DIY Video Projector

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LCD resolutions

I have been looking at small LCD panels the last day or two and I look at some of the figures of the LCD's and they dont make sense. Dwalls32 LCD it states "Resolution (dots): 960V x 234V=224,640" what does the "V" stand for? i did a calculation comparing the dot pitch measurements "Dot Pitch (mm): .138 W x .416 H" so each pixels height is three times its width, but why do they put that other figure in there "960V x 234V" ???

Also another thing to look out for is if the manufactureer is stating the RGB measurement or pixel measurement as shown below as they can make it look as if theres three times as many dots as there actually is, I saw on a site where they stated 1024 x 768 x RGB, so that meant that each colour pixel is counted, you can see an example below where it is done.


http://www.sharp.net.au/product_sales/lcdproj/xgv10we.htm

Number of pixels 3,932,160 pixels (1,310,721 dots x 3, in stripe pixel arrangement).

I hope I havent confused anyone.... if so, sorry.
 
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That's pretty much what I tested with first. The one I bought from P.Ex. had a switch to reverse the image, which was nice. The resolution was the same, and just about everything else.

It looked ok, but you can't use a line doubler to reduce the screen effect. This is because it only has a composite input. There was pixelation with the unit I used, you might get used to it, you might not.

Vince
 
yep, the higher the better, my current projector is 640 x 480 and puts out 300 ANSI lumens, so if I do this project i will be aiming for an upgrade in every area. 640 x 480 is good but 1280 x 1024 is much better, I may have to spend some money for the project but I am willing to do so because if I dont I will have to spend $5,000 or more someday to get a better projector than my current one and I will probably still not be happy. and I can always upgrade if the LED's are really good in a few years and the LCD technology is going to get better and cheaper so its a win/win situation. If it dosent work i can use the LCD in my car and have a nice lighting system in my house or try to use them as a replacement for my headlights. :)

Now all I have to do is email all the LCD manufacturers and try to get hold of an actual LCD that is used for projectors because someone is making lots of them.... somewhere....
 
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d-

Go to my web site. I think I have a link for Hammer Head technologies, or do a Google. They have a couple of panels for sale at good prices. From $125 to $275 if I remember correctly. Also, I got mine from projector central for $150, with S-video inputs and computer inputs that can be used with component outs from DVDs, if it is physically converted correctly.

V-

Correction, I don't have links for those 2 sites yet. Do a search.
 
Today I learned that we have a word for fluorescent in our language, I didn't know that so this makes everything much easier, so I'm now trying to find non loa-light but equally good.
The 70w fluorescent at farnell actually has just about as much lumens (6550) than the LOA one but the color temp is 4000K, so what does this color temp mean then? It's not "white" ?
Although I don't know if my "furniture" setup really does give a **** of how hot the light source gets since it's probably easier to cool than your compact designs, so I would actually like this one:
Osram Vialox NAV Super 400W (highpressure natrium lamp, when translated by myself), life 24000 hours, 56500(!) lumens, only problem being the color temp 2000K (whatever that means then) and price probably more than my car, I didn't find the price (yet), since it's in different place than the technical specs.

How much heat can fresnel and lcd stand then btw?

Okay, basicly I'm now just doing just research and unpatiently waiting to get some f*****g money from my work to start buying some stuff.

Can a wooden box used be for housing or will it burn up? This would be easier since I could possibly make one my self but metal one I have to put someone else to do it for me.

One more thing, if not IR then what about UV?

And yet one more thing... How do you perform your test without destroying your eyes since I'm at least finding it bit hard to perform the tests without having any eye contacts to the lightsource.? My eyes are killing me and I can't basicly see **** when I'm finished with my tests.

Okay...
 
IR and UV

UV can apparently be stopped by ordinary glass or plastic, so don't worry about that. But I doubt these types of lights would do much harm to the LCD in terms of UV.

What you make your box out of depends on the light. Wood tends to insulate more than metal, and is more at risk of catching fire, but if your light isn't too hot then that won't matter. Metal will conduct electricity from stray cables though, while wood won't. As for the heat issue, metal would get really hot with a hot light and then pass the heat onto whatever it's sitting on (or hanging from).

