Question to Nordo: I forgot to ask whether your amp/receiver will be comfortable driving nominal 4 ohm speakers? The Classix 2.5s and Bromo are 4 and 5 ohm nominal respectively. A valve amp will probably not like that much, any modern solid state one should be fine.
And a suggestion also: before you fill in the order forms, take a deep breath and wait at least a week or so. There are many options out there, including the XRK 'FAST' above, which could work for you. And you would most likely be happy with most if not all of the informed choices.
Don't just take one persons' suggestion (e.g. mine!) as everyone's music and listening tastes are different and I'm only commenting on my experience. It's great that the various options suggested have had many builds and good reviews.
Maybe make up a document with photos of the various projects, discuss them with your wife, have a think about what cabinet size you will be happy with and what you want from the sound. And of course, how much you want to spend. NB local driver cost for the XRK above is A$576 from WES, plus the crossover parts of course. The thread on the XRKs is a great read, well worth an optic.
Geoff
And a suggestion also: before you fill in the order forms, take a deep breath and wait at least a week or so. There are many options out there, including the XRK 'FAST' above, which could work for you. And you would most likely be happy with most if not all of the informed choices.
Don't just take one persons' suggestion (e.g. mine!) as everyone's music and listening tastes are different and I'm only commenting on my experience. It's great that the various options suggested have had many builds and good reviews.
Maybe make up a document with photos of the various projects, discuss them with your wife, have a think about what cabinet size you will be happy with and what you want from the sound. And of course, how much you want to spend. NB local driver cost for the XRK above is A$576 from WES, plus the crossover parts of course. The thread on the XRKs is a great read, well worth an optic.
Geoff
Hi Geoff,
Thanks for the info on local cost of drivers shipped to AUS. We are lucky in the US with parts availability. The crossovers are not too expensive. The 4mH coil can be replaced with an iron core (laminated plates) I think and actually have better bass since lower DCR. That would save about $15ea crossover. One could use 50uF BP electrolytic and bypass with 10uF MKP as another cost cutting measure. But it comes down to trade offs on parts quality. What you cannot skimp on is the RS225-8 aluminum cone woofer. That is the heart of this speaker. You can replace the full range with your favorite 3.5in 8ohm full range and get 95% of the 10F performance and save a bundle.
Thanks for the info on local cost of drivers shipped to AUS. We are lucky in the US with parts availability. The crossovers are not too expensive. The 4mH coil can be replaced with an iron core (laminated plates) I think and actually have better bass since lower DCR. That would save about $15ea crossover. One could use 50uF BP electrolytic and bypass with 10uF MKP as another cost cutting measure. But it comes down to trade offs on parts quality. What you cannot skimp on is the RS225-8 aluminum cone woofer. That is the heart of this speaker. You can replace the full range with your favorite 3.5in 8ohm full range and get 95% of the 10F performance and save a bundle.
If that's for the 'X series' speakers, the website has the tweeters listed as out of stock. Not sure how good GR's shipping rates to Australia would be. Many builds, good reviews.Nordo, have you looked at GR research
Your thread discusses using the Vifa TC9 as a substitute for the 10F, that driver's about $25 or so here, more money to spend on music!Hi Geoff,
Thanks for the info on local cost of drivers shipped to AUS. We are lucky in the US with parts availability. The crossovers are not too expensive. The 4mH coil can be replaced with an iron core (laminated plates) I think and actually have better bass since lower DCR. That would save about $15ea crossover. One could use 50uF BP electrolytic and bypass with 10uF MKP as another cost cutting measure. But it comes down to trade offs on parts quality. What you cannot skimp on is the RS225-8 aluminum cone woofer. That is the heart of this speaker. You can replace the full range with your favorite 3.5in 8ohm full range and get 95% of the 10F performance and save a bundle.
