Sweet Asilker! You definitely don't need additional lighting in the room, LOL!
Just be careful of your exposed fuse holder with AC mains....Zap!!
Also, your clean signal GND is connected to dirty earth GND via your single point on the chassis. The signal and PSU GND should connect to the chassis GND through a ground loop breaker or 10R NTC. Do you hear any background noise when music is paused?
Just be careful of your exposed fuse holder with AC mains....Zap!!
Also, your clean signal GND is connected to dirty earth GND via your single point on the chassis. The signal and PSU GND should connect to the chassis GND through a ground loop breaker or 10R NTC. Do you hear any background noise when music is paused?
Vunce you're suggesting a 10ohm thermistor?
I only listened last night at low levels so I can check for noise today. I'm running an F5 into Altecs, and I didn't hear any noise but there very well could be something funky. And top and bottom covers are on, no worries about fuse safety.
Intojazz, yup same boards! I did two PSU1 mostly because I thought it would be fun, I have no idea if it actually makes a difference or not. The AD1862s have their own 12 and 5 supplies, all op amps are on one 12 supply, and then the JL board runs on it's own 5. I still would like to try R core transformers, but for now I am using Antek because they are regionally local (not international) and because these ones feature two independent windinga per transformer so there's some level of isolation
I would eventually like to build the Pass D1 IV and see what that's about
Oh! Also I'm running reconstruction filter config #1
I only listened last night at low levels so I can check for noise today. I'm running an F5 into Altecs, and I didn't hear any noise but there very well could be something funky. And top and bottom covers are on, no worries about fuse safety.
Intojazz, yup same boards! I did two PSU1 mostly because I thought it would be fun, I have no idea if it actually makes a difference or not. The AD1862s have their own 12 and 5 supplies, all op amps are on one 12 supply, and then the JL board runs on it's own 5. I still would like to try R core transformers, but for now I am using Antek because they are regionally local (not international) and because these ones feature two independent windinga per transformer so there's some level of isolation
I would eventually like to build the Pass D1 IV and see what that's about
Oh! Also I'm running reconstruction filter config #1
Hi,
Nice casing asilker.
Is it not a bad practice than using a metalic rod and screw to tie a toroid transformer ?
Was the transformer given with a plastic screw? Are the toroids black hat made of metal or plastic ?
I don't often use torroids but I remember having read something like that.
Nice casing asilker.
Is it not a bad practice than using a metalic rod and screw to tie a toroid transformer ?
Was the transformer given with a plastic screw? Are the toroids black hat made of metal or plastic ?
I don't often use torroids but I remember having read something like that.
More trouble with the USB input through the JL Sounds board. It's recognized by all my PCs but often won't play anything
Apparently picky and works with some USB ports and not with others, but once it's working it's fine with either powered or not powered setups (my USB board is powered independently from the AD1862 5V).
The 5v+ LED lights up when PSU1 is connected to the board. I wonder if the computers don't like flowing 5v out to ground through the LEDs? Maybe I could drop a diode in there so power only flows TO the board and not from it?
Edited to add: the board works with all USB ports when it's powered from the computer and not from the PSU1 supply. I suspect we need to keep PSU1 from sucking up power from the computer
Apparently picky and works with some USB ports and not with others, but once it's working it's fine with either powered or not powered setups (my USB board is powered independently from the AD1862 5V).
The 5v+ LED lights up when PSU1 is connected to the board. I wonder if the computers don't like flowing 5v out to ground through the LEDs? Maybe I could drop a diode in there so power only flows TO the board and not from it?
Edited to add: the board works with all USB ports when it's powered from the computer and not from the PSU1 supply. I suspect we need to keep PSU1 from sucking up power from the computer
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I have +5v going into "+5VD2", J9 and SJ1, and SJ3 are populated but J14 is not populated.
SJ2 is populated, and GND2 measures shorted to ground.
If I understand correctly, VDD2 to H1/1 powers the USB part of the JL Board, and +5VD2 to H3/17 powers the processors and master clock
Should I try changing something?
SJ2 is populated, and GND2 measures shorted to ground.
If I understand correctly, VDD2 to H1/1 powers the USB part of the JL Board, and +5VD2 to H3/17 powers the processors and master clock
Should I try changing something?
Hello, time has passed, are you listening to 797? Or is there something more interesting? I think to order or not, not cheap.
@intojazz,
You can make a low noise adjustable reg with from a LM317 for example.
Theorically, the 5V of the pin 17 on the JLSounds board must be very low noise and ripple rejection as they feed the nice clock made of two nice NDK SA.
In that regard the TS7A reg Jimk04 uses in spite of 7805 is a nice swap. More expensive on a rabbit hole deepness point of view.... but still cheap VS the tons of bad off the shelves delta sigma dacs.
Imho miro's board even doesn't need reconstruction filter... but one rule: trust your ears, the final rendering is always the sum of all your hifi equipments.
You can make a low noise adjustable reg with from a LM317 for example.
Theorically, the 5V of the pin 17 on the JLSounds board must be very low noise and ripple rejection as they feed the nice clock made of two nice NDK SA.
In that regard the TS7A reg Jimk04 uses in spite of 7805 is a nice swap. More expensive on a rabbit hole deepness point of view.... but still cheap VS the tons of bad off the shelves delta sigma dacs.
Imho miro's board even doesn't need reconstruction filter... but one rule: trust your ears, the final rendering is always the sum of all your hifi equipments.