This is for Scott or someone who is better at searching for his designs than I am.
So, I have been greatly enjoying listening to the Tang Band W5 1611 in Scott's Sun Bear design cabinet. This got me to wondering how the sound would compare to the very highly regarded TB W5 2143 driver. I have therefor decided to order a pair IF I can find a cabinet design by Scott of 20L or less that he feels would do them justice. I have found several possible designs but none by Scott however I suspect he has done one or more since this is a quite popular driver. I have built two of his designs and really would like to make this upcomming build the third. Can anyone help me out with this? Thanks!
Jay
So, I have been greatly enjoying listening to the Tang Band W5 1611 in Scott's Sun Bear design cabinet. This got me to wondering how the sound would compare to the very highly regarded TB W5 2143 driver. I have therefor decided to order a pair IF I can find a cabinet design by Scott of 20L or less that he feels would do them justice. I have found several possible designs but none by Scott however I suspect he has done one or more since this is a quite popular driver. I have built two of his designs and really would like to make this upcomming build the third. Can anyone help me out with this? Thanks!
Jay
I looked up "muggins" and suspect that you are greatly downplaying your expertiese and in no way are a "tinkerer". I personally regard you, based on your contributions here and several of your videos as an exceptionslly knowledgeable designer who is also realistic about the limitations and applications of DIY audio. So, that said, I do hope you can find one that I can build. I don't expect a night and day difference from the really excellent TB W5 1611 - Sun Bear combination, but am so pleased with that one that I would greatly like to hear how the W5 2143 driver sounds. Many thanks for your quick response and willingness to see what you can find.
Jay
Jay
Hi Team and thank you to this wonderful forum for providing a wealth of knowledge for the DIY audio community.
I am completely new to this and have no experience with designing speakers, after reading a lot from this forum and links shared here I realized that my goal of designing and building a speaker to meet my below requirements seems a nightmare.
Requirements:
Now I need the expertise and extensive build experience of the members here to advise on whether this design will work or any major changes I need to make to the design so that I can finalize my design. Please find attached all the details and drawings made so far for your review
Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
I am completely new to this and have no experience with designing speakers, after reading a lot from this forum and links shared here I realized that my goal of designing and building a speaker to meet my below requirements seems a nightmare.
Requirements:
- Single driver (To eliminate crossovers)
- Floor-standing speaker (120-150Litre)
- Front ported (Due to space issues in my home with backporting)
- TQWT design (To get a bit more bass extension)
Now I need the expertise and extensive build experience of the members here to advise on whether this design will work or any major changes I need to make to the design so that I can finalize my design. Please find attached all the details and drawings made so far for your review
Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
The DCR version (Moon Bear):
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...b-dayton-seas-etc.323051/page-10#post-6699907
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...b-dayton-seas-etc.323051/page-10#post-6699907
Hi Mike
I just looked up the link to the Sun Bear cabinet but Scott beat me to it.
For more details on my actual build, including the filter that I liked best, you can go here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...r-tang-band-w5-1611-nice.374067/#post-6713296
I have been using them as my primary speakers in one of my systems and I like them significantly better overall than my unfiltered MA 11MS or 10P. In my opinion they are really nice.
Best,
Jay
I just looked up the link to the Sun Bear cabinet but Scott beat me to it.
For more details on my actual build, including the filter that I liked best, you can go here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...r-tang-band-w5-1611-nice.374067/#post-6713296
I have been using them as my primary speakers in one of my systems and I like them significantly better overall than my unfiltered MA 11MS or 10P. In my opinion they are really nice.
Best,
Jay
Last edited by a moderator:
Found it. Quickly tweaked the sketch a bit. Filter is optional, roughly -3.25dB shelving as given some of the measurements I'm a bit wary about its tonal balance as-is / sans correction in a smaller box.
Attachments
Many, many thanks Scott. I have never built a double chamber speaker so this will be a new adventure for me. The drivers are now ordered and I will start on the cabinets once the drivers arrive and are checked for functionality.
One question at this point. I have both 3/4 inch plywood and MDF on hand. Although it would probably be hard to quantify, based on your experience, how large a difference in sound quality would result from using the MDF? I too prefer plywood because it is more durable and much nicer to work with in the finishing stage. I have not, however, noticed any characteristic differences in sound between plywood and MDF cabinets. I would appreciate your thoughts as to why MDF is acceptable but not preferred. Baltic birch plywood has gotten so expensive I only want to use it if the changes in overall sound quality in this aplication are more than "quite subtle". I will be driving them with very good quality electronics if that is a factor.
Thanks again for your help. There is a great deal more to designing a top notch cabinet than sitting down with WinISD or Xbox and going for the lowest f3. Your expertiese is greatly appreciated.