Geoff
Why? Just use the 4R tap on the OPT.A valve amp will probably not like that much
$32.50 and none in stock for a while. Still, cheaper than the Scan.Your thread discusses using the Vifa TC9 as a substitute for the 10F, that driver's about $25 or so here
Without reading the linked 176p thread, is there a synopsis of the final enclosure and xover design? I have the drivers on hand for another project and for the cost of xover parts, might try them.Many happy builders for the 10F/RS225 FAST.
It's all on Post 1 of the thread, but I will post the key figures here for your convenience:
XO for 10F/8424 and RS225-8:
XO for B80 and RS225-8:
Measured Response of Sealed Box:
Measured Step Response:
TL Cabinet Plans:
TL internal passage render:
Measured Response and Harmonic Distortion of Sealed one with B80 driver:
Step response of the B80/RS225 combo:
Measured Response and Harmonic Distortion of TL (dips below 200Hz are room effects):
Measured TL cabinet Impedance before I balanced them and found an pin hole air leak on one of them (blue):
For the sealed box - plans are simple: 10in baffle width, 7.0in ctc spacing between woofer and full range, ~24L internal volume, make a rear chamber for full range using an 11in soccer sports cone stuffed with fiberglass and lined with felt or melamine foam in first 2in from mouth.
Works well with PS95-8 as fullrange too (adjust R1/R2 to match level of woofer):
Here is a neat looking bass reflex floor mount:
Here is a neat and cool rustic looking one with a TC9:
XO for 10F/8424 and RS225-8:
XO for B80 and RS225-8:
Measured Response of Sealed Box:
![554262d1465632129-subjective-blind-abx-test-enabled-ff85wk-round-6-10f-fast-phase.png](https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/554262d1465632129-subjective-blind-abx-test-enabled-ff85wk-round-6-10f-fast-phase.png)
Measured Step Response:
![554264d1465632129-subjective-blind-abx-test-enabled-ff85wk-round-6-10f-fast-ir.png](https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/554264d1465632129-subjective-blind-abx-test-enabled-ff85wk-round-6-10f-fast-ir.png)
TL Cabinet Plans:
TL internal passage render:
Measured Response and Harmonic Distortion of Sealed one with B80 driver:
Step response of the B80/RS225 combo:
Measured Response and Harmonic Distortion of TL (dips below 200Hz are room effects):
Measured TL cabinet Impedance before I balanced them and found an pin hole air leak on one of them (blue):
For the sealed box - plans are simple: 10in baffle width, 7.0in ctc spacing between woofer and full range, ~24L internal volume, make a rear chamber for full range using an 11in soccer sports cone stuffed with fiberglass and lined with felt or melamine foam in first 2in from mouth.
Works well with PS95-8 as fullrange too (adjust R1/R2 to match level of woofer):
Here is a neat looking bass reflex floor mount:
Here is a neat and cool rustic looking one with a TC9:
![1w3myhy.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/1w3myhy.jpg)
Last edited:
Interesting that you appear not to hear a big difference between the Classix and the Bromos.I've heard the Bromo in both iterations, and the Classix II. I really liked the Ceramic Bromo version over the aluminum. It's better than the Classix in refinement, and you could likely build them into floor-standers if you preferred to, and if that was a hold-up.
Given that the Bromos will cost me more than double the Classix, then that crosses the Bromos off my list.
I like the TLs, and I think the white TLs would have a good WAF, as well as keep me happy.Many happy builders for the 10F/RS225 FAST. Many say it’s the best speaker they have heard and beats $12k commercial soeakers. Natural sounding, clear, non fatiguing and able to replicate percussion, strings, piano and guitar accurately due to 1st order transient perfect crossover. Design is proven with about 2 dozen builds or more in the field. The TL digs deep to 30Hz and needs no subwoofer. The sealed stand mounts reach 50Hz. Complete design plans and crossover with measurements in thread:
I've only had a quick look at the website, but I found it hard to differentiate between information on the sealed, the ported and the TLs.
I'll have to check that I can get the drivers in Australia.
Virtually all my projects start with a cheap, simple concept, but by the time I pull the trigger, it has become much bigger than first anticipated. Not that I've ever regretted any project.
