Okay, I could get some sort of 70w (osram) fluorescent light from
www.farnell.com but it's lacking some additional information so I really quite don't know too much about it. Doesn't cost anything though. They "support" several countries so can anyone take a look at there and tell if you get anything more of it.?
And now again some not-too-diy stuff:
Yesterday I bought again another ohp so I have now three different ohp:s, one is the first one where the fresnel is ****. Second one is old and ugly as hell but it's working better but it's not quite as powerful. I have been playing around with it now, it's quite cool though. Although I have learned now that not-too-high-quality (software low quality dvd w/640x480 panel) and not-too-bright but big screen is not very good after all when comparing to normal TV. TV is much more comfortable to watch really (not to mention the noise of the ohp and the lcd).
I have now a projection screen as well (one that reflects some light back to you, although not recommended to be used with lcd-projectors) and can get like 60" screen with it. To my wall I can get over 100" screen but it's not too bright with this ohp. With the first ohp it was better and I was supposed to watch a movie with it but then the fresnel got f*cked..
Anyway, this newest OHP is Medium 10Ke, should be _very_ powerful, I got it cheap since it's light has gone and new one costs nearly $200. So no use for me right now, but I am thinking of buying the bulb.
Does anyone know how long an monitor cable can be (in meters please or tell me how to convert feets to meters)? I was thinking buying 2 x 5 meter extension cables but will it work? My computer is next to the wall to where I want to project the screen so the LCD and the ohp needs to be in another end of the room but I don't want to move the computer there.
And btw., I have had to ask this for sometime now but always forgot: what does screendoor effect mean?
Anyway my diy-thing is not moving anywhere since I don't know how to house and cool it properly (being probably the only problem right now).
www.farnell.com but it's lacking some additional information so I really quite don't know too much about it. Doesn't cost anything though. They "support" several countries so can anyone take a look at there and tell if you get anything more of it.?
And now again some not-too-diy stuff:
Yesterday I bought again another ohp so I have now three different ohp:s, one is the first one where the fresnel is ****. Second one is old and ugly as hell but it's working better but it's not quite as powerful. I have been playing around with it now, it's quite cool though. Although I have learned now that not-too-high-quality (software low quality dvd w/640x480 panel) and not-too-bright but big screen is not very good after all when comparing to normal TV. TV is much more comfortable to watch really (not to mention the noise of the ohp and the lcd).
I have now a projection screen as well (one that reflects some light back to you, although not recommended to be used with lcd-projectors) and can get like 60" screen with it. To my wall I can get over 100" screen but it's not too bright with this ohp. With the first ohp it was better and I was supposed to watch a movie with it but then the fresnel got f*cked..
Anyway, this newest OHP is Medium 10Ke, should be _very_ powerful, I got it cheap since it's light has gone and new one costs nearly $200. So no use for me right now, but I am thinking of buying the bulb.
Does anyone know how long an monitor cable can be (in meters please or tell me how to convert feets to meters)? I was thinking buying 2 x 5 meter extension cables but will it work? My computer is next to the wall to where I want to project the screen so the LCD and the ohp needs to be in another end of the room but I don't want to move the computer there.
And btw., I have had to ask this for sometime now but always forgot: what does screendoor effect mean?
Anyway my diy-thing is not moving anywhere since I don't know how to house and cool it properly (being probably the only problem right now).
Screen door effect is when you differentiate between pixels, like when you get too close to your tv and you can see the pixel structure become more clear. Because we are magnifing everything on the LCD we see this to be more prevelent.
This is why it is important to get the smallest LCD sceen with the smallest pixels, or a system where line doubling can be performed.
This is one of the advantages of DMD or DLP projectors, the display element has millions of mirrors instead of pixels, 10 mirrors can fit on a grain of salt. DLPs can give a more film like presentation, but are not as sharp. The also have better contrast, 800:1.
This is why it is important to get the smallest LCD sceen with the smallest pixels, or a system where line doubling can be performed.
This is one of the advantages of DMD or DLP projectors, the display element has millions of mirrors instead of pixels, 10 mirrors can fit on a grain of salt. DLPs can give a more film like presentation, but are not as sharp. The also have better contrast, 800:1.
So, how was that LED whitelight light array going?
Does it project a good beam.
I read up on LED lights, and found that, even though they are extremely white, they do not "Project" the light beam like Krypton or Halogen light.
How is your LED light working, does it project a good beam, or is it just white?
Thanks
Does it project a good beam.
I read up on LED lights, and found that, even though they are extremely white, they do not "Project" the light beam like Krypton or Halogen light.
