I be carefulJust be careful under a fault condition. Safety first.
I am only kidding you about the utube video.
my plans have to have a nice sound amp that I know I will have enough room for nice bass tones I'm not gonna push the limits of the amp to run it at 300W for 30 minutes no-no and the music I'm gonna play is mostly American music 80's and 90's music, not the new rap stuff now a day that I can not understand
I'm a member of diyaudio and I learn a lot so I think is time not to keep searching for the perfect amp there is not perfect amp and is time to build one completely and relax 
I go by example of what the faults are and what needs service. The simple Pioneer soft-start I speak of shows that if the relay does not get energized (PS fault on the secondary side), the resistors gets hot enough to blow the thermal fuse and that is the end of it.
I do see in a Marantz 2385, that I have all apart, it does not have a thermal fuse, only a series resistor, and the relay, so it is not a UL requirement. UL wants to make sure if there is a fault it can stay that way indefinite or blow some approved protection device safely without any damages.
Agree, a HID ballast test, UL1029 is not the same as an audio amplifier test, a different classification. I'd have to look up or ask what the UL testing standard is for an audio amplifier, since I have never done one. We have seen enough smoked amps to know what can go wrong. I did wire up a heat chamber once and got special Ontario Hydro approval.
I have a SX-1010 in for service, it has a City of LA, California local building safety authority stamp on the back, I thought that was different.
I do see in a Marantz 2385, that I have all apart, it does not have a thermal fuse, only a series resistor, and the relay, so it is not a UL requirement. UL wants to make sure if there is a fault it can stay that way indefinite or blow some approved protection device safely without any damages.
Agree, a HID ballast test, UL1029 is not the same as an audio amplifier test, a different classification. I'd have to look up or ask what the UL testing standard is for an audio amplifier, since I have never done one. We have seen enough smoked amps to know what can go wrong. I did wire up a heat chamber once and got special Ontario Hydro approval.
I have a SX-1010 in for service, it has a City of LA, California local building safety authority stamp on the back, I thought that was different.
hello guys I tested the soft star yesterday with my 600VA torid and works no house dim lights I was afraid that the fuse might blow up but that didn't happen the circuit is from diyaudio.com but I think the timer is too fast I'm not sure is this is correct it should be a bit slower right?
grey large caps is 1uF (timer cap)
two resistors 220 ohm and 1M ohm
supply electrolytic cap is 1000uF 50V DC
input AC voltage is 117V
I was afraid that the fuse might blow up but that didn't happen the circuit is from diyaudio.com but I think the timer is too fast I'm not sure is this is correct it should be a bit slower right?grey large caps is 1uF (timer cap)
two resistors 220 ohm and 1M ohm
supply electrolytic cap is 1000uF 50V DC
input AC voltage is 117V
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hello guys I tested the soft star yesterday with my 600VA torid and works no house dim lights
grey large caps is 1uF (timer cap)
two resistors 220 ohm and 1M ohm
supply electrolytic cap is 1000uF 50V DC
input AC voltage is 117V
Hello Vargas,
The 1000uF is supposed to the timer cap.
1000uF should give about 300-400ms softstart delay, which should be ok to limit the in-rush current. Andrew_T had mentioned this a long time ago if I remember correctly.
regards
Prasi
hello guys I tested the soft star yesterday with my 600VA torid and works no house dim lights
Vargas, looking at your photo, do you use coax cable forAC, not good if so, dangerous!
grey large caps is 1uF (timer cap)
two resistors 220 ohm and 1M ohm
supply electrolytic cap is 1000uF 50V DC
input AC voltage is 117V
Looking good, you are almost there !! I hope you are buying a chassis because building a good chassis from scratch is the biggest job !!
thank you
I'm not sure what I'm gonna do I was thinking to mix wood and metal on the chassis but since this is gonna be heavy I need a metal frame and wood but a mean good wood maybe just the front of the chassis I'm really happy after so many years practice and reading here is time for me to enjoy one complete amplifier with all the stuff that I learned here from you guys many members help a lot here Vargas
I do not know what the Greenamp sounds like , but if it sounds like the KND that I have build then you will be happy.
oh I forgot to mention that is the last design from Ostripper and I think his still working on another one that is gonna use SMD devices I'm not an expert but the sound of the Greenamp is really good
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ARC WELDER
HELLO VARGAS THAT PROTECTION OF SPEAKERS USES
hello guys this is what I have so far two Arc Welders two Greenamps soft star, power supply, speaker protector from G. Randy Slone circuit and the new 600VA toroid that after rectification y got 66V DC
HELLO VARGAS THAT PROTECTION OF SPEAKERS USES
hello guys this is what I have so far two Arc Welders two Greenamps soft star, power supply, speaker protector from G. Randy Slone circuit and the new 600VA toroid that after rectification y got 66V DC
Have you finished the build of the parts shown here? Just Wondering.
Have had these baby slewmaster laying around for some years.
It's time to make an enclosure for them.
The IPS are Kypton V. I'm also putting a BSTRD tube pre-amp in the box.
The transformer comes from a HK 690. 500va and 55v at the filter caps if I remember correctly.
It's time to make an enclosure for them.
The IPS are Kypton V. I'm also putting a BSTRD tube pre-amp in the box.
The transformer comes from a HK 690. 500va and 55v at the filter caps if I remember correctly.