Why don't you get sunglasses?! Or maybe welder's goggles? They'll stop the really bright light getting through but you'll be able to see nothing else than that I suppose.

Cheers,

Chris.
 
LCD's used in projectors

Hi, I have watched this board for a long time and am close to starting my projector.
Andrew the LCD's used in the projectors are not available in North America at least not from Epson or Sony which manufacture the best ones available. I have spoken with my distributors who carry the sony and epson semiconductor lines and those lcd's are only available if you are a large OEM with the resources to manufacture, in the thousands, the device that you use the lcd's for. They also require that you have plenty if money backing you up so that you don't go bankrupt before paying for the LCD's :(

So unless anyone in here owns an oem or has plenty of money to start one and submit the engineering drawings and everything else that Sony and Epson require it is very unlikely that we will get access to those LCD's

Sorry that my first post is all bad news:(

I'll see if I can find where I put the information and the links I had and post them in case someone wants to know what the commercial versions are using.

PS These companies only manufacture monochrome lcd's for projection with resolutions in the UXGA range
 
thanks

thanks for the bad news, well atleast i wont waste my time looking for it then, info atleast will be good, yeah so sure, post away!




I thought of something else today, why not go down to your local home theatre store and check out some of their porjectors and find out the specs on them, see if there are any factors that make a big diffrence to what you want eg. contrast ratio, native resoloution ANSI lumens etc. etc.

So you know what to aim for.
 
gmshroll said:
10% would definitely make sense... This talk of 10,000 lumens bulbs giving 1000 lumens projectors definitely ties in maths wise!

Using this rough logic, the Lights of America jobbie should give a fairly health 600lumens projector... Has anyone experimented with overloading(?) these for more light? Perhaps 2 of them in a parabolic/mirrored case + fresnel would give 1200lumens then?

Thats something to look forward to!

Graham

Graham,

I think the 10% is very accurate. I have done the 2-fer with the fluorex and I should say the brightness is OK if you are viewing with a reasonable amount of ambient light, perfect in a completely darkened room; I will be adding a 3rd fluorex lamp soon - my goal is to replace my TV set, so I need daytime viewing. I stripped down the lamps and made my own dual parabolic reflector from soft aluminum sheets.
I am not using any fan and the heat output of the dual fluorex is more than I expected; the sucker gets real hot. My model is housed in an old 100" TV paper box so may be I am just being too picky about the heat output. Anyway, I am planning to add a fan to cool the lamps.
I am using a commercial 5"x7" panel which does not appear bothered by the heat output of the fluorex.

Now, if I can figure out how to channel all the light output from the fluorex to the lcd, I will move from the proto stage and start building the real thing. I am afraid to used a fresnel because of the high heat output.
 
LCD sources

In my never-ending search for a suitable LCD, I came across these.

1.8" LCD (PDF file)

I'm not that experienced with LCD technology, but it seems like the smaller the pixels, the better (as long as the resolution is resonable). This one seems to fit that description, and the small size makes it a good candidate for various lens systems. They are sold through Allied Electronics (another PDF file) as the 769-0102 for $94.58 USD. Any ideas? One thing to note is that it only includes RGB input as opposed to composite. Also, can it be removed from its backing? I don't know.

Other LCDs from this manufacturer can be found here. Most of these are sold at the www.alliedelec.com site. I was just intrigued by the pixel and display size of the 1.8" model.

Also, for anyone that is new to the board, I found the threads here to be very informative:

http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=006hui

I hope all of the links work. Good luck, and let me know what you think about these LCD's!

-f4
 
Also see mars-cam.com They do both a 1.8" and 2.5" like this one. I have the 2.5" and the backlight was VERY easy to remove... it was just stuck on with squashytape.

The pixel size is not the main concern, as you are going to be magnifying them anyway! Rather the NUMBER of pixels (the 480x234 bit). This sounds very low, but I can honestly say that this sort of resolution is more than adequate for video.
 
Well... The tests I've done have been with R2 DVDs. (so around 600 lines I guess)

The only downside to the panel I can see so far is the reproduction of text. Mind you, this could be because I'm trying to read text that's less than a millimetre in size! The test will be when its on the wall!

The contrast of the panel seems much better than the Alpine monitor I've got in my car, too... so we'll see!
 
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