What do I know?... (not being sarcastic [emoji3]) but looking at Elwood’s board. His are missing the R7 and his mounts don’t have traces creating chassis ground.
Pic below shows R7 and trace to mounting hole. 6L6’s finished amp also has the R7 and the trace to the mount hole for chassis ground.
Pic below shows R7 and trace to mounting hole. 6L6’s finished amp also has the R7 and the trace to the mount hole for chassis ground.
Once again, a couple of older boards slipped into production.
In the future I am going to throw away all older versions of boards...
Not to worry, R7 is just a "pro forma" redundancy on my part. The real
connection to the chassis is on the power supply board through the 5 ohm
power thermistor. Not having R7 makes no difference
Also note that output D+ on the output board became G on the later,
same connection.
Also, sharp eyed DIYer noted incorrect Digikey part # for the 10,000 uF
caps - it should be 1189-2739-ND
If there's any other confusion, let me know.
In the future I am going to throw away all older versions of boards...
Not to worry, R7 is just a "pro forma" redundancy on my part. The real
connection to the chassis is on the power supply board through the 5 ohm
power thermistor. Not having R7 makes no difference
Also note that output D+ on the output board became G on the later,
same connection.
Also, sharp eyed DIYer noted incorrect Digikey part # for the 10,000 uF
caps - it should be 1189-2739-ND
If there's any other confusion, let me know.
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I didn't take that pic, so I can't say if they're crimped or soldered. They don't look crimped in the pic.
@Cody - did you use those disconnects? The 2 I used last night for the switch were some crimps that I have on my bench that I reached for out of habit...
Can you share the part number on that light blue LED in case someone installs it backwards and lets out the magic smoke?
The other incident I had with mine, is the four 3mm bolts retaining the output board to the heat sink bottomed out before the heat sink was tight to the output board. I used an extra two 3mm flat washers on each bolt to prevent the bolts from bottoming. I found it by gently moving the output board, I was surprised when it moved. I think the grease between the heat sink and output board helped me find the bottoming bolts.
Yeah, I did the same – just use the same ole Panduit 'Discogrips' I always use.
Regarding the LED, I think any blue (or any other color), 5mm will do.
Just reading thru all the posts while I wait for my parts to arrive I'm curious regarding the RB7 power plug on the Meanwell.I was looking at the online info and it says the -ve terminals are attached to the AC FG which stands for AC Frame Ground which i'm assuming is the metal outer barrel of the plug.I don't know what the chassis receptacle for this plug is like but does it have a metal sleeve that attaches to the mounting screws of the receptacle? Reason I ask because if that's the case then the thermistor would be shorted out. A quick ohmeter check between the -ve terminal(s) and the chassis with the Meanwell plugged in would verify this.I just found this on the Meanwell info sheet "A type: Class I (with FG), IEC320-C14;" which is the 160W model we have,so it looks at face value that plug has the FG barrel attached to the -ve pins.
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