Tony asked about the B1 active XO's. There's really not much to say. Any active filter that uses an opamp as a buffer (I.e. where output is directly tied to the '-' input) AND a cap blocks DC from the output to the feedback loop should be able to use a B1 like buffer. The circuits in sections 1, 2, 3 and 7 of SL's filter page all qualify, but the rest may be sketchy in my mind since the B1 can have some DC offset.

Attached is a rough drawing I scribbled last night for my own benefit, so it ain't pretty. An input buffer is something I'm still debating needing or not, but I'm leaving some room for it.

I'm going to let Soundeasy help me define the values, but the drivers are pretty well behaved in their desired bandwidth such that nearly textbook filters can be used.

I don't have enough JFETs of any one type for everything, so I'm going to have to mix types, probably LSK170s for the woofer and Toshi 2SK170s for the mid/tweet.

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Head Amp: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/aksa/...phone-amp.html
Speaker: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...ght=Moon+onken
Sub: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...hreadid=140069
TGM Amp: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...ight=amplifier
Harry77 Amp:https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid...arry-77-a.html

From Here -

Ace High Dishes | Abandoned Britain - Photographing Ruins


https://missanielablog.com/shooting-visions-of-trees



Abandoned Britain - Photographing Ruins



https://translate.googleusercontent.c...1TBHDJQSOg_AKA...

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/const...ml#post1987690

These are answers I need.

Thanks.

Look what the mailman/woman dropped at my casa.

A matched quartet of GM70's (Almost ashamed at how little I paid for them) GM70's are for a SE GM70 amp with MQ parafeed iron.

And the 500R trimpots and 0,22uF caps for the Baby Huey.

A main reason I'm active on this project is the event coming up on the 5th. For me there's nothing like a deadline to get me out in the garage.

A lot left to do:

• MLS measurements - on/off axis at varying output impedances for 3 drivers will make for quite a few measurements
• Figure out how to enclose the mid - I'm thinking open back at the moment
• Design the active crossovers in Soundeasy
• Build the active XOs - point to point likely using FirstWatt B1 type buffers (two JFETs isn't much more work than an opamp)
• Paint

Two weeks left!

edit: applogies to anyone viewing this at less than 1280 screen width... It formats properly with that (two images side by side) but I'm not going to go and redo all the images now!!! I already did twice....

OK Continuing on where Part 1 left off. The next step was to attach the Power Supply wiring. I will continue the numbering from the first blog entry for consistency.

18. 19.

images 18 and 19 show the completed amplifier with +ve -ve and zero volts wires connected. Note also that there is a separate zero volts return from the zobel capacitor to the star ground on the PS board. The red wire is the +ve the blue wire the -ve and the green wire is the zero volts. The return for the speakers is direct from the speaker output jack to the star point on the PS board. So in all there...

edit: 17th April 2011. Just to set the record straight, although I refer to this chipamp as a "gainclone" strictly speaking it is not. A gainclone is I believe actually a clone of the 47 labs gaincard, however many people refer to chipamps as gainclones incorrectly (myself included).

edit: apologies to anyone viewing this at less than 1280 screen width... It formats properly with that (two images side by side) but I'm not going to go and redo all the images now!!! I already did twice....

Well I said about 4 years ago that I would do a build writeup for my P2P gainclone. I took all of the pictures but never got around to it. I'm off sick and lacking energy so decided it was as good a time as any to have a crack at it

I started out with the BrianGT schematic. I wanted to build something that people were using and was likely to just work. Here is a copy of the schematic
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And while I was at it I saw some 0,22uF Epcos MKV from the same seller. The Epcos will do duty as coupling cap, as I've seen good reports (anecdotal) on them.

I asked Ian (gingertube) what the 470R resistors were for. Because I figured the CCS would take care of everything of the balance.

Here was his answer:
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I have used a diy fluid for drilling for the first time. Used bicycle chain oil...water and detergent. Quite happy with it. Drilled the largest hole yet. And it looked almost professional.

Also a photo of the oak enclosure after it was treated with boiled linseed oil. The oil makes the oak enclosure look a lot better, it really brings out the grain. As usual I don't have "before" pictures to show the difference. (the pictures below had a partial coat already)

I'm not sure what to seal the wood with. Suggestions are welcome. Right now I'm thinking about shellac.