Hi perseval know I'm not wesayso but here some idea and examples
.Its pretty easy create sims in REW based on IR wav files of band passes created in Rephase which is method used below and also good as target responses when calibrating live speaker system.
First one have sharpest roll off for sub and softest roll off for midtweeter and second one has opposite scheme, and as can be seen the more HF material sub include the more sharp non wide IR and the less the HF material is the more wide and wooley is IR.
Technically below sims are close to wesayso's system in that sum is 17Hz-18kHz band pass with a B&K curve. Slopes maybe looks bit weird and they low order that's because they comes from weird experiment trying let a two way system do what a 3 way B&O hole filler system normal do, so in first example woofer slope response is same as in the 3-way system but midtweeter slope response include both filler and tweeter from the 3-wayer and in the second example roles are opposite so that woofer slope response include mid filler. These IIR slopes can give transient perfect system without having to use FIR DSP but in its uneven order they not in phase at XO point which lead to tilted acoustic lobe in WT config where WTW config will help correct the acoustic tilt.
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Looks nice. But from what I read, it only takes 2-channel input and can split them into 10 channels of outputs.
Also, no mention of the AD/DA chips used.
I'd like to have something that will take either 2 channel input OR multi-channel inputs, USB or HDMI, allow me to split or apply filters to different channels and feed that into amp modules.
Looks like the MOTU 8a or 16a with their Sabre DAC are still my best bet... unfortunately, not available in my country!
It is 2 channel input as it is designed as a music crossover board.
The AD/DA is a Cirrus 42428 very similar to the minidsp 4x8 and 4x10. It sounds good and is well implemented. The CS3318 multichannel analogue volume control is also nice.
There is no ideal hardware for multichannel active, the newer MOTU interfaces are some of best available for that purpose but pricey.
I don't know the import restrictions in Taiwan but Thomann will ship anything and their international delivery prices are quite reasonable. I got my Scarlett 18i20 from another german place, music store professional because Thomann were out of stock. No VAT as it is exported and no tax in Australia if it is under $1000 so the price was good.
The website is up but some other members have had difficulty contacting Nick, which is why I made the comment. For what I am using it for the Najda is a really great board.
I think we need to get back to subwoofing now...
Byrtt to the rescue
...
I think we need to get back to subwoofing now...
Personal like the info you share and your diy builds looks really great and good gear
Personal like the info you share and your diy builds looks really great and good gear
+1 on that.
Modushop make some very nice aluminium enclosures and they can fit quite a few Hypex modules in. They have different sizes with more or less heatsink and come in black as well to match the rest of your gear. The chassis can be quite an expensive part but I think they are worth the cost.
This is inspirational
. I could replace my Pioneer A-447 (which powers the ambient channels) with UcD 180 modules and integrate 2x UcD 400 for bass while leaving room for future experiments (like ambient tweeters).A while ago I saved a link to this enclosure (mimicking a Pass Labs amp)
Figuring it could hold everything in a single amp. First One Large for mains, Ucd for all the rest. Still think it's a bit too bling bling for me though.
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I just remembered something Lazy Cat mentioned a while ago. Why not re-use an old amp to hold the new components? I'd be willing to sacrifice the Pioneer A-447 (which I bought cheap) to hold the ambient + sub channels and still have room to spare for future experiments.
I don't see myself replacing my A-757 Mark II anytime soon as it's in superb condition (well maintained) and I still have absolute faith in it's performance.
That way I get to keep the same look and size, might be able to re-issue the on/off switch and "on" led. Volume control is not used anyway.
Meanwhile a late birthday present arrived, can't wait to listen to it!
I pré-ordered this "Earbook" with autograph. (got to support your local heroes right?)
For a quick taste preview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFuMKdrzPqU
I don't see myself replacing my A-757 Mark II anytime soon as it's in superb condition (well maintained) and I still have absolute faith in it's performance.
That way I get to keep the same look and size, might be able to re-issue the on/off switch and "on" led. Volume control is not used anyway.
Meanwhile a late birthday present arrived, can't wait to listen to it!
I pré-ordered this "Earbook" with autograph. (got to support your local heroes right?)
For a quick taste preview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFuMKdrzPqU
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Epic!
Thanks for sharing.
Edit: You managed to get the signed copy of the Earbook before the official release date? Awesome. Happy Birthday!
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Personal like the info you share and your diy builds looks really great and good gear
+1 on that.
Thanks guys!
This is inspirational
A while ago I saved a link to this enclosure (mimicking a Pass Labs amp)
Figuring it could hold everything in a single amp. First One Large for mains, Ucd for all the rest. Still think it's a bit too bling bling for me though.
Sounds like a good idea, I have bought some chassis from ebay and more recently directly from taobao, very good quality but the shipping gets to be expensive. You also do not want anything else in a case with a First One amp of any size, they get hot. The 6 channel First One I am building is in a 5U chassis and I will be putting a couple of fans in at low speed just to keep some airflow. SMPS get pretty hot too, keeping the temperature down is what allows them to produce more power without shutting down.
