Hi Soundhappy
I have actually built a version of the original SLOB project with the (6) Peerless W8-12T 12 P buyout drivers per channel.
Because of space constraints it was scaled down quite a bit.
I had hoped the (6) 91.5dB Peerless drivers would perform well enough with front horns I had been playing with if I used some ROTEL HT amps bridged to about 110 watts to drive them.
Unfortunately due to a combination of factors I never was able to get the results I wanted.
The fullrange driver in the front horn had very high sensitivity. Even when I got close to matching levels by turning up the bass compensation all the way on my B5 the Peerless bass panels just didn’t deliver the mid bass impact that I needed them to.
I tried putting a bandaid on it by adding a subwoofer, but ultimately I was not satisfied because of the lack of midbass and the fact that the bass reflex sub sounded boomy to me.
I have not gotten rid of the panels. I thought perhaps another try with the hypex amps and a smaller 3” or 4” fullrange driver with lower sensitivity might be an interesting experiment.
I have my revised OB panels with the Lii Crystal 10 up and working now.
I had previously tried these panels with a few drivers and spent a bit of time with Tang Band W8-1808 drivers in them. Ultimately, the TBs were to muted and inefficient for my ears.
I did just a little tweaking of the B5 by ear and I can immediately say there is more than enough clean and impactful mid-bass and bass for me. They play low enough that I am not compelled to even consider turning a sub on.
I have had to dial back the bass compensation a few times as I’ve sat and listened the last few hours.
They are by no means set up properly as I have too much stuff jammed into my living room due to renovations elsewhere in the house.
I would still like to try some even higher efficiency drivers with horns for mid and upper frequencies. That would put me in the position of using dual 18” AE Dipoles and have me reconsidering a slot loaded application.
I have actually built a version of the original SLOB project with the (6) Peerless W8-12T 12 P buyout drivers per channel.
Because of space constraints it was scaled down quite a bit.
I had hoped the (6) 91.5dB Peerless drivers would perform well enough with front horns I had been playing with if I used some ROTEL HT amps bridged to about 110 watts to drive them.
Unfortunately due to a combination of factors I never was able to get the results I wanted.
The fullrange driver in the front horn had very high sensitivity. Even when I got close to matching levels by turning up the bass compensation all the way on my B5 the Peerless bass panels just didn’t deliver the mid bass impact that I needed them to.
I tried putting a bandaid on it by adding a subwoofer, but ultimately I was not satisfied because of the lack of midbass and the fact that the bass reflex sub sounded boomy to me.
I have not gotten rid of the panels. I thought perhaps another try with the hypex amps and a smaller 3” or 4” fullrange driver with lower sensitivity might be an interesting experiment.
I have my revised OB panels with the Lii Crystal 10 up and working now.
I had previously tried these panels with a few drivers and spent a bit of time with Tang Band W8-1808 drivers in them. Ultimately, the TBs were to muted and inefficient for my ears.
I did just a little tweaking of the B5 by ear and I can immediately say there is more than enough clean and impactful mid-bass and bass for me. They play low enough that I am not compelled to even consider turning a sub on.
I have had to dial back the bass compensation a few times as I’ve sat and listened the last few hours.
They are by no means set up properly as I have too much stuff jammed into my living room due to renovations elsewhere in the house.
I would still like to try some even higher efficiency drivers with horns for mid and upper frequencies. That would put me in the position of using dual 18” AE Dipoles and have me reconsidering a slot loaded application.
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Hi Chromenuts
Looks like you have good time with your DIY build speakers.
Great work congratulations
Original Slot dimensions are made for 8" and 15" drivers
I think is important to keep the same proportion but
extend wood panels size if use of 10" and 18" drivers.
How much exactly ~ 25% more or less ?
Maybe Mr. Pass can answer with guide line ?
Looks like you have good time with your DIY build speakers.
Great work congratulations
Original Slot dimensions are made for 8" and 15" drivers
I think is important to keep the same proportion but
extend wood panels size if use of 10" and 18" drivers.
How much exactly ~ 25% more or less ?
