Hi X,
how thick is your silicone insulation under the chip-heatsink and what's the W/mK ratio of it? Using 10 mm spacers I would get a gap between chassis and heatsink thicker than my Keratherm sheet, so the plan is now deleted. The height of the heatsink with the chip is 9.5 mm so I think I need a thicker insulation, about 0.6-0.8 mm. I could get a set of 20x67 mm silicone thermally conductive sheets for cpu etc. with a thickness of 0.5-1-1.5 mm - would it be okay?
Thanks for any hint.
how thick is your silicone insulation under the chip-heatsink and what's the W/mK ratio of it? Using 10 mm spacers I would get a gap between chassis and heatsink thicker than my Keratherm sheet, so the plan is now deleted. The height of the heatsink with the chip is 9.5 mm so I think I need a thicker insulation, about 0.6-0.8 mm. I could get a set of 20x67 mm silicone thermally conductive sheets for cpu etc. with a thickness of 0.5-1-1.5 mm - would it be okay?
Thanks for any hint.
Last edited:
🖖
I used 1mm thick blue silicone sheets for GPU coolers. It can’t be ceramic because there needs to be compliance to allow the stack up height to float a bit.
Something like this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOzc2Qg
That chassis of yours is looking really nice. The layout looks very familiar!
Something like this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOzc2Qg
That chassis of yours is looking really nice. The layout looks very familiar!
I purchased a Pesante 2U chassis and a friend helped me in drilling out the holes on the front and rear panels. Per X's recommendation, I mounted the amplifier on a 1/4 inch thick Aluminum sheet and bolted that down to the Pesante's base plate. Now that most of the mechanical work is complete, I have to wire up everything.
Yes, I think too that I will enjoy it
glad to read you like it that much!The missing parts of the chassis (two-piece front plate, cover) will arrive tomorrow, so maybe I can finish it this weekend, I'm really looking for it.
Yesterday I hooked up the AC mains wiring (IEC inlet - fuse holder - mains switch - psu connector) with an 11 awg Elecaudio OFC wire with silicone insulation. Surprisingly no issues with this thick wire in the board connector (picture will follow).
Hi X,
I had some confusion until I read (again) the instructions for the SMPS.
Obviously, my SMPS has a slightly different configuration without DC-Error connector for an led (yellow circle in the picture of your amp, and I think it´s rather a PSU error connector) - instead there is an led on my SMPS board, so I can´t (?) use a PSU error led on the front panel (too bad that the front panel is already finished).
The DCER connector (red circle) of the SMPS is a trigger input where it takes a signal from the amp in case of a critical error of the amp and the SMPS goes in PROTECT mode - in your case this connector is not used (?).
Any idea how I can display the PSU error on the front panel (I know, with optical fiber from the led on the board)?
I had some confusion until I read (again) the instructions for the SMPS.
Obviously, my SMPS has a slightly different configuration without DC-Error connector for an led (yellow circle in the picture of your amp, and I think it´s rather a PSU error connector) - instead there is an led on my SMPS board, so I can´t (?) use a PSU error led on the front panel (too bad that the front panel is already finished).
The DCER connector (red circle) of the SMPS is a trigger input where it takes a signal from the amp in case of a critical error of the amp and the SMPS goes in PROTECT mode - in your case this connector is not used (?).
Any idea how I can display the PSU error on the front panel (I know, with optical fiber from the led on the board
)?