Nice work! Just one small thing – I noticed that you created this document almost as a DIY guide but omitted the 'cabinet' measurements. Could be useful to those hoping to follow your design.
Hello all. I'm using full ranges, but am filtering out the bass 4th order active and having other drivers to the work. There's even less pressure in each sealed cabinet since they are side firing and out of phase.
I've read that Mark Audio recommends up to 800 hours for these to be fully broke in.
Any ideas how long this would be with the absence of below 175 hertz or so bass in them?
I did this to listen at normal volumes, without awaiting break-in, but now prefer distributed OB bass with the previous 12" 8.5mm X-Max full ranger pair to anything else I've used in this room.
As an aside, does a satellite driver ever really break in without stretching the suspension?
I've read that Mark Audio recommends up to 800 hours for these to be fully broke in.
Any ideas how long this would be with the absence of below 175 hertz or so bass in them?
I did this to listen at normal volumes, without awaiting break-in, but now prefer distributed OB bass with the previous 12" 8.5mm X-Max full ranger pair to anything else I've used in this room.
As an aside, does a satellite driver ever really break in without stretching the suspension?
With 2 drivers in a sealed box wired so that they are acoustically out of phase you should get next to no bass.
So i suspect you meant someting else.
dave
Klim, I couldn’t tell the difference either, so I had to double on your joke 🙂
Men universe 😀
Perry, excellent work. Congrats and thanks for the documentation.
George
I meant to ask if using other drivers to supply the bass would mean the suspensions don't get broke in with larger excursions.
Sorry if that was unclear.
Depends on which MArk Audio driver you are talking about. The A10.3 and A7p need the most IME.
The new MS drivers only 10-20 hrs. ( no spider to break-in).
dave
The new MS drivers only 10-20 hrs. ( no spider to break-in).
dave
Thanks for responding. Without the active bass removal there is some bass even in out of phase mode. The inboard sides are older A12P, and for closer sidewall limited reflections, older A12PW.
I won't be physically fully recovering from an accident, and wanted an unusual as well as simple build to keep at it. In my case, this meant removing some boxy resonances, while not bracing very much.
I've tried augmenting the bass from unfiltered satellites, but I find it much more natural using a crossover. I have a second order line level from an old old M&K system, and may give this a try with a 4th order sub plate amp, since the LP1-S offers no sub filtering.
I won't be physically fully recovering from an accident, and wanted an unusual as well as simple build to keep at it. In my case, this meant removing some boxy resonances, while not bracing very much.
I've tried augmenting the bass from unfiltered satellites, but I find it much more natural using a crossover. I have a second order line level from an old old M&K system, and may give this a try with a 4th order sub plate amp, since the LP1-S offers no sub filtering.
I'm not sure if this is the best thread to post this query but it is worth a shot; does anyone know anything about these OBs? Thanks
The midwoofers look like IPL acoustics, the ones used in their S3MTL. Long discontinued, the Wayback machine is your friend from the past.
Simon
Simon
Those were sweet drivers in the IPL transmission lines.
Good luck, hope they show you some magic. Nice build at the least.
Good luck, hope they show you some magic. Nice build at the least.
Agreed, likely to be IPL bass/mid drivers. If so, the cone edge has a small rim on the rear to reduce cone break up. I recall Ivan Leslie of IPL saying that the chassis was a 'B&W reference' type. The rubber surround developed minor cracks after 4-5 years on both my pairs where it had been attached to the cone.
I have a feeling those IPL units had quite high voice coil inductance and some audible intermodulation distortion at higher than moderate listening levels. If they are wired in parallel here that'll help.
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Ivan (IPL) typically uses HiVi F6 6-1/2" Bass/Midrange - I built one of his transmission lines based on this that got me into the whole DIY audio thing. HiVi is a great cheap driver, but doesn't hold up against the current cream of the crop (nor should it be expected to at circa £50 a unit).
The Hivis are the area after his own oem alu midbasses. The S3mtl is what got me started in the diy-thing as well. Still have good memories, especially from their articulate sub-bass.
Yes, it is an IPL driver with the rim on the inside edge of the cone. Both midrange units are wired in parallel and sound quite good after trying them out for 30 minutes. I will open the crossover box tomorrow to see what is inside, apparently, these OBs were designed in Oz. The drivers aren't cheap, they look well built and back in the day they were more expensive than Audax HM series! Surrounds don't have any cracks but they look like it has been repaired.
SEAS DRIVE UNITS
SEAS DRIVE UNITS