I cut single sockets off a strip of machined pin sockets. I don’t remember where I purchased them from. Just search for ‘Machined Header Pin Sockets’ 
Break Away Female Headers - Swiss Machine Pin - PRT-00743 - SparkFun Electronics
Break Away Female Headers - Swiss Machine Pin - PRT-00743 - SparkFun Electronics
Okay, I recant the beard comment. When I build one, I'm not changing, there's snot!
Pop and Wayne look at every point of failure with an eye toward not having a conversation with one a world away as to why the amp failed. That's why you won't find that stuff in the box.
Hey great, you want to swap thenfine,but when you build one you don't for real, FQC&S.
We need to get on whomever filled these kits with QC’s!
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I cut single sockets off a strip of machined pin sockets. I don’t remember where I purchased them from. Just search for ‘Machined Header Pin Sockets’
Break Away Female Headers - Swiss Machine Pin - PRT-00743 - SparkFun Electronics
Got it... Thanks.
Hi JT,
Love your DIYA passion
In the unlikely chance of questionable behavior, shipping will be extremely cheap.
Travel distance is about 10 meters to the service center where I know the tech guy personally
Btw, what is FQC&S???
That post may have had some single malt in it.
FQC&S quick connects and spades. QC work okay, they are in most of the first amps I built, but I also had them fail when I had to pull stuff and put it back in multipal times. If I use them now they are all soldered.
They are handy, especially for us new people to get something running. It sucks to have to de-solder clean and resolder only to find it still not working right. Also good for proto work and the like. I kinda look at them like that spare donut tire, it will get you where you are going, but it's not, the best, long term solution.
If you intend to swap amps and use the same supply, then yes, it's a good way to do that, but when you decide this one is never getting touched, I don't use them.
In fact, I have a few amps I need to go back and solder them in.
JT
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Up and running
Hello Chede,
stupid me, I soldered some wires to switch 2, but have only the one pole switch on hand. So the wires are waiting for the ordered switch to be connected. I didn' totaly get the function of this switch. While testing I shorted this wires for a short while but seems like, I didn't check properly. Now its shorted and the amplifer is up and running properly, problem solved thanks to your hint.
I like diyaudio.com
Hello Chede,
stupid me, I soldered some wires to switch 2, but have only the one pole switch on hand. So the wires are waiting for the ordered switch to be connected. I didn' totaly get the function of this switch. While testing I shorted this wires for a short while but seems like, I didn't check properly. Now its shorted and the amplifer is up and running properly, problem solved thanks to your hint.
I like diyaudio.com
I was worried for you and your V-fets last night! Glad you sorted it out. I am also a bit nervous of understanding this switch. This should be VERY clear in a future illustrated build guide. Feel free to make a short one just about the switch. You took beautiful pictures that will help me a lot.
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Hi RainfallSky,
naa ... no need for fancy stuff, just standard quality connectors like these:
Security Check
The die-based crimping tool I bought a long time ago, don't know where and how much it cost, but searching online for the inscription yields a number of hits with cost below 15 EUR. I was a bit surprised myself, because I thought I had paid more for it then ... This tool actually works very well - it is a lifetime investment.
After ten years of building amps, I did actually buy myself a Knipex Electronic Super Knips wire cutter ... and I like it very much
Regards, Claas
Oh. Got it.
I found similar tool on aliexpress:
Crimping tools HS 03BC Pliers for 2.8 4.8 6.3 VH3.96/Tube/Insulation Terminals Kit Multifunctional Electrical Medium size Clamp|Pliers| - AliExpress
I think this is a perfect rule of thumb, or at least it’s generally the advice I try and follow. Well said!
The VFET front end PCBs named Scourge, Bulwark, Marauder, and Dreadnought, all include two different ways to interconnect the board to the rest of the amplifier. Both Euro-style terminal block connectors, and also wire-soldered-to-PCB component holes, are provided. Some builders prefer the former, others prefer the latter. There's even room to use both at the same time, if that's what makes your heart sing.
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