If the DAC part turns out to be up to snuff this could be a great way to build a DAC with no opamps in the output stage
I also own all-digital DDX320 2.1 amp from Hifimediy and it has less pleasing sound than UCD180 or red boards to my ears. Very thin, dry and precise (not exactly lacking on bass but UCD has more meat) with light music like jazz trio but becomes messy on more complex music. This could depend on PS, I know, but same PS works fine with analog amps. Did not try any full-digital TI chips yet, that could be interesting.
Speaking of direct output DACs I'm going to change my TE7022/ES9023 DAC which is great to XMOS/PCM5102 which said to be even better as I happy with amp section for now.
There is a large area for expirementing with TPA3116 left as modulation frequency can be pin-programmed from default 400 kHz up to 1.2 mHz. There are no specs for different frequencies given in datasheet and this option is targeted to EMI issues solely. But we have already learned that "sound quality" is not directly tied to THD chart so it could make sense to try.
Regarding mods - parts quality is a serios issue as there is no easy way to check say SMD parts manufacturer. Also most people lacking proper tools to measure as difference is really subtle in terms of numbers (but could have great impact on SQ). All I could say Nichicon caps used on the boards are good enough for the application but only if they are genuine and will not degrade after year of work (placing 25V rated caps on 24V rail is not quite a good idea though). So if I finally decide to go for this amp in main system I will definitely look for "more serious" manufacturer.
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Before you hand off your ESS DAC it might well be worth experimenting with a handful of high value ceramics across the top of the chip on the main supply rails. Since it has an opamp-based output and has an on-chip charge pump for the negative rail I reckon there could be a benefit from beefing up (i.e. lowering) the HF impedance of the supply.
OK I've had it in my system for for a bit (recap, doing HF duties on a miniDSP based active system driving a HF144 compression driver crossing over at 600hz) , then I switched to a Class A valve amp someone loaned me.. sorry but the difference was immediate and obvious.. the (admittedly much more pricy and power hungry) valve amp noticeably better. Then back to my Hifimediy T2 (better coupling caps and volume control removed) and that was a step up as well, close but not as good as the valve amp. The tpa3116 just a bit thinner sounding, and this is with frequency response matched.
Still I've ordered another identical board, so I can play with replacing parts and compare them side by side --- and use the unmodded board for a picnic boombox amp
.. I've also got the TDA7297 on its way to have a play... though after the experience with the Class A amp I might take a look at those JLH 1969 Class A kits as well
After having removed the volume pot, I'd like to evaluate replacing the input caps on my TPA316 stereo board, advices welcome
The more specific you are about your speakers incl. impedance, etc. the more helpful advice will be.
Hi wushuliu,
You will find a description on my blog :
Construction d'enceintes "Nomex 164" - Le blog de pguerin
You will find a description on my blog :
Construction d'enceintes "Nomex 164" - Le blog de pguerin
Okay, I just got the TPA3116 in the mail from China, and am blown away at this little bugger. It sounds better than anything else I own: Marantz 2220B, Kenwood Basic M1/C2, Marantz PM5004, and Topping TP-20 mkii. How is this possible? It is more transparent, quicker, and has better imaging by far. All my other amps sound smeared in comparison. And I am only using a 12v regulated PS right now? What is this going to sound like at 24v?
Question: I want to get this PS (as people have recommended); is there any problem with housing this in the same chassis as the TPA3116? I will use a nice wooden humidor:
Amico AC 110/220V DC 24V 5A 120W Switching Power Supply Adapter for LED Strip Light: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Question: I want to get this PS (as people have recommended); is there any problem with housing this in the same chassis as the TPA3116? I will use a nice wooden humidor:
Amico AC 110/220V DC 24V 5A 120W Switching Power Supply Adapter for LED Strip Light: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Doc J:
Glad to hear it sounds good to you. I had a similar reaction when I powered mine up for the first time. According to the TI spec sheet, a higher voltage has less THD (in addition to giving you more power capacity). It should not be a problem to mou t both devices in same box but I have not personally done so.
Glad to hear it sounds good to you. I had a similar reaction when I powered mine up for the first time. According to the TI spec sheet, a higher voltage has less THD (in addition to giving you more power capacity). It should not be a problem to mou t both devices in same box but I have not personally done so.
Lower THD does not mean better sound quality though. The TPA311x performs best around 21V supply voltage, IMO. Also note that it sounds better in 1SPW modulation mode instead of the normally used BD modulation mode even if that gives a slightly higher THD but it generally dictates a ferrite bead filter to be used so it's a different amp entirely than the YJ modules.
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I found that to be true in my listening tests too. I run all of mine between 20.5 and 22V.
I have tried the tpa3116 with an alps pot. Listened to it for a day, and it sounds a bit better. I also tried the amp without pot meter ( volume adjustment by usbdac xmos/pcm5102 ) That clearly is better. ( also my old amp3 sounds better this way ) Not there yet, but getting better. Will adjust the voltage of the meanwell smps to 21 Volt and try better caps next.
I have been really enjoying my little 2.0 YJ board. It's running a pair of EL70 full-range drivers and is being fed by an AirportExpess. One issue I have had is that the board has a strong turn-on pop. It only happens when the volume is up. If it's turned down there's no pop.
Any thoughts?
Kyle
Any thoughts?
Kyle
If someone is thinking to experimenting upper limit voltage, pay attention, because the caps on the YuanJing boards have low rated Voltage (25V).
I was just wondering this very thing. Do you think I could use a preamp with the TPA3116? I need more inputs and was thinking about using a switching box, but a preamp would be allow more inputs and other options, if that would work. Or, do I have to have a voltage divider before the inputs on the TPA3116? I am new to this diy stuff, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, Saturnus
Would you mind clarify your statement:
"Lower THD does not mean better sound quality though"
Do you mean THD has no effect on sound quality?
Also, when you said "The TPA311x performs best around 21V supply voltage, IMO", is it based on your personal perception (subjective hearing) or some kind of objective measurements?
Since you are more knowledgeable with class D amps than a lot us here, your opinion carries "more weight". For newbie like me, I just want to make sure I understand what exactly your point is and not quote you out of context in the future. Thanks!
Regards,