You could do that easily, I would gut it completely as the power supply doesn't look like something a first timer should try and rework. That is a step up from plugging together Hypex modules! You could probably sell the individual parts from the inside on ebay for more than you paid for the amp
You might be able to reuse the connector holes by using TRS Jack plugs instead of XLR's depending on the size. The Hypex amps work well by using a pseudo balanced cable which needs a 3 pin connector on the amp end to work.
The on off switch will depend on what type and rating it is, you can always rig it up to a Hypex soft start board then you can use any switch you like.
If you decide to try and you want some help you know where I am
Meanwhile a late birthday present arrived, can't wait to listen to it!
I pré-ordered this "Earbook" with autograph. (got to support your local heroes right?)
For a quick taste preview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFuMKdrzPqU
Well, that was a 13:18 well spent!
Thanks for sharing... I'll look them ( him? with loads of help from others) up. Sounds like something I'd like to listen to. I'm so tired of hearing J-pop, K-pop and all it's variant!
You could do that easily, I would gut it completely as the power supply doesn't look like something a first timer should try and rework. That is a step up from plugging together Hypex modules! You could probably sell the individual parts from the inside on ebay for more than you paid for the amp
You might be able to reuse the connector holes by using TRS Jack plugs instead of XLR's depending on the size. The Hypex amps work well by using a pseudo balanced cable which needs a 3 pin connector on the amp end to work.
The on off switch will depend on what type and rating it is, you can always rig it up to a Hypex soft start board then you can use any switch you like.
If you decide to try and you want some help you know where I am
Yes, the idea would be to totally gut the amp and use the switch as some kind of relay switch. The soft start board sounds like an idea.
Sadly, I have no balanced out on the Xonar Essence ST extension board which would supply the signals to the amp.
It is 2 channel input as it is designed as a music crossover board.
The AD/DA is a Cirrus 42428 very similar to the minidsp 4x8 and 4x10. It sounds good and is well implemented. The CS3318 multichannel analogue volume control is also nice.
There is no ideal hardware for multichannel active, the newer MOTU interfaces are some of best available for that purpose but pricey.
I don't know the import restrictions in Taiwan but Thomann will ship anything and their international delivery prices are quite reasonable. I got my Scarlett 18i20 from another german place, music store professional because Thomann were out of stock. No VAT as it is exported and no tax in Australia if it is under $1000 so the price was good.
The website is up but some other members have had difficulty contacting Nick, which is why I made the comment. For what I am using it for the Najda is a really great board.
I think we need to get back to subwoofing now...
This thread has now become a pot-pourri of very valuable information, and although hard to find it again, I'm very grateful to all who have contributed to make this thread a little like a home away on the internet for all of us, audio geeks!
So, thank you for the replies and info.
In Taiwan, we can import up to $500 without taxes... and yes, the Motu 8a interface is a little pricey at $800, but still so much less than things from Apollo, RME, Antelope, Lynx, etc...
Hi perseval know I'm not wesayso but here some idea and examples
Thanks Byrtt! I mentioned wesayso, because he was looking at subs lately, but your replies are good too!
I've been testing a couple of 15" woofer/subs I get around here. Trying to find a good one is not so easy. And shipping 15" drivers is crazy!
Here's a couple I got... I think the red one looks better than the blue. Both were taken without any filter. I just ran a sweep as is, mounted on an open baffle.
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You don't need a balanced output, the greatest benefit is the balanced input. That is why I said pseudo balanced, single ended output differential input. That is how I connect the Najda to the Hypex amps.
It gives you about 40dB of common mode noise rejection instead of 90dB for differential or 0dB for purely single ended.
Tom CHR who designs the Neurochrome amps did some testing of this with his Audio Precision to show it is not just theory.
Here is the Hypex wiring diagram.
https://www.hypex.nl/img/upload/doc/an_wp/AN_Amplifier_signal_wiring.pdf
If you build the 400's for sub amps it would be interesting to see how the lines go with more power (up to 240w 8 ohms)
Thanks Byrtt! I mentioned wesayso, because he was looking at subs lately, but your replies are good too!
I've been testing a couple of 15" woofer/subs I get around here. Trying to find a good one is not so easy. And shipping 15" drivers is crazy!
Here's a couple I got... I think the red one looks better than the blue. Both were taken without any filter. I just ran a sweep as is, mounted on an open baffle.
Which one would be better is a matter of opinion. The red one shows more high frequencies.
.The blue one more resembles what I'd expect a sub to do without any filtering.
Which one would be better is a matter of opinion. The red one shows more high frequencies.
The blue one more resembles what I'd expect a sub to do without any filtering.
yes, the red one is a "fullrange 15" with a Fs of 35Hz, and capable of reaching 10kHz
Opinion it is then. When used as a sub only, the red one is sharper, bass it tighter, more snap. The blue is not so fast and seems slow at keeping the beat.
I've had some nice measurements done tonight while trying a different approach, based on the Manzanita OB woofers, using a low 65Hz first order. Feeling happy here!