Updated "whats playing now" list:
Drivers (each side)
4x Beyma 21SW1600nd in H-baffle 16-170 Hz
4x Seas W22EX001 170-500 Hz
2x Seas W15CH001 500-1800 Hz
Mundorf AMT 2340 without frontplate 1800 Hz ->
Subwoofer H-baffle outer dimensions are 60x60x112 cm
Amplifiers of my own production, based on ICEpower standard modules:
Tweeter: 60W / 8 ohm
Midranges: 120W / 4 ohm
Woofers: 2x 120 W / 4 ohm (one amp drives two 8" woofers each)
Subwoofers: 4x 1200W / 4 ohm (one amp drives two 21" woofers each)
XO:
Computer software: Console, PLParEQ
Computer audio interface: RME Fireface 800
DAC: Digital Audio Denmark AX24 (8-channels)
Source:
Squeezebox
Cables: yes
Drivers (each side)
4x Beyma 21SW1600nd in H-baffle 16-170 Hz
4x Seas W22EX001 170-500 Hz
2x Seas W15CH001 500-1800 Hz
Mundorf AMT 2340 without frontplate 1800 Hz ->
Subwoofer H-baffle outer dimensions are 60x60x112 cm
Amplifiers of my own production, based on ICEpower standard modules:
Tweeter: 60W / 8 ohm
Midranges: 120W / 4 ohm
Woofers: 2x 120 W / 4 ohm (one amp drives two 8" woofers each)
Subwoofers: 4x 1200W / 4 ohm (one amp drives two 21" woofers each)
XO:
Computer software: Console, PLParEQ
Computer audio interface: RME Fireface 800
DAC: Digital Audio Denmark AX24 (8-channels)
Source:
Squeezebox
Cables: yes
An other good thing with this distributed subwoofer setup is that the large cabinets can be placed further away from the main dipoles. If placed too close, they do introduce strange things below 3-400 Hz, and will obstruct the dipole radiation pattern somewhat. I've also tried to place the subs around the dipole null, which also helps.
I was wondering whether doing the opposite - placing the mid high dipoles in the nulls of the subs - would help even more, in that their cone movements would be less influenced by the subs' output. Less doppler distortion?
My current favorite cables are the ones with connectors at both ends - to die for.
BTW - that looks awesome!
If I move them just 10-15 cm futher back they will be in the nulls of the subs.... worth a try!
Long enough is very important. More than connectors, I think.I like the ones that are long enough too....
Also flexy enough they don't mess up your beautiful swinging speaker. The MI2 I like to use is anything but so I'm thinking of rigidly mounting it in proximity to lightweight drivers like the Neo3 and Neo8 and then jumping the last inch with the same sort of wire used to connect to the voice coil dynamic drivers. Anyone know a good source for such highly braided, flexy, durable stuff?
Unwrapped Litz wire
I have some 14ga Litz wire left from my adventures in class D output coil winding. Pictured on the upper left.
Long enough is very important. More than connectors, I think.
Also flexy enough they don't mess up your beautiful swinging speaker. The MI2 I like to use is anything but so I'm thinking of rigidly mounting it in proximity to lightweight drivers like the Neo3 and Neo8 and then jumping the last inch with the same sort of wire used to connect to the voice coil dynamic drivers. Anyone know a good source for such highly braided, flexy, durable stuff?
I have some 14ga Litz wire left from my adventures in class D output coil winding. Pictured on the upper left.
Attachments
Think, placing the mid & tweeter in the dipole null of the bass is not effective.
It might be *if* tweeter and mid would be monopole - as then they would be sensitive to pressure changes that are minimum in dipole null.
In full OB / nude setup, above isn't the case - quite in contrary - IMO mid and tweeter act more like a "velocity mic" - highly directional that is.
I'm curious to what conclusions your investigation will lead us...
Michael
It might be *if* tweeter and mid would be monopole - as then they would be sensitive to pressure changes that are minimum in dipole null.
In full OB / nude setup, above isn't the case - quite in contrary - IMO mid and tweeter act more like a "velocity mic" - highly directional that is.
I'm curious to what conclusions your investigation will lead us...
Michael
I think if the mid and tweeters were monopole they would function, effectively, as "pressure" microphones. If they were dipole, they would function as "velocity" (or "pressure gradient") microphones such as a figure of eight ribbon mic which, after all is just another dipole transducer, used in reverse.
In either case they would react to fluctuations in ambient air pressure.
In either case they would react to fluctuations in ambient air pressure.
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I just HAD to post this! Seems like DIYaudio.com has discovered the advantages of suspending the PC speaker... in fact, the entire server.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks to me like the LCD isn't suspended. Either that or it's a very skinny bicycle tube.Seems like DIYaudio.com has discovered the advantages of suspending the PC speaker... in fact, the entire server.
Looks to me like the LCD isn't suspended. Either that or it's a very skinny bicycle tube.
Looks like a CRT to me, which would explain the skinny bike tube. Tube on tube action.
Updates:
a) Main diplole frames are now painted black..... much less ugly.
b) Woofer to sub XO moved down to 100 Hz. Didnt quite get the upper bass to sound right, so I tried to lower the XO again. Much cleaner now.
c) Measurements showed that the distributed subs did not affect the second length mode at allh, which causes a slight dip at 50 Hz. This is probably because the dipole null of the side subs are in the length direction of the room. Apart from that, the placement of the subs work very very well!
a) Main diplole frames are now painted black..... much less ugly.
b) Woofer to sub XO moved down to 100 Hz. Didnt quite get the upper bass to sound right, so I tried to lower the XO again. Much cleaner now.
c) Measurements showed that the distributed subs did not affect the second length mode at allh, which causes a slight dip at 50 Hz. This is probably because the dipole null of the side subs are in the length direction of the room. Apart from that, the placement of the subs work very very well!