How is your LED light working, does it project a good beam, or is it just white?
Thanks
Just out of curiosity, regarding the so called "100inch TVs" - the ones where a box with fresnel lens is placed on a TV===
If instead of the fresnel, a projector lens was used, would that give it a clearer picture?
Cause with a good fresnel lens, you can get good pictures, it just a bit blurry - but very cheap.
I know this has nothing to do with this project, but i'm just curious.
Also, has anyone had good results with your diy projector?
What about you vince? Have you had good results with the final projection using the LED lights?
Does anyone know when whitelightled.com will reopen there site? They've been closed for ages - no info on there site at all
If instead of the fresnel, a projector lens was used, would that give it a clearer picture?
Cause with a good fresnel lens, you can get good pictures, it just a bit blurry - but very cheap.
I know this has nothing to do with this project, but i'm just curious.
Also, has anyone had good results with your diy projector?
What about you vince? Have you had good results with the final projection using the LED lights?
Does anyone know when whitelightled.com will reopen there site? They've been closed for ages - no info on there site at all
here you go type-e delta II lens 3 for 30$ on buy now http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1316945272
It's long...and probably wrong, but hey...I'm tryin...
OK, this is the way I see it (for what it is worth):
Halogens: Probably too much heat. This comes from the inefficiency of the bulb, the lower K rating (most below 5500K?), and the excess infrared spectrum radiation from the bulb? (also from the low K, or color temperature?)
LED's: Good sources of light in the correct spectrum, that is with white, ultra high output LED's that produce within the spectrum of 5000-6000K. From my understanding, from this forum and my experience with DIY reef aquaria lighting, the light quality is nice, but the quantity (intesity) is not good without large number of these things. But just wait a few years...
Fluorescents: These intrigue me. They really haven't been explored enough (as far as I'm concerned), and they have some potential. Sorry to use this analogy again, but in reef aquaria, high intensity, high quality lighting is needed to maintain health corals, and fluorescent lighting has been used successfully for years. Of course, the issue of point source and linear lighting must be addressed in this case, but lights such as the Lights of America (LOA) 65W Fluorex fixture produces around 6800 lumen (that's just a guess) at over 6000K. It has a fairly small footprint, and it seems that the light could be harnessed by a fresnel. With the high efficency of these lights, heat shouldn't be quite as big of a problem as compared to halogens or metal halides (read on...)
Metal Halides: These are popular (I think) with the commercial LCD projector crowd and also in reef aquaria. High intesity and various color temps (quality, point source light), but they can be pretty inefficient=heat problems. This can be overcome with "cold mirrors", IR filters, and fans, but I would love to beat the heat with just a more efficient light source. However, this might not be practical. I'm not really a practical guy. We'll see how it goes.
This color temp business is related to the predominant spectrum of the light, I think. I have seen 4100K lights that look reddish, and I've seen 6500K that look more white. Above that things start to look blue. This is from my marine aquarium experience, so take with a grain of salt .
Light technology seems to be making much progress over the last few years, and it's not slowing down. LED's are making big improvements, so they should be considered, especially as the efficiency improves.
I'm just looking for a suitable LCD screen at this point. I'm lost. Any ideas? Sources? Mobile LCDs? Laptop LCDs? I'm clueless. Hopefully somebody will chime in here.
Good luck to everybody with this project. I know I'm late to join the game, but I'm very enthusiastic about it. Please post any progress that you have made.
I'm with Anayet...after all of these post, has anyone had good results? Are there any websites that feature these projects? Vince's and dwalls32's are all I have to go on...thanks guys! Anyone else? Any confirmation of progress will give me motivation, so BRING IT ON!
ANY LCD SOURCES OR IDEAS? POST 'EM!!!
Thanks everybody...have fun with it.,
f4
OK, this is the way I see it (for what it is worth):
Halogens: Probably too much heat. This comes from the inefficiency of the bulb, the lower K rating (most below 5500K?), and the excess infrared spectrum radiation from the bulb? (also from the low K, or color temperature?)
LED's: Good sources of light in the correct spectrum, that is with white, ultra high output LED's that produce within the spectrum of 5000-6000K. From my understanding, from this forum and my experience with DIY reef aquaria lighting, the light quality is nice, but the quantity (intesity) is not good without large number of these things. But just wait a few years...
