MarkAudio CHP-90 Enclosure Options

Thanks Dave for the suggestion! and also to you GM!
Elias I didn't get the message w/out comment :/ and even don't know if it was for me or not... OK btw!!!
Today I started from zero a new build, the easiest 14L front slotted, with a wider baffle than before, and after multiple tests with the length of the port and also playing a bit with the stuffing! yeah! :) I got something much better than ever before and almost satisfying!
Let's see if some more fine tuning will make them perfect as I want them! ;)
 
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As you can understand it is not permuted to upload a copy of the magazine. But I believe it is "OK" to point you to a possible solution that I will follow when I will start mess with the driver installed (delivered 2 hours ago). Certainly the efficiency of the speaker will decrease, but for the sake of linearity, so those "valleys" will hopefully be "leveled out". it's a matter of compromise. I give something expecting to get something that I consider more important

Elias
 
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Tomorrow I will cut the first test box. Material : 9mm thick chipboard.
Internal dimensions H : 335mm W : 190mm D : 220mm
Test amplifier a D-class 5W/4Ohm at 5V till drivers "break" . 50 hours ? 100 hours. I don't know.
Driver (s) : on the front surface (CHP + P830880)
Elias
Oh Elias great! Happy that finally someone else is on them!;))
My box is actually 21x18x40 cm (internal), front vent 1,8x13
The CHP-90 are powered by an Aiyima T9 that has the sub out so there I connected the Fosi Audio BT20A that powers the RS100-4!
This way it is rather easy to switch from listening to CHP90 alone and then "add" the RS100 and you can really hear it when they ore on...
So curious to see what you think about it! and absolutely also waiting for LeifB60 that can compare with other MA FR!
 
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Oh Elias great! Happy that finally someone else is on them!;))
My box is actually 21x18x40 cm (internal), front vent 1,8x13
The CHP-90 are powered by an Aiyima T9 that has the sub out so there I connected the Fosi Audio BT20A that powers the RS100-4!
This way it is rather easy to switch from listening to CHP90 alone and then "add" the RS100 and you can really hear it when they ore on...
So curious to see what you think about it! and absolutely also waiting for LeifB60 that can compare with other MA FR!
15 litre and shape on vent?
How deep?
 
The slot you mean? Incomplete numbers earlier... I've made the front slot on full width 21cm x 1.8cm x 13cm deep
After that I try make it smaller just adding some 1.8cm pieces of MDF so it become double slotted 2x (6x1.8x13) or also a single smaller 13x1.8x13 by adding 2 pieces of mdf on the sides...
And I listen and try evaluate what's best!
I found useful this vid to check how, especially the 80hz comes out changing the slot size!
One speaker with one size slot the other different


I've decided to wait for yours and Elias build and review/opinions and then, as said, I will eventually send them back and take the Alpair 10.3 or the MAOP (7 or 10) or maybe some ??TB 5"??
I like to "play" with this things but can't even stay months! before having the new good sound system that I want!!! ;)
 
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250Hz tone is written as badly as possible. I'm hearing crackle from the desktop speakers I'm using at the moment (they reproduce 80Hz satisfactorily for 2.5" ) & I resorted to my headphones where I just confirmed that the 250Hz has crackle. Also 80Hz are recorded ....:smash: (there is a Greek expression but it is not proper for public discussions)
.....let it be.
As for the drivers.... no one grabbed me by the throat to force me to buy them. At my 67y.o. , it is not appropriate, nor justified to shift my responsibility.

Elias
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Aiyima T9

1_7_1024x1024.jpg


Cute little amplifier. 2 Pentodes likey startved for B+. TPA3221 Class D amplifiers. What is the voltage supplied by the brick? That wll determine potental power.

dave
 
Yep is nice! The standard brick included was 108W (24x4.5A) but I took a little bigger 144W (24x6A). Can't complain!
For such a small price... there is also a sub/line out, the optical in where I send the audio from TV and the remote!

By the way .. have you ever think to add any BSC (Baffle Step Correction L // R // C ) ?
No, I didn't... maybe an idea! I'll see!
About that 250Hz tone u're right! very strange sound!
 
24v, someone who knows the math, 100w claimed with 32 V, i expect 24 v is going to be closer to 25 w.

dave
I prefer jfets. very reliable structural elements that do not age & exhibit exceptionally tighter (than tubes) tolerances. In some old issue of myCQ magazine (from 1957 or 1959 that I inherited from my father) I had firstly read about replacing the pentodes by 1 jfet (mpf102 if I recall correctly) + 1 transistor to reduce consumption.

Dave do you suggest any BSC for an enclosure with such a limited baffle ?

Elias
 
frugal-phile™
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jFETs over tubes? Done right can be really close to a good triode and certainly more reliable.

BSC can be dealt with many ways, of the say, a thousand speakers Chris & i did only 1 ever had a passive BSC ciruit and that was lost after switching from the surplus specials to SEAS FA22.

Design & execution is important.

dave
 
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