Hi XRK and all. I still haven't build my amp, but I still have my PCB
Actually I'm in own houses business, sell here and I will build a little new one in the next months. New one will have a partial solar installation, I think based on Pylontech US3000 lithium battery.
As I'd like to avoid DC-AC-DC conversion for my TPA, and that lithium unit works almost with 48V, I'd like to have your point of view on that.
It seems US3000 can rise up to 53.5V (45 ~ 53,5) depending on its charge, do you think it will be safe for the TPA if I plug these two together ?
I don't know if I'll need caps between the Pylontech unit and the TPA PCB cause there will be a few meters between them, how many µF do you think if needed ?
I don't find a lot of advices on this particular configuration so perhaps you can help me
I think your biggest problem would be sharing the ground connection with the power conversion and audio. It seems like noise would be a problem.
tommost
Are you sure that the Pylontech is not itself a DC-DC converter you achieve 48v? It looks like it can use a variety of external battery packs of different configurations. That Pylontech seems a nice unit but quite expensive. I am betting it’s got SMPS DC-DC switching going on inside for management.
Only way to know is to try if we don’t have schematics or description of internal topology of Pylontech. I looked at datasheet and it looks like a smart switch mode controller to me.
You are better off getting a dedicated $70 Pb acid and a 1200w DC-DC stepup for $15 that I I have verified works and is noise free.
Recall, the “audio grade” Connexelectronic SMPS was abysmal on noise performance. Possibly the noisiest PSU I have ever touched in my life. While the DC-DC and AC/DC SMPS for LEDs was dead quiet.
Only way to know is to try if we don’t have schematics or description of internal topology of Pylontech. I looked at datasheet and it looks like a smart switch mode controller to me.
You are better off getting a dedicated $70 Pb acid and a 1200w DC-DC stepup for $15 that I I have verified works and is noise free.
Recall, the “audio grade” Connexelectronic SMPS was abysmal on noise performance. Possibly the noisiest PSU I have ever touched in my life. While the DC-DC and AC/DC SMPS for LEDs was dead quiet.
Sorry this is taking so long. The assembly house ran into a problem with the placement - they had a 4 legged part (shutdown supervisor) rotated 90 deg and it took a while to figure this out. Hopefully testing tomorrow will reveal that is the problem and all works. If that is a go, we will proceed to full production. Again, apologies for how long this is taking. My one lesson now is that all production fully assembled boards takes 3x longer than quoted lead time. No matter how small the project is.
Thanks for your patience and understanding.
Thats fine by me. Biggest issue will be getting the Aliexpress AC/DC SMPS for LEDs. Ordered almost 2 months ago and still hasn't shipped. No doubt due to the coronavirus.
I'm on the list for a completed amp board when they arrive. I'm placing a small Mouser order for all the molex connectors (mostly female, but some males as well), and the required pins. I don't have any on hand. Are there any other external parts, I will need for the board that aren't obvious? Just want to make sure I have everything before it arrives.
Regarding a HS, or HSF.... You've shown several different styles and sizes throughout the thread, including one low-profile CPU cooler. Image attached. Do you have a link to this particular one? I've been searching some this afternoon and can't find anywhere. Will keep searching. I'm not sure exactly how I will mounting it, but would like to have it on hand just in case. Noted that you had a 60Hz hum with it attached to AUX PSU.
Just want to make sure I have everything before it arrives.Regarding a HS, or HSF.... You've shown several different styles and sizes throughout the thread, including one low-profile CPU cooler. Image attached. Do you have a link to this particular one? I've been searching some this afternoon and can't find anywhere. Will keep searching. I'm not sure exactly how I will mounting it, but would like to have it on hand just in case. Noted that you had a 60Hz hum with it attached to AUX PSU.
Attachments
Yes, that’s it. I used a couple of Faston spade terminals as the copper spacers to elevate the heatsink above the components. Just drill and tap two M3 threads at the specified spacing. I used a 100R 2W resistor to slow the fan down. But if you have a conventional heatsink you will be fine for most playing. I needed it when doing the full power 190w test. That’s about 20w per channel or 40w if running both.
