I have seen that connector on tiny Arduino WiFi boards. Don’t know what they are called though. I would use the on board antenna. Just make sure you don’t have a sealed metal box. If this goes in an active speaker cabinet that should not be a problem.
Were you able to get the software to work?
Were you able to get the software to work?
The program I got from the seller on AliExpress.
I even contacted more than one seller and got it sent to me from both. This was for the v1.
When I bought the 2.1 v I asked again and they said that they already sent the software before. And they were right, it detects the board and changed with options were available in the software.
I even contacted more than one seller and got it sent to me from both. This was for the v1.
When I bought the 2.1 v I asked again and they said that they already sent the software before. And they were right, it detects the board and changed with options were available in the software.
I couldn’t edit my response.
On your board you have the sdk version v0.0.2.
The stereo only have V0.2.0. Whatever this means..
As soon as the program detects the board the program tells you at the bottom what is connected. So before you connected the board you can’t fiddle with the program
On your board you have the sdk version v0.0.2.
The stereo only have V0.2.0. Whatever this means..
As soon as the program detects the board the program tells you at the bottom what is connected. So before you connected the board you can’t fiddle with the program
Attachments
This is quite handy I suppose.
Reading the blurb, the slave amp needs to have the line in enable link removed to work in this way.
Presumably one could remove said link, in any amp of that type (using that particular IC)
That being said, my mobile music streamer can connect to 2 BT outputs simultaneously.
So, couldn't I achieve the same ends?
It would kind of seem that way. I'll have to try it with the 4 or so different BT boards and amps I've got.
if you get the software from seller it is an interesting cheap little board and Nissep did get the software, but some of the reviews do mention some sellers do not react any more for the software???
The seller just sent me a link to download the software. I’ll check it out and report back. I’m glad they didn’t just ghost me. 
Can someone tell me what the Chinese markings on the two 3.5mm jacks is? The bottom says “Aux”. I assume that is the aux (non BT) input? The others are Ch 1 (left) and Ch 2 (right)? How does the sub .1 output work? Or is Aux same as sub output?
Can someone tell me what the Chinese markings on the two 3.5mm jacks is? The bottom says “Aux”. I assume that is the aux (non BT) input? The others are Ch 1 (left) and Ch 2 (right)? How does the sub .1 output work? Or is Aux same as sub output?
Apparently I-PEX and Amphenol claim compatability between I-PEX MHF, Hirose U.FL, and Amphenol AMC Connectors. Then Hirose also has the smaller w.FL connectors, and I-PEX apparently has a whole line as well.
u.FL w.FL
https://www.mouser.com/pdfDocs/Hirose_PTM_UFL_WFL.pdf
https://www.hirose.com/product/docu...menttype=Catalog&lang=en&documentid=D31665_en
https://www.everythingrf.com/community/what-are-u-fl-connectors
https://www.data-alliance.net/ufl-cables/
U.FL connectors from the Hirose Electric Group are similar to and compatible with other miniature surface-mount RF coaxial connectors developed by I-PEX (MHF Connectors) and Amphenol (AMC Connectors). ... height from the board after mating a receptacle with a plug of less than 2.5 mm, and a mounting area of 3.0 × 3.1 mm. ... designed for limited mating cycles (usually up to 30) before replacement is needed.
https://www.everythingrf.com/community/what-are-i-pex-mhf-connectors
https://www.data-alliance.net/mhf-series-mhf1-mhf3-mhf4/
https://www.i-pex.com/sites/default/files/downloads/pdf/CATALOG_MHF_4L(1.2 mm)_E.pdf
https://www.i-pex.com/sites/default/files/downloads/pdf/CATALOG_MHF_7S_E.pdf
I-PEX MHF were designed as an alternative to U.FL connectors (developed by the Hirose Electrical Group) and AMC Connectors (developed by Amphenol). ... They feature a nominal mated height of 2.5 mm max and have a small mounting area of 3 x 3.1 mm. ... is compatible with U.FL connectors (Hirose) and AMC connectors (Amphenol). ... But now there are several RF connectors available like MHF37, MHF II/MHF2, MHF III/MHF 3, and MHF IV/MHF4.
https://www.everythingrf.com/community/what-are-amc-connectors
Amphenol Micro Coaxial (AMC) Connectors are similar to and compatible with U.FL (Hirose) and I-PEX MHF connectors. ... requires an area of only 3 x 3 mm and has a height of 2.5 mm when mated. ... 100% compatible with U.FL and I-PEX MHF Connector Interfaces
https://www.data-alliance.net/wfl-cables/
W.FL Connectors ... only 55% of the size of the U.FL connector series ... occupies a mounting area of 3.4 mm square and is extremely lightweight, with a fully mated height of only 1.4mm. ... The PCB-mounted W.FL receptacle has dimensions of 2 mm (length) by 2mm (width) and a height of 0.85 mm. ... It is only rated for 20 mating cycles.
Didn't cross check with YANDEX or BING, but Google Lens says:
Left side:
top: 立体声 输出 stereo output
middle: 低音 输出 Bass output
Bottom: AUX 输入 AUX input
Top Holes:
Under "RGLX": 音频输出 Audio output
Under "V- V+": 电源5V Power supply 5V
Next to QR code: 资料联系 Information contact
Bottom holes:
Left: AUX 输入 AUX input
Middle Right: 外接按键 External key
I`m sitting here with headphones in the output and fiddling.
The above is correct. The middle is a output with summed L+R and low passed at 300Hz.
But I have not been able to write to the permanent memory yet. Live changes to "Effect list 3 Rec pre eq" effects this mono output.
The stop sign is a multi key, when connected to ground with a simple wire will change the input mode, unclear yet on how.
Double clicking, Tripple clicking and long press all have different effects.
3s hold on two boards that is not connected to any Bluetooth device will make them enter TWS mode.
Yes by pulling these different outputs to ground (momentary and hold) you can change volume, stop, play on the connected bluetooth device. And the stop buttom is for changing input type from USB to bluetooth, entering TWS (three second hold on both boards at the same time).
I haven`t damaged the board by using a single wire (no resistor) yet.
I haven`t damaged the board by using a single wire (no resistor) yet.
This quote is from a review of the Nvarcher TPA3118 board I previously linked to...
"I initially used ACPWorkbench from Arylic which worked but has has issue to save data. Later seller point out to another one. For whom it concerns save command is A5 5A FD 00 16".
They don't mention what the other program is though.
Also, here's a TPA3255 board I just found with the same DSP chip...
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804402331203.html?
Excellent price if it functions properly.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804402331203.html?
Excellent price if it functions properly.