Best,
Jay
One question at this point. I have both 3/4 inch plywood and MDF on hand. Although it would probably be hard to quantify, based on your experience, how large a difference in sound quality would result from using the MDF? I too prefer plywood because it is more durable and much nicer to work with in the finishing stage. I have not, however, noticed any characteristic differences in sound between plywood and MDF cabinets. I would appreciate your thoughts as to why MDF is acceptable but not preferred. Baltic birch plywood has gotten so expensive I only want to use it if the changes in overall sound quality in this aplication are more than "quite subtle". I will be driving them with very good quality electronics if that is a factor.
Thanks again for your help. There is a great deal more to designing a top notch cabinet than sitting down with WinISD or Xbox and going for the lowest f3. Your expertiese is greatly appreciated.
Best,
Jay
FWIW, my general take is that for bass enclosures, if it's a choice of MDF or nothing at all, I'd take MDF as the preferred option any day. 
A compromise in materials is better than having no music, which I think we'd all accept is fair enough. However, a quality void-free multiply will generally result in less colouration for a given panel thickness, as would a high quality chipboard (particleboard), so if the choice is available, would be what I'd use.
A compromise in materials is better than having no music, which I think we'd all accept is fair enough. However, a quality void-free multiply will generally result in less colouration for a given panel thickness, as would a high quality chipboard (particleboard), so if the choice is available, would be what I'd use.
Hey!FWIW, my general take is that for bass enclosures, if it's a choice of MDF or nothing at all, I'd take MDF as the preferred option any day.
Particleboard has been said to be better than mdf.
Cheaper and more suitable.
Unfortunately, it is a little harder to work with.
The cuts must be filled and so on.
Wondering a bit about the thickness and its impact. If you use mdf 16mm or 22mm chipboard. Which would you prefer?
I think you take 22mm chipboard.
Why take a 22mm chipboard? Does the resonance frequency drop? What else is affected?
Why is birch plywood so good?
Many questions about material.
Regards
Leif
I lack speaker constructions that can be placed very close to walls or hung on a wall.
A friend of mine would build such a speaker if there was one.
Is it difficult to make such a construction?
He would like to use a driver from Alpair.
Alpair 11MS, Alpair 10Maop or Alpair 10P.
He would like a box that you can hang on the wall. If there are already alternatives, he would like these.
Regards
Leif
A friend of mine would build such a speaker if there was one.
Is it difficult to make such a construction?
He would like to use a driver from Alpair.
Alpair 11MS, Alpair 10Maop or Alpair 10P.
He would like a box that you can hang on the wall. If there are already alternatives, he would like these.
Regards
Leif
One just needs to make a highly damped alignment that it the reciprocal of the gain from the wall.
Poplar is probably spot on (at least close) for a wall hugging ML-TL.
http://wodendesign.com/planset/Poplar-A10x-MLTL-teaser.pdf
dave
Poplar is probably spot on (at least close) for a wall hugging ML-TL.
http://wodendesign.com/planset/Poplar-A10x-MLTL-teaser.pdf
dave
How does one achieve a "highly damped alignment the reciprocal of the gain from the wall?"
I've been interested in the poplar. Have some MAOP 10.2's breaking in, and wonder if these would work well since they substitute well in other 10.3 enclosures. Speaking of which, Dave, do you still need beta testers for the MAOP 10.2 miniOnken? I would not be able to build them until late in the year, but I am interested.
Cheers all!
Plywood is way better in mobile applications than MDF or chipboard. However for stationary use the difference between them are small. Klang & Ton and also Hobby HiFI have done extensive measurement of both vibrations (accelerometer) and sound transmission. The short of it is that increasing thickness improves the performance but not that much. Constriction layer damping is really good, bracing is also good.
Then again it might be that our perception is way different compared to what is measured with accelerometers and microphones and birch plywood is more musical than MDF and chipboard.
Then again it might be that our perception is way different compared to what is measured with accelerometers and microphones and birch plywood is more musical than MDF and chipboard.
Thanks for your rewarding post.Plywood is way better in mobile applications than MDF or chipboard. However for stationary use the difference between them are small. Klang & Ton and also Hobby HiFI have done extensive measurement of both vibrations (accelerometer) and sound transmission. The short of it is that increasing thickness improves the performance but not that much. Constriction layer damping is really good, bracing is also good.
Then again it might be that our perception is way different compared to what is measured with accelerometers and microphones and birch plywood is more musical than MDF and chipboard.
Wanted to hear what differentiated ply versus mdf, chipboard. I have never built with plywood.
I may have missed something. Have only built smaller boxes and then I do not think it has such a big impact.
If you choose the type to build large boxes of Pensil or Frugelhorn, it probably matters more.
Regards
Leif