Wow Ernest!! You don’t waste any time 
Looks like you did a great job, just triple check the TPS7A39 regulator for solder bridges, they are the trickiest part of the boards. The pictures attached give an idea of how I connected them to Miro’s board using the DIP8 sockets and the unused 4.7nF cap location. I will check my notes and share my final setup when I get a chance. I tried the suggestion from Diyiggy to omit the second OPA861, but in my system, I do prefer the sound with both installed as per Pedja designed.
Wishing you a successful power up!!
Cheers,
Vunce
Looks like you did a great job, just triple check the TPS7A39 regulator for solder bridges, they are the trickiest part of the boards. The pictures attached give an idea of how I connected them to Miro’s board using the DIP8 sockets and the unused 4.7nF cap location. I will check my notes and share my final setup when I get a chance. I tried the suggestion from Diyiggy to omit the second OPA861, but in my system, I do prefer the sound with both installed as per Pedja designed.
Wishing you a successful power up!!
Cheers,
Vunce
Attachments
Just need to de-solder what is in the output feedback at the end, no needs to a new board !
Just follow Rogic recommendation : the 861 was chosen to avoid feedback, older designs with ad844 can make you doubt... It's the same with a darlington emitter follower regulator, if technic says the feedback is better towards the outputs, the listening says you quite the opposite.
Just follow Rogic recommendation : the 861 was chosen to avoid feedback, older designs with ad844 can make you doubt... It's the same with a darlington emitter follower regulator, if technic says the feedback is better towards the outputs, the listening says you quite the opposite.
This is C4 and C10?
I'll probably build a new board, as I want to keep the one I have
Keep one set of boards in stock form as a baseline, then build another set with the modifications you want to try so you can compare them easily.
Hi, I 've built this DAC, and I would like to share my experiences.
First of all my "primary" DAC is AD1865 with IV resistor, with SRPP 6N23P tube output stage. I like the huge holographic sound stage with warm colorful sound. I feeding this DAC from JLSound USB panel.
I put together this AD1862 DAC with Amanero on the digital side, and I turned it on. The first listening was so disappointing. I missed the imaging and the sound was so flat. I started to figure out why. I replaced the filter capacitor on the digital side to Oscons, earlier I had positive experience with it. Maybe t helped, but not much.
I tried different power supply, Salas UltraBiB, Diyaudio superreg, LT 3045/3094 etc. Not to much difference. I did measurements with RMAA, the measurement result was impressive (except the noise, and dynamic range) but something still missing.
At the end I tried to isolate Amanero I2S signal with ISO7460, and Yes, that was the problem.
Now I can say, for my ears the AD1865 with tube out is better, but this DAC is not far from it. And the comparison is not fair, because only the tube output stage of the other DAC is many times expensive than this project.
Summarize, thanks Miro for this great project, and happy building for everyone
First of all my "primary" DAC is AD1865 with IV resistor, with SRPP 6N23P tube output stage. I like the huge holographic sound stage with warm colorful sound. I feeding this DAC from JLSound USB panel.
I put together this AD1862 DAC with Amanero on the digital side, and I turned it on. The first listening was so disappointing. I missed the imaging and the sound was so flat. I started to figure out why. I replaced the filter capacitor on the digital side to Oscons, earlier I had positive experience with it. Maybe t helped, but not much.
I tried different power supply, Salas UltraBiB, Diyaudio superreg, LT 3045/3094 etc. Not to much difference. I did measurements with RMAA, the measurement result was impressive (except the noise, and dynamic range) but something still missing.
At the end I tried to isolate Amanero I2S signal with ISO7460, and Yes, that was the problem.
Now I can say, for my ears the AD1865 with tube out is better, but this DAC is not far from it. And the comparison is not fair, because only the tube output stage of the other DAC is many times expensive than this project.
Summarize, thanks Miro for this great project, and happy building for everyone
Attachments
What should be the value of r8?
... you got it Vunce
I m using now 680r?
Sounds good... should it be higher?
I have not tested it with the ad1862 yet.