Yes, the cpu cooler is mounted so close to the amp that if it has any hum, that leaks into the signal. When I powered it from the on-board 12v LDO output, it was silent. I did not see any sign of noise from the fan in the FFT either.
Other things to look for are standoffs tall enough to handle the board and bottom heatsink whether fan cooler or thermal block to conduct to main chassis panel. Remember that the thermal pad should be electrically isolated from the chassis. I used a ceramic transistor spacer pad and thermal paste.
Other nice things to have include a 2pin Molex KK female plug to a momentary push button switch to reset the amp in case you hit an error. Clip or or over temp. Clip happens easily if hot plugging an XLR jack while amp is on.
Also, the amp is relatively low gain at 18.6dB. To reach clipping output requires a real preamp. Very few consumer audio sources can drive 3.2Vpp. Doesn’t seem like much but most sources are used to 29dB gain amps. So you need a preamp with an extra 10-12dB gain.
If you only have SE RCA outputs, get those Adafruit THAT1646 balanced output driver boards with built in TRS jacks. They just need +/-15v.
Yes, the cpu cooler is mounted so close to the amp that if it has any hum, that leaks into the signal. When I powered it from the on-board 12v LDO output, it was silent. I did not see any sign of noise from the fan in the FFT either.
Other things to look for are standoffs tall enough to handle the board and bottom heatsink whether fan cooler or thermal block to conduct to main chassis panel. Remember that the thermal pad should be electrically isolated from the chassis. I used a ceramic transistor spacer pad and thermal paste.
Other nice things to have include a 2pin Molex KK female plug to a momentary push button switch to reset the amp in case you hit an error. Clip or or over temp. Clip happens easily if hot plugging an XLR jack while amp is on.
Also, the amp is relatively low gain at 18.6dB. To reach clipping output requires a real preamp. Very few consumer audio sources can drive 3.2Vpp. Doesn’t seem like much but most sources are used to 29dB gain amps. So you need a preamp with an extra 10-12dB gain.
If you only have SE RCA outputs, get those Adafruit THAT1646 balanced output driver boards with built in TRS jacks. They just need +/-15v.
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Sorry, I deleted my original post. As soon as I posted igt I looked further down the Mouser page and found the various mating parts.
Hi Redjr and all Folks who ordered a RTR amp:
So sorry that this is taking so long. If any of you bought RTR SSRs from me, you will be familiar with the time it takes and that is a simple small board. My lesson-learned is that production of fully built boards takes an enormous lead time. The parts have been ordered and delivered to the assembly house in California. I had to order more boards as I did not have enough and they are about 2 days from finishing production. They will be express shipped via DHL so I should have them to the assembly factory by end of this week. The pick and place machines have been programmed and will be loaded and ready. Actual robotic assembly and reflow will take a few days. Then another few days for the through hole parts to be hand soldered. So, my estimate is 2 more weeks.
Thank you for your patience!
So sorry that this is taking so long. If any of you bought RTR SSRs from me, you will be familiar with the time it takes and that is a simple small board. My lesson-learned is that production of fully built boards takes an enormous lead time. The parts have been ordered and delivered to the assembly house in California. I had to order more boards as I did not have enough and they are about 2 days from finishing production. They will be express shipped via DHL so I should have them to the assembly factory by end of this week. The pick and place machines have been programmed and will be loaded and ready. Actual robotic assembly and reflow will take a few days. Then another few days for the through hole parts to be hand soldered. So, my estimate is 2 more weeks.
Thank you for your patience!
Great news folks. I just received the first verification unit back from the assembly house. It looks superbly well built and very neat. I tested it and it works great and sounds excellent. I will tell them to complete the rest of the amps. They should be all done soon.
Thanks for your patience.
Thanks for your patience.
