Hi all, building the parts order for an F5T V2. There are no MUR3020W diodes available on Mouser, will this work? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/STTH6002CW?qs=arR7071Fstdp0Y7vL%2Fqncg%3D%3D
It has the same Vf and larger current numbers.
It has the same Vf and larger current numbers.
The “turbo” effect is depending on the temp coefficient of the MUR3020 specifically.
Generally speaking, people have more successful builds if the diodes are left out. I’d suggest that.
Great, thanks. What's up with the market availability of 20k uf electrolytics?
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20 isn’t a standard value. Try 18000 or 22000uF.
How about these? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/SLPX223M050H9P3?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3ROGmxq83YAGFj4P3dso7ik%3D
The cheapest Nichicons are $31 each.
Hi all,
I am just finishing off an Alepj J build and got quite hooked. I intend to use the Aleph for my midhorn CD's and started contemplaiting building a pair of F5 v3 to drive a pair of AE TD12M. How much more advanced is the F5 to build and would it be suitable to drive a pair of 12" mids down to 80Hz?
I am just finishing off an Alepj J build and got quite hooked. I intend to use the Aleph for my midhorn CD's and started contemplaiting building a pair of F5 v3 to drive a pair of AE TD12M. How much more advanced is the F5 to build and would it be suitable to drive a pair of 12" mids down to 80Hz?
Hi all,
I am just finishing off an Alepj J build and got quite hooked. I intend to use the Aleph for my midhorn CD's and started contemplaiting building a pair of F5 v3 to drive a pair of AE TD12M. How much more advanced is the F5 to build and would it be suitable to drive a pair of 12" mids down to 80Hz?
Please be specific. You've posted in the F5 Turbo thread. Are you inquiring re: building a pair of F5 Turbo V3s or a pair of "standard" F5 V3s?
Tricky name differentiation, I know, but there is a vast difference (to me) in the complexity of the builds.
6L6 may have a different reply for you based on your answer. Not sure.
No worries at all. 6L6 is a much better authority on the matter than I. However, I consider the F5 Turbo V3s (If you TRULY build the V3 how Nelson describes it) to be one of the more ambitious projects in the family of amps sold through the site.
I'd consider it a step up in:
build complexity,
knowledge to understand what's going on with the circuit, and
risk of even worse things happening if something does not go to plan.
Can you be successful, sure. Many people have. Would I consider a slightly less risky version of the Turbo perhaps without the diodes... yes.
Should you? If you've read the various threads and can understand why certain components heated to the point of destruction and know how to prevent it, plus, you REALLY want and need that extra power, then build the "full Monty" version of the V3.
My humble opinion / $0.02.
Enjoy!
![cheers :cheers: :cheers:](https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
I'd consider it a step up in:
build complexity,
knowledge to understand what's going on with the circuit, and
risk of even worse things happening if something does not go to plan.
Can you be successful, sure. Many people have. Would I consider a slightly less risky version of the Turbo perhaps without the diodes... yes.
Should you? If you've read the various threads and can understand why certain components heated to the point of destruction and know how to prevent it, plus, you REALLY want and need that extra power, then build the "full Monty" version of the V3.
My humble opinion / $0.02.
Enjoy!
![cheers :cheers: :cheers:](https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
Lots of people building and leaving out the turbo diodes. Makes for a more stable and less twitchy amp.
What is the purpose for them at this location in the circuit?
Is there anything else that needs to be done when removing them? Other than leaving them out of the board?
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