Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

hi guys, I just ordered an rpi 5 and audiophilediyers r2r hat dac.. I was thinking of using ian's fifopima 1.5 reclocker board instead of flagship q7 reclocker because it can work with just a 5V input to power itself and the rpi and doesn't require 3.3V so I wouldn't have to buy a purepi power supply, I could just use my existing 5V linear power supply box.. does it come with standoffs and how do I know what height standoffs I should get to put the r2r hat dac on top if it? 12mm? I apologize if these are dumb questions. please take mercy on me and help me out :D
 
maybe a nice idea for others who want to use the same type of screen and use the same Marantz cabinet.
There is plenty of room inside for Ian's parts and others.
I used an old Marantz tuner, type ST6003 and a waveshare 7.9 inch touchscreen.
 

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I am working to upgrade my pi3 + Pi2aes (24v model) to @iancanada stack. The DAC is a Holo Cyan 2. I mostly use PiCorePlayer on the streamer and on the server (separate Pi).

I have not done much with upscaling but thinking about it so would have to move to i2s over HDMI. I lean towards that.

One of my debates and thus the question here is should I just start with the stack Or should I get a Station Pi pro from the get go?

I will most likely start with the PurePi II for power.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Denafrips ARES 12th/II R-2R DAC clock upgrade beat Spring3​




Denafrips ARES 12th/II is a decent R-2R DAC at a very good price. One of the biggest differences between Ares and higher grade DACs is the clock. For example, Puntus uses TCXO and Terminator uses OCXO.

By default, the sound quality was good, typical R-2R sound signature, but just didn't impress me much.The middle range was pretty beautiful. But the high range sounds like behind a layer of fog.The 3D image was also not that solid. So I believe there will be a big potential to improve ARES sound quality if use better clocks. Because Denafrips DAC's clocks can not be disabled, the only way would be to replace the internal clocks.


ARES 12th uses 45.1584/49.1520MHz low phase noise clocks as default. I performed a real phase noise measurement on them. The actual testing result was OK but still a bit far from the higher grade clocks. SC-Pure clock is 14dBc/Hz better at 10Hz offset and 17dBc/Hz better at 1kHz offset. So are the rest of the offset frequencies. That's the reason I designed this ARES clock upgrade KIT. After upgrading with two 45/49 SC-Pure clocks and keeping break-in for two weeks, I was surprised to find that the sound quality got a big improvement and the soundstage suddenly opened clearly. And the high range becomes really beautiful feels like there is a golden edge surround the 3D image. That's pretty impressed. It was upgraded at least by two levels, which makes ARES capable of challenging 5K or higher price high-end DACs.

ARES 12th clock upgrade KIT


Steps of upgrade



Listening test results
I performed listening tests to my ARES 12th before and after clock upgrading, and with my Spring 3

Listening test configurations:
B&W 802 D2 speakers
Pass XA 160.5 pure class A mono block
Pass XP-10 Pre-Amplifier XLR input/output
PS Audio P20 PowerPlant


Conclusions

After upgrading with SC-Pure clocks, my ARES 12th already beat my Spring3. Even the FemtoMck clocks make it at the same level as a Spring3.
I have to say the ARES clock upgrade is really worth it

Note:
1. Again, the listening test is a subjective test, different people may have different results.
2. To eliminate psychological effect, when switch from clock A to clock B, repeat the test using the following sequence
A-B-A-B

Ian
 
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Made another change; replaced the OPA861 with Ivan's transformer.
The sound signature between the two is very-very different. I will reserve any judgement on how the transformer I/V sounds for at least 2-3 weeks.

For anyone building the dual mono 2QM dac with OPA861, please do wait 2-3 weeks before passing any judgement. I was pleasantly surprised, how much the sound of the dac/system changed over 2-3 weeks.

Before
1718687891180.png


After
1718687911294.png
 
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One of my debates and thus the question here is should I just start with the stack Or should I get a Station Pi pro from the get go?

I will most likely start with the PurePi II for power.

Hi Bob! It depends on whether you are building this to see if you like the sound enough to build another one. This would be the stack option. If you plan on this being your GoTo digital system, or if you'd like to get this inside a chassis, then I'd start with the StationPi Pro. Actually, the StationPi Pro could be used al fresco as well, so to me that edges out a regular stack.
 
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Thanks for that. I actually will need two systems so I ordered a stack with the TransportPi Digi to start with. I will test in the first system and then see where I go. I

I do not understand all the differences between the two Station Pi boards yet and I just wanted to get a taste!
 
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For Holo Cuan 2, it's better to use an external re-clock DDC to upgrade sound quality, as the same as what I did to my Spring3,
Please read my blog
https://iancanada.ca/blogs/news/imp...ked-ddc-streamer-transport-and-sc-pure-clocks

Ian
I am uncertain whether the numbers are incorrect or if there are any errors in the images. However, upon comparing your Denafrips entry with the Gustard entry, it appears that there has been no significant improvement in Spring3 upgrade.

1718746354872.png
 
good morning everyone. I'm starting to design a cabinet that will contain my Ian Canada Dac and streamer project. I wanted to ask you. For now, can I use the output of the Allo Shanti 5v 3A to power a purepi and use the second output of the Shanti 5v 1.2A to power the lifepo4 mini 3.3v that I will use only for the fifopi q7? is the voltage of 1.2A too low for the lifepo4!?
 
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i have been down this same research path. I have chosen to not try it. Studying the manuals:

For the Purepi II you should be fine with the Shanti high current side.

  • Only one standard 5V 2.5A or higher current power supply in USB-C is needed as power input.

For the low current side not so much: The Lifepo4 mini wants 2 AMPS and to be independent from any other PS. The Shanti second output is not enough and I do not know how "independent it is"



https://github.com/iancanada/Docume...ini/LifePO4Mini3.3V/LifePO4Mini3.3VManual.pdf