the place to do it normally, but I didnt like the sound of X's comment about it making the mid driver work harder. That tells me it is outside the design parameters of the project? Usually means more distortion, in that carefully designed mid...not to mention the delivery difficulty we were having with it! lol.
I dont have the equipment or knowhow to design, let alone redesign something as complex as this projects crossover, others here do. That said, to what end? The existing design has the equivalent of 2 15" drivers per side as is, right?
Can not wait to get this built!
Russellc
I am building as designed in order to take advantage of all the design work that went into this. Drivers selected, so their natural roll offs match the
roll off of drivers, what phase is doing at these crossover points etc.
I suppose if one wants to modify this project, the bass end would be the place to do it normally, but I didnt like the sound of X's comment about it making the mid driver work harder. That tells me it is outside the design parameters of the project? Usually means more distortion, in that carefully designed mid...not to mention the delivery difficulty we were having with it! lol.
I dont have the equipment or knowhow to design, let alone redesign something as complex as this projects crossover, others here do. That said, to what end? The existing design has the equivalent of 2 15" drivers per side as is, right?
Can not wait to get this built!
Russellc
Well said Rusellc, but this is DIY and if people want to take a crack at their own crossover, that is cool. But I would suggest building the baseline design to hear what it sounds like as intended.
I just spent almost an hour in the sun on my front steps (don't want to make all that dust in the house) enlarging the woofer cutout holes by a couple mm with a Dremel tool and sanding wheel. Not too hard but exactly the reason I build a verification unit from the flatpack to catch these sorts of things.
Ready to glue the woofer array box to the baffle and base now with PL Premium polyurethane glue that will fill gaps and voids.
I just spent almost an hour in the sun on my front steps (don't want to make all that dust in the house) enlarging the woofer cutout holes by a couple mm with a Dremel tool and sanding wheel. Not too hard but exactly the reason I build a verification unit from the flatpack to catch these sorts of things.
Ready to glue the woofer array box to the baffle and base now with PL Premium polyurethane glue that will fill gaps and voids.
I wish I could have built mine myself, but wood working skills are not my best side! I want to get going so bad its ridiculous! How are they breaking in?
Russellc
I would have paid the premium to have them up and running already! Never been this worked up over speakers in a while!
Russellc
I am behind on assembly. Need to glue woofer box to baffle and base still - I think I need to keep alignment with some screws so stuff doesn’t shift when clamped.
Progress finally. Glue applied and now waiting to set. I had an old unopened tube of PL Premium 8x. It was probably expired because very viscous and took all my strength to squeeze out of the applicator gun. OTOH, the stuff doesn’t run and fill big gaps well. It’s very humid here in DC area so this should cure easily without application of external water mist.
Let’s wait a day and see what it looks like and how strong it is.
Let’s wait a day and see what it looks like and how strong it is.
Please let me know if you are interested in the GB for the speaker flatpack. $600 a set for precision CNC birch veneer poplar plywood with MDF woofer box.
You can signup in the interest list in the GB thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsd-speaker-flatpack-gb.397149/page-3
You can signup in the interest list in the GB thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsd-speaker-flatpack-gb.397149/page-3
Woofer box and baffle/base all glued up now. Parts Express just provided a new data sheet for the GRS 6PR-8 woofer that shows the cutout needs to be 147mm dia not 5.625in (143mm) as shown in their text description of the driver.
No wonder why the holes were tight and had to be enlarged. Sheet shows TS parameters and frequency response. This is nice and shows the broad and fairly smooth response. Since we use the slot to force the low pass falloff at 470Hz, the breakup peak near 3kHz is not an issue at all.
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/GRS Spec Sheets/292-426--grs-6pr-8-spec-sheet.pdf