Maybe Mr. Pass can answer with guide line ?
strange is quite open for what I read...maybe vs horn is hard to win , but can you tell about Crystal 10 ? tnx
AE goes up quite well .
@soundhappy for what I remember.... max 30% I hopes
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Hi Soundhappy and nicoch58
I haven’t decided yet which way I want to go concerning a build that would require more bass support.
I have been trying things for a while now and consider slot loading as in the design being discussed in this thread one of the options that might have the ability to accomplish my needs.
The (6) 8” woofer version didn’t accomplish what I wanted as I built it. I had considered trying to rework it into a sort of “U” baffle so as to get more out of it, but it seemed that a larger driver was what I really needed.
The conflict for me is trying to get the low frequency support with a reasonable footprint...not a unique situation at all I think.
If you look at post #23 of this thread you’ll see I even tried two 18” AE Dipole drivers bolted face to face in a push pull configuration. Unfortunately, I appear to have damaged a driver exceeding xmax (best guess).
I also made a few comments about the Crystal 10 drivers used baffle-less. I don’t want to derail the topic of the thread completely so I won’t repeat what’s already there.
I have a lot more listening, tweaking and comparing to do I think before I have any definite opinions about using these drivers with this smaller baffle setup (22”X32”).
I like the idea of trying to make things modular...and so I’ve been sorting a way to build a slot chamber that this baffle could be added to the top of.
I haven’t decided yet which way I want to go concerning a build that would require more bass support.
I have been trying things for a while now and consider slot loading as in the design being discussed in this thread one of the options that might have the ability to accomplish my needs.
The (6) 8” woofer version didn’t accomplish what I wanted as I built it. I had considered trying to rework it into a sort of “U” baffle so as to get more out of it, but it seemed that a larger driver was what I really needed.
The conflict for me is trying to get the low frequency support with a reasonable footprint...not a unique situation at all I think.
If you look at post #23 of this thread you’ll see I even tried two 18” AE Dipole drivers bolted face to face in a push pull configuration. Unfortunately, I appear to have damaged a driver exceeding xmax (best guess).
I also made a few comments about the Crystal 10 drivers used baffle-less. I don’t want to derail the topic of the thread completely so I won’t repeat what’s already there.
I have a lot more listening, tweaking and comparing to do I think before I have any definite opinions about using these drivers with this smaller baffle setup (22”X32”).
I like the idea of trying to make things modular...and so I’ve been sorting a way to build a slot chamber that this baffle could be added to the top of.
Worth replacements for my Lowther PM6A w/ 16 ohm silver VC.
Through a stroke of luck the Neo arrived unannounced, as the original design and order were for the Magus. I do wonder how the more efficient magus would sound and preform. By any chance you have had the chance to compare?
Hi all,
I'd try to build the Opamp version of cross/eq for SLOBs suggested by Papa in his first version article:
As there're three buffers and a 6dB voltage gain stage, I thought to one OPA1612 (only components in surface mount) per channel: good/bad choice? Would it be enough a filtered wall SMPS or better go for linear PSU?
I'd try to build the Opamp version of cross/eq for SLOBs suggested by Papa in his first version article:
As there're three buffers and a 6dB voltage gain stage, I thought to one OPA1612 (only components in surface mount) per channel: good/bad choice?
Would it be enough a filtered wall SMPS or better go for linear PSU?
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Neo v Magus
The Magus tends to be a little leading-edge centric (over-damped). The Neo is a much better balanced design. I do find that, when proper wire is used (such as the dueland copper-tin) the Magus becomes a very balanced driver and the differences become more subtle. The Neo is still the better imaging, better sounding driver.
The Magus tends to be a little leading-edge centric (over-damped). The Neo is a much better balanced design. I do find that, when proper wire is used (such as the dueland copper-tin) the Magus becomes a very balanced driver and the differences become more subtle. The Neo is still the better imaging, better sounding driver.
@ peppe
just ignore
there are days when everything is funny to me
in fact, there are hardly days not being like that
or, should I write - all roads are leading to Rome ?
No road here to Rome: there's the Tyrrhenian Sea in between
Yup