@gaszto : congrats for the tube stage . May I ask which 6N23P type please ? did you find difference between the rocket logo one and others as EB type, etc. I'm looking to buy one for learning purpose not to waste expensive E88CC but I'm lost in all the quality and all the eBay shops : there are NOS, silver plate, brandnew ones from different plants, etc ! It's a culture I haven't unfornatully.
About the OSCON caps: I would avoid them in the oap stage, but it's ok in the numeric side of the AD1862 only. Results are different from an aop to another one while non of the oaps talked in the thread are bad.
Advice apreciated
@gaszto : congrats for the tube stage . May I ask which 6N23P type please ? did you find difference between the rocket logo one and others as EB type, etc. I'm looking to buy one for learning purpose not to waste expensive E88CC but I'm lost in all the quality and all the eBay shops : there are NOS, silver plate, brandnew ones from different plants, etc ! It's a culture I haven't unfornatully.
About the OSCON caps: I would avoid them in the oap stage, but it's ok in the numeric side of the AD1862 only. Results are different from an aop to another one while non of the oaps talked in the thread are bad.
Advice apreciated
Last edited:
SPDIF/Optical to I2S, almost THT, WM8804
Simple SPDIF/Optical to I2S, up to 24-B/192kHz. Jitter is 50ps, so it can be also used with modern delta-sigma DACs.
Transfer is asynchronous (clocks are generated directly in the WM8804).
It is almost THT, except for the WM8804, which is soldered from the bottom.
How to solder the smd IC: youtube IC soldering
Untested at the time of writing this post, so i can't guarantee the functionality right away
(The first post will be updated after testing.)
Components example, mouser:
IC1:238-WM8804GEDS
R7, R8, R9, R10:594-MBB02070C2209FCT
R2, R4:594-MBB02070C7509FCT
R1, R3, R5, R6:594-MBB02070C1002FC1
JP1, JP2, X5:571-5-146284-2
JP3:571-5-146285-3
X4:571-5-146268-4
Q1:520-ECS120-18-4X-CKM
C13, C14:81-RCE5C2A180J0A2H3B
C1, C3, C5, C7, C9, C10, C11:505-MKP2D031001FJO00
C12:505-MKS21.0/63/5
C15:667-EEU-FR1H100B
C2, C4, C6, C8:667-EEU-FR1E101
TR1:580-786013C
IC2, IC3:511-LF33ABV-DG
X1:651-1729128
X2:GP1FAV50RK0F Original and New SHARP Sensor | eBay
X3:502-PJRAN1X1U02AUX
(JP1, JP2, JP3):855-M7582-05
Simple SPDIF/Optical to I2S, up to 24-B/192kHz. Jitter is 50ps, so it can be also used with modern delta-sigma DACs.
Transfer is asynchronous (clocks are generated directly in the WM8804).
It is almost THT, except for the WM8804, which is soldered from the bottom.
How to solder the smd IC: youtube IC soldering
Untested at the time of writing this post, so i can't guarantee the functionality right away
(The first post will be updated after testing.)
Components example, mouser:
IC1:238-WM8804GEDS
R7, R8, R9, R10:594-MBB02070C2209FCT
R2, R4:594-MBB02070C7509FCT
R1, R3, R5, R6:594-MBB02070C1002FC1
JP1, JP2, X5:571-5-146284-2
JP3:571-5-146285-3
X4:571-5-146268-4
Q1:520-ECS120-18-4X-CKM
C13, C14:81-RCE5C2A180J0A2H3B
C1, C3, C5, C7, C9, C10, C11:505-MKP2D031001FJO00
C12:505-MKS21.0/63/5
C15:667-EEU-FR1H100B
C2, C4, C6, C8:667-EEU-FR1E101
TR1:580-786013C
IC2, IC3:511-LF33ABV-DG
X1:651-1729128
X2:GP1FAV50RK0F Original and New SHARP Sensor | eBay
X3:502-PJRAN1X1U02AUX
(JP1, JP2, JP3):855-M7582-05
Attachments
Hi Ernest,
OPA861 ver.A setup:
C4 - n/c
C10 - n/c
C9 - Panasonic ECHU Film
R8 - 560R
Good morning Vunce, ok, thanks.