Agree on phase issues - I see no such problem with YJ. Swapped once both speakers polarity occasionally and that was barely noticeble (sound is just not right, dunno how to explain) but anyway bass is ok with this board. Probably less quality amp one used to could present some boominess which could be interpreted as "richer" bass... but it is not. Even UCD180 sound a bit boomy compared to this board.
I've bought a dozen of them over the past 6 months, they are all the same. If you follow the path of the Right Input connector, it indeed feeds the Right Input of the Chip (Pin 4) but it's output pins (Pins 27 & 29) feed the Left Output connector.
So if you connect your inputs and outputs following the screenprinting on the board for the Left and Right inputs and outputs, they will be swapped.
I guess it's possible they have corrected the silkscreening at the input header, but I seriously doubt it.
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SO........the binding posts need to be reversed on mine? Connect L to the Right binding post, etc.?
Geeze, always something with these it seems!
MW
I think it's easier to just swap channels at the input so that the physical output layout remains logical, but if it's already installed in something, then swap at the outputs.
The board is non-inverting so phase polarity is fine. It's just the channel designation that is reversed.
Serious ?
I mean, look at the size of this board
This amplifier has enough of hiss with smt components on a tiny PCB.
This big board with lots of trough hole components and the extra, unused pcb space is only going to provide you with much more parasitic inductance, hiss and crap...
This board is exactly what we should avoid .
Or you can switch the input RCA. Well, this should not affect the quality of the sound though. Besides, if you have not heard the music before, you do not even know what should be on the left and what's on the right channel.
Regards,
Serious ?
I mean, look at the size of this board
This amplifier has enough of hiss with smt components on a tiny PCB.
This big board with lots of trough hole components and the extra, unused pcb space is only going to provide you with much more parasitic inductance, hiss and crap...
This board is exactly what we should avoid .
Well, size wise, how does this one compare to the YJ? In my system, I could not hear any hiss or excess noise using the red YJ board (2.0), which admittedly has a lot of space on the PCB. Granted my speaker is only 87dB sensitive, not a 100 dB horn. Most people on this thread are using the YJ board, any comments on hisses and noise?
Regards,
Most of the speakers I've used are in the 89-92 range as well but no noise that you can hear without putting your ear up against the tweeter.
Something close to what you can see by the picture.
With the yj boards I still have hiss even with 87dB speakers.
[]'s
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Serious ?
I mean, look at the size of this board
This amplifier has enough of hiss with smt components on a tiny PCB.
This big board with lots of trough hole components and the extra, unused pcb space is only going to provide you with much more parasitic inductance, hiss and crap...
This board is exactly what we should avoid .
I'll take my chances.
Strangely, I don't think this is the case on my board ... ? Of course, I can be wrong, but I checked everything and it seems that left speaker is connected to left output and left soundcard output is connected to the left input of the board.
My balance fader still works as it should. The only thing I can think of is that the balance of my soundcard is somehow reversed, but that would be strange.
My board is about one month old. It has the new style heatsink.
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![DSC_0757[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/358/358671-6dc44fcd1e7d46c90195161929044793.jpg)
I thin the confusion on the YJ board is that they are logically changed. The side that has the right input has the left output and the side that has the left input has the right output. Doesn't necessarily mean they are changed around though.
If you put the card with inputs on top it reads:
L - 0 - R, for the inputs and
R- - R+ - L- - L+, for the outputs.
If you put the card with inputs on top it reads:
L - 0 - R, for the inputs and
R- - R+ - L- - L+, for the outputs.