DIYA store "Wolverine" (Son of Badger) .... suggestions ??

Given that it took me about 20 hours just to read through the whole thread, it probably took the designers 100 hours to write coherent, relevant posts. I expect the actual design work behind those posts took orders of magnitude longer. I feel fortunate to be a part of the GB.
 
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Hi Guy's,

I have sent out quite a few requests for the payment for shipping over the past few days, I still have plenty to do. But if you can keep your eye out for them in your personal email. The one you supplied to me with your order that would be greatly appreciated. The sooner you pay the shipping request the quicker I can complete the customs forms and finalise your order ready for dispatch.
 
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Hi fellow Wolverines!

I have an antek AN-8445 transformer that puts me at 64vdc rails I believe. https://www.antekinc.com/an-8445-800va-45v-transformer/

It was orginally for the Honey Badger but got side tracked with life, so looking to repurpose it to the wolverine. I was thinking to use a CRC PCB with snap in caps for the filtering but now thinking about going Screw Terminal Caps, I've always wanted to use them and was wondering if anyone could point me in the best way to go about it and how much uF I need. I was looking at getting 4x 20,000uf 80v/100v caps. Will this be enough? Also I have access to 3mm copper plate/sheet and a cnc so could macine out some fancy rails perhaps. So will I be sweet with just a couple 400v 35amp case mount rectifiers 4 caps and some rails? I know some people like to add small caps parallel to speed up things and handle frequency but looks like the Wolverine might be able to handle any outstanding ripple.

Any help would be great thanks. Been a few years since I played with diy amps. Thanks
 
Given that it took me about 20 hours just to read through the whole thread, it probably took the designers 100 hours to write coherent, relevant posts. I expect the actual design work behind those posts took orders of magnitude longer. I feel fortunate to be a part of the GB.
I know what Stuart is like and he is very meticulous and leaves no stone unturned, this amplifier has probably shaved 5 years off his life, but he would have loved challenge. We should all be very very appreciative to him and others in the team with what they have produced and shared for us.
 
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C1 recommended value is 4u7 film - foil type. Larger values will give a boost to lower frequencies but dont go too large as this might encourage frequencies low enough to trip your DC Detector in the speaker protection (if you plan to use one) or damage your speakers (if no protection).
I plan on using a pair of big black 8u2 400v caps recovered from the crossover of some dead speakers many years ago. Not sure of the brand but has a large fancy "S" and 1992 date code. Looking for some neutral cure silastic type stuff to hold them down.
 
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I have just caught up with the last 20 or so posts.

  • The BOM changes were made to make the BOM easier to read. No component values were changed.
  • Separate power supplies for each channel are preferred. Power supplies with 20,000uF (10,000uF||10,000uF) per rail were tested and gave very good results.
  • A CRC supply was not tested.
  • The choice of diode bridges is up to you. Some prefer soft recovery type diodes, others don’t. In all cases, even if you use 35A or larger bridges you should use a soft start to slow the in rush of current.
  • As the choice of C1 is a little controversial, I’ll leave it up to you to decide on what type of cap to use. You can experiment with different types and let us know the results. However (IMO) there is no need for exotic caps in that position. The polypropylene types specified in the BOM are good enough and will fit on the PCB. If you use a pre-amp, CD player etc. that has a capacitor on the output, you can replace C1 with a wire.
 
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Hi Guy's,

I have officially finished packaging and processing all my orders.

That will cover everyone outside of the USA and Canada.

Jeremy is handling those regions.

All I am wanting on now is for people who haven't paid for their shipping to pay.

I have had about 50% of people pay so far.

If you have checked your personal email address and you haven't received an email from me requesting payment please send me a PM with the email address that I should use and I'll resend you the payment request.

Just about there guys.
Thanks for your patience.
 
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Great job! And perseverance in a job that must be mind-numbing. Thank you!

Could Jeremy explain how the shipping will work in the US, please. I have not heard anything yet.
I'm working on getting all the orders ready, then I'll send out a PayPal request for shipping which will be in the next couple of days. I only get a couple of hours a night to work all these orders due to family activities so bear with me.

Jeremy
 
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