Yes very good looking. Do you remove the grills for serious listening sessions or have you found them to be transparent enough? My thought is about the edge diffraction on the full range might cause some sound quality issues. No math or modeling to look at this. Just going by all the effort in this post about flush mounting.
And HEY the reason I'm asking is because those covers look great!
Jeremy
And HEY the reason I'm asking is because those covers look great!
Jeremy
No problems 😊 I have also thought of the diffraction issue, but when I listen serious, they are removed as well as the soeakers themselves are moved out in the room to their designated place. The covers are mostly to protect them from itchy childrens fingers. One week ago, a friend of my daughter pushed the center in on one tweeter... Luckily, it could be pulled out again with some tape... The covers are in place with magnets so they are very easily to remove for me, at least. I have not had the time for experiments or tests yet to see if they colour the sound.
😊
Hey Jogunast. Did you end up keeping the 47uf on C1? I somehow missed this post (or forgot about it) when I made my 3-way and it still has the 30uF from the schematic. I can easily add a parallel ~15-18uf to C1 if needed. I am using a Vifa XT25 instead of the SB29 but they seem to be super close on specs and I made my crossovers with easily replaceable resistors for easy tweaking.
Here's mine. I built it with (hopefully) dual crossovers so I can pick the regular 2-way Ultra build or use Jogunast's 3-way as desired. I used speaker push terminals to allow for super easy resistor changes. And yes, both crossovers share the 18mH inductor. While one side of the crossover is in use, the other side remains open on both the grounds and the speaker terminals so it (I assume) won't affect the active side. I'm guessing since my frame was designed with the 3-way in mind (and the 18mH inductor instead of the 20), it'll end up with more midbass than the Mazanita Ultras. It is breaking in now, maybe 10-12 hours on it at this point. With just a few min of listening and no specific room placement you can already tell there is a detailed center image with depth. Listening from around the corner, they sound stunning though, Frank Sinatra sounded closer to a person than other speakers I own, and some of them cost several times what these cost. It's kind of amazing what comes out of those 3.5" vifas, and missing the box hehe.
Wow, it really looks good.
I'm curious how they sound after break-in and with proper placement.
--
Wow, a landmark day for this thread. We have passed one million views!
Thanks to John Busch for this speaker design and all the folks who have come here to read, comment and build this simple and effective design. It was John who gave me the heads-up on the milestone, he will post later today.
This is one of the most viewed build threads on diyAudio. Thanks everyone.
I have read this entire thread and stayed with it since the beginning. Quickly wanted to thank John for all his work and contributions, you will be missed.
What I am having trouble with is deciding which model to make. My house is pretty small, they would go in a ~10x20x7 carpeted basement living room powered by an Emotiva XPA-2 amp, I am after the best sounding version and finding the below options:
Peerless 16.5"x27" baffle (most recent post 2500-2502)
GRS 18.5"x29" baffle (most recent post 2500-2502)
Ultra 24"x48" baffle (most recent build list?)
Ultra Plus using two 15" GRS (hard to find info and a recent build list, maybe this was more of an experiment)
Another hurdle I am finding would be getting the Peerless woofer in the US. Parts-Express states out of stock with a 100 min buy.
Thanks
What I am having trouble with is deciding which model to make. My house is pretty small, they would go in a ~10x20x7 carpeted basement living room powered by an Emotiva XPA-2 amp, I am after the best sounding version and finding the below options:
Peerless 16.5"x27" baffle (most recent post 2500-2502)
GRS 18.5"x29" baffle (most recent post 2500-2502)
Ultra 24"x48" baffle (most recent build list?)
Ultra Plus using two 15" GRS (hard to find info and a recent build list, maybe this was more of an experiment)
Another hurdle I am finding would be getting the Peerless woofer in the US. Parts-Express states out of stock with a 100 min buy.
Thanks
Hey everyone. So I started listening to the speakers last night, as 2-ways, but the midrange/vifa is SOO forward sounding, it is quite unbalanced, like something is wrong. I am using the standard Ultra crossover schematic values. I did try increasing the 15ohm to 18 with no appreciable change. I'm pretty sure from reading on here that is not how it is supposed to sound so I am wondering if there is any chance the 3-way crossover is interfering with the 2-way? Basically Jogunast's 3-way from post 2757 on page 138 is sharing the big woofer inductor so both crossovers are connected via the positive terminal from the amp at all times. On the unused side, the grounds are disconnected and the speaker terminals are disconnected, as in open circuit/un-terminated. I assumed under those conditions, the unused crossover side would be non-interfering.
I don't want to pull the crossover boards out and unsolder the 3 way positive side yet so I am asking for thoughts first.
I don't want to pull the crossover boards out and unsolder the 3 way positive side yet so I am asking for thoughts first.
So, some (potentially) silly Qs...
I have the rear mounted Vifa, and hollowed out the back of the panel and rounded the edge. It’s about 5-6mm thick now with about 6mm radius on the round over. I’m plotting my final build and I‘m wondering, do I need to go thinner or change the edge to improve the opening. Or, do I attempt to remove the gasket and front mount (with it countersunk)? I’m just a bit worried by the finish with the later.
Also with regard the Peerless, do I need to worry about countersinking that (on the front)? It looks like 1mm then the flange flairs up. I think this is probably more aesthetic than anything else.
And finally. Is there any recommended practice on fixing the crossover coils? I’ve variously seen glue and zip ties, the latter seems best incase I want to change stuff in the future. Are there any layout considerations?
I have these on chairs in my office, loosening up when on not on Teams and I am so impressed even with the ‘not even set up’ position. The bass is wonderful and the treble better than my full rangers.
I have the rear mounted Vifa, and hollowed out the back of the panel and rounded the edge. It’s about 5-6mm thick now with about 6mm radius on the round over. I’m plotting my final build and I‘m wondering, do I need to go thinner or change the edge to improve the opening. Or, do I attempt to remove the gasket and front mount (with it countersunk)? I’m just a bit worried by the finish with the later.
Also with regard the Peerless, do I need to worry about countersinking that (on the front)? It looks like 1mm then the flange flairs up. I think this is probably more aesthetic than anything else.
And finally. Is there any recommended practice on fixing the crossover coils? I’ve variously seen glue and zip ties, the latter seems best incase I want to change stuff in the future. Are there any layout considerations?
I have these on chairs in my office, loosening up when on not on Teams and I am so impressed even with the ‘not even set up’ position. The bass is wonderful and the treble better than my full rangers.