Finally got all the pieces done. I want to share this with everyone. It looks better than I expected since I am a complete noob when it comes to woodworking.
Now my questions are:
1. For stuffing, can I just cut open a cushion or pillow and use the cotton inside?
2. Do I need any electronics added to the speakers terminals or just a straight speaker wires from the speakers to the terminals?
. thanks in advance!
Now my questions are:
1. For stuffing, can I just cut open a cushion or pillow and use the cotton inside?
2. Do I need any electronics added to the speakers terminals or just a straight speaker wires from the speakers to the terminals?
. thanks in advance!
Oops, your pics didn't work, at least not for me, would love to see them.
I just used old pillow stuffing in my TABAQs, or this: High Grade - 1 Kilo kg - Hollow Fibre Stuffing/Filling / Fill Toys, Pillows, Cushion Covers: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home Seems to work as good as the stuff you find on audio sites, for a fraction of the price...
Your second question is a bit of a can of worms. Did you read up on BSC in this thread? Many say you need it, some say you don't, and it very much depends on your driver, speaker position, and your taste...
I just used old pillow stuffing in my TABAQs, or this: High Grade - 1 Kilo kg - Hollow Fibre Stuffing/Filling / Fill Toys, Pillows, Cushion Covers: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home Seems to work as good as the stuff you find on audio sites, for a fraction of the price...
Your second question is a bit of a can of worms. Did you read up on BSC in this thread? Many say you need it, some say you don't, and it very much depends on your driver, speaker position, and your taste...
If you use pillow stuffing, make sure you spread it.
Don't leave it as a thick blob of polyester. Stretch it in all directions to thin it out, then spread that in the top 75% of the line. Might not be too easy if your towers are already glued up.
And as mentioned for the BSC, it will depend on the driver you used, how far from the wall behind you will place them, and your taste.
Don't leave it as a thick blob of polyester. Stretch it in all directions to thin it out, then spread that in the top 75% of the line. Might not be too easy if your towers are already glued up.
And as mentioned for the BSC, it will depend on the driver you used, how far from the wall behind you will place them, and your taste.
Thanks all for the quick responses!
I am using the Tang Band w5-2143 and it will be placed 1½ to 2 feet away from the wall with back firing.
Try again and see if the photos work now.
I haven't glue the boards yet so it should be okay for me. I am planning to add two wood sticks on the 75% top line mark just to prevent the stuffing from falling to the bottom. How much stuffs should I add to each speaker?
I am using the Tang Band w5-2143 and it will be placed 1½ to 2 feet away from the wall with back firing.
THANKS!
Having read a good half or more of this thread I am interested to build a pair. I have pairs of MA CHBW70, and CHP70.2 here.
They both have it's around 0.5
CHBW70 has Fs of 66 whilst the CHP70.2 has Fs 72Hz.
I know this will effect the tuning of the port but done think that either of these will be a good candidate for the Tabaq. I may need to add a tweeter for added highs.
I also have TB W3-871 here also but I thought maybe the MA will give me more LF.
They both have it's around 0.5
CHBW70 has Fs of 66 whilst the CHP70.2 has Fs 72Hz.
I know this will effect the tuning of the port but done think that either of these will be a good candidate for the Tabaq. I may need to add a tweeter for added highs.
I also have TB W3-871 here also but I thought maybe the MA will give me more LF.
Hi,
I have finish the first TABAQ with RS100-8.
This is the measures at 10cm of distance (sum of driver and vent).
Seems to be very good, and seems that BSC is not necessary.
Hi bambinz, I have also built tabaq with RS100-8, but the sound is lacking of something... I cannot express in words but this aluminium cone in direct comparisson is not as "pure" as PS95-8. I cannot measure, as my measuring gear is not up to the task.
How do you describe the sound yourself?
labas brolau!
Same strange thing: I have made 2 folded tabaq-like speakers with the same line dimensions, but they sound different. One of them is folded like Z pattern, other like snail, G. Both of them have vent in front.
The "G" sounded a little better.
I have tried with Ikea cheapest pillow materials and some monacor stuff. In both cases 110g to my taste is too much. Material is polypropylene in both. In two folded Tabaq variations (with PS95-8 and RS100-8, 4 total possible combinations) I think smth 40-80g range for PS95 and 60-100g for RS100 is ok, but my versions are not pure Tabaq anymore, as they are folded in different ways and I have made a hole for variable vent length - it is just simple pvc pipe of ~36mm inner, 40mm outer diameter.
By stuffing more the sound will be more mellow, but you will lose more details. By combining with variable vent lenght the variants are pretty limitless, as the change of 1cm of vent lenght is audible AND this also requires to readjust stuffing.
If I start this build now the first thing I would buy variable vent tubes of similar cross section as the variations affect the sound even more than different stuffing amount.
EDIT: the vents could be a little smaller, ~1/4 to 1/3 of speaker cone area is ok for normal listening levels of 3' or 4' speakers
Last edited:
Go with the MA CHBW70 in the original TABAQ.
It goes a tad lower at 33cm from the top, which leaves you space to add a tweeter with a 2+uF capacitor on it. Add resistor if needed to pad the tweeter down. Choose a tweeter with a sealed back chamber for the easiest setup.
Attachments
Perceval, can you explain to me how you get the Transmission line loudspeaker wizard in Hornresp? I just can't find that option...
Once you are in the Input Parameter window, after keying in your driver's data, click on Tools, and look for Loudspeaker Wizard.
It will allow you to change csa or length of the line, along with filling and vent size.
OK, thanks. I have used the Loudspeaker wizard, but never managed to make it say Transmission line at the top like in your screenshot...
Sorry if this info has already been posted, the thread is quite long to search at this point.
It looks like there are some options for building differently than the schematic on audioexpress. Are there any guidelines for doing so? For instance, Bchiu2000 just built a model that has a totally different port/base design. That particular design might be beneficial to me.
I'd also like to attempt a different shape, kind of like Sound Sommeliers. Is that an option?
Any help is appreciated.
It looks like there are some options for building differently than the schematic on audioexpress. Are there any guidelines for doing so? For instance, Bchiu2000 just built a model that has a totally different port/base design. That particular design might be beneficial to me.
I'd also like to attempt a different shape, kind of like Sound Sommeliers. Is that an option?
Any help is appreciated.
For an OD or OD1 design, the caption changes from "Offset Driver Horn Loudspeaker Wizard" to "Transmission Line Loudspeaker Wizard" when absorbent filling material is added.
Ah, OK, makes sense. Thanks, David, and thanks for all the work on the app as well. I'm just starting to use it after using the Leonard Audio software for a while, so I'll get there...and I better stop using this thread for support, and post on the Hornresp thread in the future!