Last edited:
It's all on Post 1 of the thread, but I will post the key figures here for your convenience:
Thanks. I was on my phone as my ISP is down and was having some difficulty reading it. I think I'll try the sealed and give them to a friend if he likes them.Sealed box plans are simple: 10in baffle width, 7in ctc spacing between woofer and full range, 24L internal volume, make a rear chamber for full range using an 11in soccer sports cone stuffed with fiberglass and lined with felt or melamine foam in first 2in from mouth.
Cheers.
They're available at WES. That's where I got mine; $A149/driver so $A600 total + postage and xovers.I'll have to check that I can get the drivers in Australia.
The only amp I have left is an old A&R Cambridge A60 integrated amp I bought in the UK in 1978.Question to Nordo: I forgot to ask whether your amp/receiver will be comfortable driving nominal 4 ohm speakers? The Classix 2.5s and Bromo are 4 and 5 ohm nominal respectively. A valve amp will probably not like that much, any modern solid state one should be fine.
I'll see if I can find some specs on line.
Yeah, I always weigh up everything before I commit. The white version of the FAST TLs look interesting.And a suggestion also: before you fill in the order forms, take a deep breath and wait at least a week or so. There are many options out there, including the XRK 'FAST' above, which could work for you. And you would most likely be happy with most if not all of the informed choices.
Yes, everything (including finances) must first be approved by the wife.Don't just take one persons' suggestion (e.g. mine!) as everyone's music and listening tastes are different and I'm only commenting on my experience. It's great that the various options suggested have had many builds and good reviews.
Maybe make up a document with photos of the various projects, discuss them with your wife, have a think about what cabinet size you will be happy with and what you want from the sound. And of course, how much you want to spend. NB local driver cost for the XRK above is A$576 from WES, plus the crossover parts of course. The thread on the XRKs is a great read, well worth an optic.
BTW, do you have an account with WES?
Years ago when I was buying from WES, it was via a tv technician friend who had an account.
Here you go. Manuals and reviews. Need to join, but I've been a member since it started and never got any spam.The only amp I have left is an old A&R Cambridge A60 integrated amp I bought in the UK in 1978.
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/arcam/a60.shtml
Most likely it would benefit from a recapping, at least in the PSU, if it's original.
Thanks Brett.Here you go. Manuals and reviews. Need to join, but I've been a member since it started and never got any spam.
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/arcam/a60.shtml
Most likely it would benefit from a recapping, at least in the PSU, if it's original.
Yes, I found the same website (and others).
Apparently the A60 can take 4ohms, but they warn not too push too hard.
Well that sucks. I didn't look at the specs until now but presumed it would be like the NAD3020 or my old Rotel RA840B and would be happy with 4R.Apparently the A60 can take 4ohms, but they warn not too push too hard.
No death metal at Police attracting volumes for you then, eh?
I stopped reading at about here so I don't know if you have picked your speakers or not but there are a couple of designs that may be worth your attention:I'll look into Curt's Tritrix (you know you're really not helping me.).
I'm starting to get to the pointy end, where my aims are :-
1. Bang for buck.
2. Parts available in Australia.
3. Clear sound stage.
Hamlet/Elsinore(Look up Hamlet in the search funciton:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-elsinore-project-thread.97043/
Travelers (maybe slightly out of your budget):
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/the-travelers-loudspeaker-kit/
I haven't built either but I did built the Bordeaux by Speaker Design Works which is their flagship design. The Travelers are supposed to match or maybe even slightly exceed the Bordeaux's Accuton's midrange detail. Having the Bordeaux, that is a big statement. I think that makes them a huge bang for the buck. Although slightly out of your budget.
The Elsinore (most likely my next build) is supposed to be a fantastic speaker. The details are in the relentless amount of time spent in design on the cabinet, waveguide etc. Joe, the designer, recently came up with a smaller design called the Hamlet which is two woofers and a tweeter. That should make it pretty economical.
If you have already picked your speakers, hopefully this will add something that future searches can find. Best of luck!
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- What's Your Favourite "Proven Design"?