TPA3116D2 Amp

If they're paying that much attention to this thread then is annoying that they haven't shrunk the board at least to be less than 66mm wide yet so that it can be used in many of the most popular portable audio designs which have an electronics compartment limited by the width of a standard 7Ah SLA, ie. 66mm. Even better if it was 60x100mm so that it'd fit a typically used Hammond 1590N1 case (or replica).

Perhaps contact yuan-jing directly outline it all for them and the business they could get from it. Maybe worth trying.
 

i cannot see the link.
for me this link works:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Amplifier-bo...mplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item2585ad16bf

i see three things on the board:

1. i don´t see anything in the bottom left corner.

2. more smd components for output filter

3. no volume control

considering the price, to me (as a noob), the red yj stereo board still seems the best choice.
 
I can't see that board but if there's SMD components in the output filter and no volume control I'd consider that a very big step in the right direction.

ok.
i understand the benefits of not having a volume control poti.

but why are smd parts better?
i thought big mkp capacitors would be nice.

too bad you cannot see the board.
the bottom left corner looks photoshopped.
 
Board layout and having the output as close as possible to the chip is, if not as important then close to, as important as the components themselves. The exception being the only series component the inductor itself. Nothing wrong with using ceramic capacitors as long as they are properly bypassed and the voltage is at least 4x the maximum voltage they will see, ie. minimum 100V type here. Typically that would be multilayer types.
 
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Here are all of the currently available TPA3116 based boards that I'm aware of. Did I miss any?
 

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How does this amp compare to the TDA7297 Class AB amp?

Went back and forth a few times:

TDA7297 ROCKIN'.jpg

And they have a lot of the same components: Pan FC 2200uf/25V ps, Silmic II input coupling caps, step atten vol ...

7297 3116 same comp.jpg

Hmmmm, both sound very good but if I had to say the 3116 has more 'dynamics' and the 7297 had more 'sound stage.'

PS In a peculiar system: alpha 8 mids, 4 ohm tweet, and 15" w 10mH ! On each side :0
 
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Went back and forth a few times:

View attachment 384838

And they have a lot of the same components: Pan FC 2200uf/25V ps, Silmic II input coupling caps, step atten vol ...

View attachment 384837

Hmmmm, both sound very good but if I had to say the 3116 has more 'dynamics' and the 7297 had more 'sound stage.'

PS In a peculiar system: alpha 8 mids, 4 ohm tweet, and 15" w 10mH ! On each side :0

Why are you using Silmics for coupling? You only need 1uf or so. Silmics are going to get in the way of the sound quality (just my opinion). The PS caps should be Silmics if anything or better yet Nichicon Muse. Panasonic FC from my experience sound kind of flat with these chips. Again, just my opinion.
 
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For the last few years i have been listening to my amp3 from 41hz audio with alps volume pot and obligato input coppercaps. After a lot of reading i have ordered the 2.0 tpa3116 board. The last two weeks i have been listening to the 3116. I am rather disappointed. The high notes of a piano for example don't sound like a real piano at all. If the tpa3116d2 is as good or better than the tripath of the amp3, then the difference is in the volume pot, obligato's or the output filter. So i have two questions. Firstly, I see that the input of the 3116 has two caps per channel. Does this mean i have to use two obligato's per channel? Or should i use one? Secondly, I understand from the TI description that the 3116 is designed fundamentally different from normal class d amps. So filterless use is acceptable. I would like to try the alps pot, obligato's caps and filterless option. But i am unsure if that’s advisable.
 
The "thunderdome" pics really gave me size perspective, they're much smaller than I tougth. I was expecting something similar to Sure's TK2050 boards, but these are quite small.

The green mono board seems very nice. Circuit aside, the green connectors are much better. The blue ones used by YJ are very flinsy, cannot hold medium sized gauge wire and most likely I have some kind of twisted hate for it. The only bad thing is the price (yeah, I'm being cheap here), but the tradicional two-channel can be bought by around 40% cheaper. Well, waiting for more pics and comments before buying a pair.

Virpz, bom ver outro brasileiro aqui. Qualquer coisa deixa um contato por aí.
 
Does everything need to be modified?

I have the red board marked as "2.0" on post #717.

I see NOTHING wrong with the highs or anything else in the frequency spectrum.
And I find NO problem with the volume pot either.


I think some of you guys are falling victim to the camp of audio people who think everything MUST be modified. Of course this is DIY Audio Forum so that might just be de rigueur?

And of course it naturally follows that you start ripping apart stuff before you give it a good listen, and try various interconnects, or preamps (or passives, or NONE at all) with your amps.

Oh, well, do as you wish but I am very happy with my $18 tpa3116d2 and also with my $6 tpa7297 amp (so-called Lunch Money Amp that I started a different thread on).

I make these comments based upon recommendations I got regarding a Jerry's Amp....OMG if you change out the two filter caps.........the thing would be revolutionized!! Well, I did change out the filter caps and in fact increase the capacitance and guess what? I noticed no difference. It sounded really nice before, and really nice after. The only thing I did was invest money and time on a perfectly good board and so I guess I should have had the "Proud Poppa" syndrome and declared the amp "better".

The psychologists would have a field day with audio people.

Must we assume that since something is inexpensive it HAS to be modified?

Mark
 
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