Fluorescents: These intrigue me. They really haven't been explored enough (as far as I'm concerned), and they have some potential. Sorry to use this analogy again, but in reef aquaria, high intensity, high quality lighting is needed to maintain health corals, and fluorescent lighting has been used successfully for years. Of course, the issue of point source and linear lighting must be addressed in this case, but lights such as the Lights of America (LOA) 65W Fluorex fixture produces around 6800 lumen (that's just a guess) at over 6000K. It has a fairly small footprint, and it seems that the light could be harnessed by a fresnel. With the high efficency of these lights, heat shouldn't be quite as big of a problem as compared to halogens or metal halides (read on...)
Metal Halides: These are popular (I think) with the commercial LCD projector crowd and also in reef aquaria. High intesity and various color temps (quality, point source light), but they can be pretty inefficient=heat problems. This can be overcome with "cold mirrors", IR filters, and fans, but I would love to beat the heat with just a more efficient light source. However, this might not be practical. I'm not really a practical guy. We'll see how it goes.
This color temp business is related to the predominant spectrum of the light, I think. I have seen 4100K lights that look reddish, and I've seen 6500K that look more white. Above that things start to look blue. This is from my marine aquarium experience, so take with a grain of salt .
Light technology seems to be making much progress over the last few years, and it's not slowing down. LED's are making big improvements, so they should be considered, especially as the efficiency improves.
I'm just looking for a suitable LCD screen at this point. I'm lost. Any ideas? Sources? Mobile LCDs? Laptop LCDs? I'm clueless. Hopefully somebody will chime in here.
Good luck to everybody with this project. I know I'm late to join the game, but I'm very enthusiastic about it. Please post any progress that you have made.
I'm with Anayet...after all of these post, has anyone had good results? Are there any websites that feature these projects? Vince's and dwalls32's are all I have to go on...thanks guys! Anyone else? Any confirmation of progress will give me motivation, so BRING IT ON!
ANY LCD SOURCES OR IDEAS? POST 'EM!!!
Thanks everybody...have fun with it.,
f4
Here's a link to a website for the Yahoo group. THey don't have much, but you want links...
http://www.painlesswebdesign.com/lcd/
http://www.painlesswebdesign.com/lcd/
RE: Lights - Camera Lights to be precise
You know the type of light that is in a Ordinary Photographic Camera - is it possible to buy one that is just a bit bigger (if required)
How much power do they have?
Cause the flash on a camera is bloody bright (enough to blind you temporarily) - i know it takes the power from batteries and in a way charges it self up to give a powerful burst of power, but if one of those types of Lights were to be used (with the same reflector a camera uses) will that not give an extremely powerful light?
And it shouldn't take too much power either.
The lights should not be that expensive (i think) cause they're even on cheap disposable cameras.
Is this feasible?
What are your views on this?
Anayet
You know the type of light that is in a Ordinary Photographic Camera - is it possible to buy one that is just a bit bigger (if required)
How much power do they have?
Cause the flash on a camera is bloody bright (enough to blind you temporarily
) - i know it takes the power from batteries and in a way charges it self up to give a powerful burst of power, but if one of those types of Lights were to be used (with the same reflector a camera uses) will that not give an extremely powerful light?And it shouldn't take too much power either.
The lights should not be that expensive (i think) cause they're even on cheap disposable cameras.
Is this feasible?
What are your views on this?
Anayet
Useless info?
The gameboy advance has a 2.3" TFT screen, 240x160 resolution, for what it's worth. Course, I have no idea if you can make it play TV yet.
Sorry if this is useless, every little helps.
As for the camera flash, I'm only guessing here, but I reckon it is only bright because of the very high voltage it charges to, discharging over a very short period of time. If you were to constantly apply a high voltage, I reckon it would burn out very quickly.
I reckon the fluorescent tube is indeed a good idea. And just to try to remove confusion on the point-light source thing.....
The fresnel will only work efficiently with a point light source, I think we have had several diagrams about it. But, say you don't use a fresnel, and you just use a light which gives all it's light out over the 5" (say) of the LCD? Will that not be effectively the same as spreading a point light source out over the same area?
Hope this helps.
Chris.
The gameboy advance has a 2.3" TFT screen, 240x160 resolution, for what it's worth. Course, I have no idea if you can make it play TV yet.
Sorry if this is useless, every little helps.
As for the camera flash, I'm only guessing here, but I reckon it is only bright because of the very high voltage it charges to, discharging over a very short period of time. If you were to constantly apply a high voltage, I reckon it would burn out very quickly.
I reckon the fluorescent tube is indeed a good idea. And just to try to remove confusion on the point-light source thing.....
The fresnel will only work efficiently with a point light source, I think we have had several diagrams about it. But, say you don't use a fresnel, and you just use a light which gives all it's light out over the 5" (say) of the LCD? Will that not be effectively the same as spreading a point light source out over the same area?
