Hi luigiman,
For questions on the operation and use of Hornresp, that's the way to go for sure. After first reading the Help file, of course
.Stay safe!
David
I am planning to build Tabaq with Visaton FRS8-8. After a lot of reading, I have a few questions. Could someone please clarify a couple of things for me?
What is the cross section of both the 3" and 4" Tabaq? As this seems to be the only measurement that differs between the two. I've seen some mention the FRS8 should go in 4" design. Not sure which I should do.
Which port are we supposed to use? There's the original and the updated centered port.
Long ago there was a suggestion that the build for FRS8 should have stuffing in final 1/3. Still true?
What is the cross section of both the 3" and 4" Tabaq? As this seems to be the only measurement that differs between the two. I've seen some mention the FRS8 should go in 4" design. Not sure which I should do.
Which port are we supposed to use? There's the original and the updated centered port.
Long ago there was a suggestion that the build for FRS8 should have stuffing in final 1/3. Still true?
Thanks. Sorry, that's the wrong version. I meant FRS8M. All questions still hold true.
What is the cross section of both the 3" and 4" Tabaq? As this seems to be the only measurement that differs between the two. I've seen some mention the FRS8M should go in 4" design. Not sure which I should do.
Which port are we supposed to use? There's the original and the updated centered port.
Long ago there was a suggestion that the build for FRS8M should have stuffing in final 1/3. Still true?
I think Bjorn might have been drinking some good wine that night!
Pull out the original TABAQ pdf, and the TABAQ Update 2 pdf, and you will see that both dimensions are the same, being 10x12.8cm, or 128cm2.
The only difference is the way the vent is configured. a bit shorter for 3" drivers, a bit longer for 4" drivers.
Pull out the original TABAQ pdf, and the TABAQ Update 2 pdf, and you will see that both dimensions are the same, being 10x12.8cm, or 128cm2.
The only difference is the way the vent is configured. a bit shorter for 3" drivers, a bit longer for 4" drivers.
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Thanks for this Perceval....I didnt see your reply at the time sorry.
Great I shall look into this further now.
2uf for 4 or 8ohm tweeter?
I think Bjorn might have been drinking some good wine that night!
Pull out the original TABAQ pdf, and the TABAQ Update 2 pdf, and you will see that both dimensions are the same, being 10x12.8cm, or 128cm2.
The only difference is the way the vent is configured. a bit shorter for 3" drivers, a bit longer for 4" drivers.
Thanks. I really do appreciate the assistance. Recently, others have pointed out that original vent is a different shape than the updated shorter vent. The start of the original vent is 3.8cm and then tapers to 1.6cm. Understandably, errors have occurred before and I am left to wonder if that is correct or not.
I'm not trying to be a pain. But I am trying to get rock solid information. I would really like to build this very cool speaker, though I can't afford to do it multiple times.
Sorry, but I have no idea where you picked up that the vent tapers.
Rock solid info? Very easy.
Get the pdf, read that, build it. Solid.
Hi Irishpatrick33,
I understand your concern and somehow you are right, me too when I came to know Tabaq I really couldn't figured out what to do, then I start read the all thread and asking help, Bjorn and Perceval they really kind and helpful but at times answers are different or with discrepancies so make the all thing more difficult.
Then sometimes some other members like in #1364 make a suggestion for hypothetical better performance, Bjorn sometimes approve the idea sometimes not, still the design that is matter and right, is the one signed by Bjorn. I saw lot of time Bjorn say " this modification or mistake is not a big deal" or " is not a big problem " we are talking sometimes about few millimeters.
When I built my second Tabaq for the Faital 4FE32 Bjorn suggest to be sticky with the Original Tabaq design, still I did some experiment with the updated port and realise that in one way or the other nothing was changing or maybe change but really impossible to ear it so I decided to do the exact Original Tabaq design and I am super happy with it, what is really changing the bass response is the stuffing, oh yes you can really ear the difference.
So the modus operandi here is pick the driver and see what is the best Tabaq design for it but stay with the approved design's.
By the way about the start of the port in the original Tabaq I was the one bring out on post #2841 that is 38mm and not 16mm, this because some members made a wrong calculation of it, but if you look the original design by Bjorn there was no mistake at all.....all the best
Irishpatrick – we would like you to also experience TABAQ magic by building a set using the correct plans. Hopefully kissabout brought you some clarity. Forget about tapered ports, and yes, there are small differences, but they don't seem to make much difference to the magic.
Your Visaton FRS 8 M drivers are 3.3”, have 125Hz Fs and 0.49 Qts. So, you should use any of the plans for 3” drivers. Please go and check these posts again:
#1501 – Bjorn’s updated plan for 3” drivers (Use the plan on page 2 of 4, and delete page 4)
#1505 – Driver and stuffing guide
#1507 – Port example
#1651 – More nice plans for 3” drivers
Your Visaton FRS 8 M drivers are 3.3”, have 125Hz Fs and 0.49 Qts. So, you should use any of the plans for 3” drivers. Please go and check these posts again:
#1501 – Bjorn’s updated plan for 3” drivers (Use the plan on page 2 of 4, and delete page 4)
#1505 – Driver and stuffing guide
#1507 – Port example
#1651 – More nice plans for 3” drivers
The design I built is good in term of the port is built as an add-on module to the main chamber vs the other designs having the port built together with the main chamber.
The down side is that you don't get the clean look like having one clean baffle from top to bottom. You can always veneer it later for a clean look. And for this design you need to cut out 8 more small boards. I don't have a table saw so I ended up with 8 boards with different lengths and widths (not by much) which is not the most aesthetic. But since you are building the sound sommelier, this would be the exact design.
Search all my posts in this thread and you will find the building plan in PDF that the original creator put together.
I built my TABAQ from two Ikea bookshelves that I picked up for free on Craigslist. Not only you save $20-$40 but you save some trees by giving those old bookshelves a new life instead.
You also ended up with speakers with nice laminated surface if you are not planning to paint them.
One tip though about gluing laminated surface is that it doesn't glue well. I had the two sides came off clean after I glued them. So the trick is to take a knife and scratch the bonding area as much as possible before gluing.
You also ended up with speakers with nice laminated surface if you are not planning to paint them.
One tip though about gluing laminated surface is that it doesn't glue well. I had the two sides came off clean after I glued them. So the trick is to take a knife and scratch the bonding area as much as possible before gluing.
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Thanks for the info. Just curious how do you evenly distribute stuffing in the top 3/4 of the chamber? With 110g, I can barely fill it up to the top. I assume having 40g, it will only fill up to the middle leaving the top half of the speaker empty.
Finally, after a long way, I finished my first build. I have to say I'm amazed by the sound, although it's my first time with a full-range too and I can't be objective.
I think that the W5-2143 are a good match for the TPA3251. And what a bass
I think that the W5-2143 are a good match for the TPA3251. And what a bass
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Uncross the fingers the 3FE22 is one of the best 3" driver, you cannot get wrong, also with 91dB sensitivity wow is not a joke, you will really enjoy the music I envy you......all the best