Hope this helps.
Chris.
I was reading a post on dejanews a while back speaking about using camera flashes. Someone there (and I'll have to find the thread) suggested taking several camera flashes and having them strobe in sucession so their light would appear as one continuous beam, and give longer rests for each individual light.
Hey everybody,
I like the flash idea...it's definitely bright enough, but I would be worried about how long those bulbs can last. I know I've had flash bulbs burn out on me just using it once and a while for my camera. I've read a post (maybe in this thread?) about someone cycling a flash at 50 or 60Hz to make "continuous" light. If not this board, maybe here: http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=006hui
I found a couple of discussion threads that may be useful for the fluorescent idea. They involve overdriving normal output bulbs to near VHO (very high output) levels. Of course, you can expect more heat and shorter bulb life. These sites are from DIY aquaria pages, so just disregard the fish talk. Also, the PC (power compact) lighting would probably be the most applicable to us. The Fluorex bulb is actually a PC bulb. The links are:
Fluorescent Overdrive from reefcentral.com
From aquariumpros.ca...contains some good pics.
The second link with the pictures uses actinic blue bulbs, but the same process could be applied to a lower color temp bulb like we would need. Also, these are the long fluorescents...PC's seem to be the best bet for this approach.
Here's a pic of a Lights of America Fluorex 65W light. The ones I have seen at Home Depot are made for mounting on a wall, but it has the same basic design.
Light
They claim that it produces 6825 lumens at 6500K. Sounds good to me.
Sorry to focus so much on the fluorescent approach, but it's the only lighting I have much experience with, and it is relatively efficent. And as Scot_lad alluded to, it might allow projection without a fresnel.
Happy hunting. And thanks for the link, dwalls32! Every little bit helps.
-f4
I like the flash idea...it's definitely bright enough, but I would be worried about how long those bulbs can last. I know I've had flash bulbs burn out on me just using it once and a while for my camera. I've read a post (maybe in this thread?) about someone cycling a flash at 50 or 60Hz to make "continuous" light. If not this board, maybe here: http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=006hui
I found a couple of discussion threads that may be useful for the fluorescent idea. They involve overdriving normal output bulbs to near VHO (very high output) levels. Of course, you can expect more heat and shorter bulb life. These sites are from DIY aquaria pages, so just disregard the fish talk. Also, the PC (power compact) lighting would probably be the most applicable to us. The Fluorex bulb is actually a PC bulb. The links are:
Fluorescent Overdrive from reefcentral.com
From aquariumpros.ca...contains some good pics.
The second link with the pictures uses actinic blue bulbs, but the same process could be applied to a lower color temp bulb like we would need. Also, these are the long fluorescents...PC's seem to be the best bet for this approach.
Here's a pic of a Lights of America Fluorex 65W light. The ones I have seen at Home Depot are made for mounting on a wall, but it has the same basic design.
Light
They claim that it produces 6825 lumens at 6500K. Sounds good to me.
Sorry to focus so much on the fluorescent approach, but it's the only lighting I have much experience with, and it is relatively efficent. And as Scot_lad alluded to, it might allow projection without a fresnel.
Happy hunting. And thanks for the link, dwalls32! Every little bit helps.
-f4
Fender4
I'm using the Fluorex light from "Lights of America" for my light source.
It isin't set as a point light, it's being used a hell-of-a bright backlight for a 5" LCD which is mounted very close to a Delta IV projection lens.
This setup acts works a lot like the original CRT setup. Maybe not as bright as the crt, but not bad.
I dissambled a standard 5" LCD (NTSC) and used adhesive to mount it to a sheet of glass. Then taped off the area of the LCD and painted the rest black to block out any light that wasn't part of the LCD. Once this was done I mounted the glass directly behind the DELTA IV. The tests so far seem to work ok. I need to rebuild the box to get the correct fit for the Fluorex, and also need to purchase another LCD.
I'm using the Fluorex light from "Lights of America" for my light source.
It isin't set as a point light, it's being used a hell-of-a bright backlight for a 5" LCD which is mounted very close to a Delta IV projection lens.
This setup acts works a lot like the original CRT setup. Maybe not as bright as the crt, but not bad.
I dissambled a standard 5" LCD (NTSC) and used adhesive to mount it to a sheet of glass. Then taped off the area of the LCD and painted the rest black to block out any light that wasn't part of the LCD. Once this was done I mounted the glass directly behind the DELTA IV. The tests so far seem to work ok. I need to rebuild the box to get the correct fit for the Fluorex, and also need to purchase another LCD.
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